AVS Forum banner
1 - 20 of 33 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
179 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am interested in getting a basic system for my TV, simply to enhance the crappy TV's speakers. I am not looking for an amazingly sounding setup. But a decent sounding one.


I am looking at pairing a decent budget sub w/ a soundbar. Its a vizio VSB200 soundbar...which has a line out for a sub as well.

My other option is to buy the JVC BA1 soundbar which everyone in the soundbar section loves (comes w/ a wireless sub).


vizio = 100$

BA1 = 230$


So, I am looking to pair the vizio w/ a sub and put it at the 200$ price point or lower.


After reading as much as I could in this forum, most of you think the Sony 2500 10" sub is crap as well as the polk PSW10.


It seems many of you like BIC 1020 which is a bit out of my price range.

So, I came upon these 2 I think its between:

The dayton SUB80 or BIC V80.


I dont really care about how low it can go, I care that it can do higher frequencies alright, cuz I believe the soundbar crossover is somewhere at 150hz or something.

So, I am wanting a semi clean sounding bass capable of those higher frequencies and also pull off some 30-40hz clean bass as well.


So, based on what brands you guys liked I picked those 2 subs.


Which one if it were between those, and knowing what I want, would you guys pick?

Any other recommendations as well?


Thanks much!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
109 Posts
That's a tough price point and tough requirements to match. I cannot recommend one or the other because you want them to reach higher in frequency than they ought to and may be able to, exacerbated by both being ported designs (necessary to get the most bang for buck from the low wattage amps), which means they won't roll off well up high or down low.


Is there any possibility of saving up for longer and getting a sealed sub?


Of the two you mentioned, I'd probably choose the BIC.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
179 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by vitocorleone /forum/post/19568682


That's a tough price point and tough requirements to match. I cannot recommend one or the other because you want them to reach higher in frequency than they ought to and may be able to, exacerbated by both being ported designs (necessary to get the most bang for buck from the low wattage amps), which means they won't roll off well up high or down low.


Is there any possibility of saving up for longer and getting a sealed sub?


Of the two you mentioned, I'd probably choose the BIC.

So, are you meaning to say that ported designs are generally sloppier bass?

Also, what prices are we talking for a decent yet budget sealed sub?


For comparison these are the specs on the JVC BA1 wireless sub included with the soundbar:

Type 6-5/16" (16cm) Cone, Bass-Reflex

Powered Yes

Power Handling Capacity/Impedance 100W/3 ohms

Frequency Range 45Hz - 5kHz

Sound Pressure Level 82dB/W.m

Power Requirements AC 120V, 60Hz

Power Consumption

Power On 30W

Standby 0.95W

Dimensions (W x H x D)

inches 8-1/2 x 13-7/8 x 10

mm 215 x 352 x 254

Weight

lbs. 11.1

kg 5.0


People on this forum in the soundbar section love the sound this sub puts out, one guy said it was the most responsive / clean / tight sounding bass hes heard from a sub like this.


--

How you think it would compare to the bic v80 you chose out of the 2 I chose?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,938 Posts

Quote:
Originally Posted by GenTarkin /forum/post/19568987


So, are you meaning to say that ported designs are generally sloppier bass?

Not necessarily sloppier, but when you hit the edge of the frequency response range, the dropoff in volume is way more noticeable on a ported design. It's like the sub hits a wall.


At more normal crossovers, like 80hz, it's not as noticeable on the high end as the speakers tend to take over, and is really only a problem on the lower end if the sub isn't as capable. However, at a 150hz crossover, a cheap ported sub is going to struggle with higher frequencies, not to mention be more localized.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
179 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tulpa /forum/post/19569020


Not necessarily sloppier, but when you hit the edge of the frequency response range, the dropoff in volume is way more noticeable on a ported design. It's like the sub hits a wall.

Sorry was in process of also changing my post, didnt want you to miss the edit! =)

Thanks for your feedback! Check above for the edit!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,938 Posts
It looks like the JVC sub is more of a "bass module", kind of akin to the Bose systems, just going by the stats. 45hz is the lowest it can go? Sounds like it's designed to work with the soundbar to provide bass rather than act as a true subwoofer. It'll be kind of hard to match a standalone sub to it, especially on the cheap. Two different design philosophies at work here.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,938 Posts
That I don't know. Does the Vizio need to be crossed over at 150hz? I can see the JVC doing that since they designed everything to work together (if not exactly bringing down the house in terms of performance.)


I'd find it weird that they would allow any random sub to be hooked up and then cross over so high, but stranger things have happened.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
179 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tulpa /forum/post/19569137


That I don't know. Does the Vizio need to be crossed over at 150hz? I can see the JVC doing that since they designed everything to work together (if not exactly bringing down the house in terms of performance.)


I'd find it weird that they would allow any random sub to be hooked up and then cross over so high, but stranger things have happened.

Well the vizio specs are this:Speakers Included: 1

Speaker Features: Volume Leveling, Enhanced Surround Sound Technology

Sensitivity: 100dB

Frequency Response: 60Hz-20kHz

Peak Power Handling: 60 Watts

Wired Connectivity: Optical, Stereo, RCA

Speaker Enclosure Type: Self-Enclosed

Tweeters: 2

Tweeter Speaker Size: 0.75 "

Tweeter Type: Aluminum Dome

Midranges: 4

Midrange Speaker Size: 3.0 "

A/V Equipment Compatibility: Home Stereo, TV, Gaming Equipment, MP3 Players

Includes: Audio Cable, Remote Control

Material: Plastic

Dimensions: Length: 39.62 "; Width: 4.26 "; Depth: 4.67 "

Product Weight: 11.7 Lb.

Warranty Description: 1 Year Limited Manufacturer Warranty on Parts and Labor



So, technically it goes down to 60hz, but I think I saw someone mention it places the crossover around the 100's.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,089 Posts
Well, I own the Dayton SUB80 and I just swapped the woofer with a $15 8" woofer and it was a notable improvement. So for under $100, its pretty good comparatively to what you could buy for $100, IMO.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,218 Posts
IF, and this is a big IF... IF the Vizio sound bars sub out is a low passed signal (and not full range), then my recommendation is a B-stock Final Sound S95 subwoofer from Outlaw Audio for $89 shipped.


It was designed to mate with Final Sound's small electrostatics which required a high xover point (I think in the 150Hz range)...


Thing is... it doesn't have a built in xover in the sub amp... so you MUST have some sort of bass management upstream of this sub.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
179 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by alphaiii /forum/post/19570472


IF, and this is a big IF... IF the Vizio sound bars sub out is a low passed signal (and not full range), then my recommendation is a B-stock Final Sound S95 subwoofer from Outlaw Audio for $89 shipped.


It was designed to mate with Final Sound's small electrostatics which required a high xover point (I think in the 150Hz range)...


Thing is... it doesn't have a built in xover in the sub amp... so you MUST have some sort of bass management upstream of this sub.

Thanks for that, but I went to their site and didnt see this sub listed anywhere...maybe its discontinued?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
721 Posts
The only sub i can reccomend anywhere near that price point is the BIC V1020. It runs about $145 shipped.


Really the only thing i can tell you is that you get what you pay for. There is a certain price point when it comes to different products where all you're doing is buying a piece of trash that isn't worth buying. Its like buying a $3 pocket knife; its not gonna cut worth the ****, won't take or hold an edge, etc etc.


That b stock sub would definitely be an option.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
179 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hrimnir /forum/post/19570807


The only sub i can reccomend anywhere near that price point is the BIC V1020. It runs about $145 shipped.


Really the only thing i can tell you is that you get what you pay for. There is a certain price point when it comes to different products where all you're doing is buying a piece of trash that isn't worth buying. Its like buying a $3 pocket knife; its not gonna cut worth the ****, won't take or hold an edge, etc etc.


That b stock sub would definitely be an option.

Why that one over the V80? Arent they of the same quality? Just the V80 not being able to hit as low notes?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
721 Posts

Quote:
Originally Posted by GenTarkin /forum/post/19570709


Oh cool thanks!

Whats odd, is I read through the user manual and at the end it specified a crossover setting of like 50-200hz...wtf? thought it didnt have one lol!

Powered subs generally have built in crossovers. Most people don't use them because they do crossover through their receiver, in your case this sub does not have one, which is one of the reasons its cheaper, but it should still blend decently with your system, i wouldnt worry about it personally.


Also, i took a look at that sub, for just under $100 you arent gonna find a better deal than that. I would be all over it if i were you.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
179 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hrimnir /forum/post/19570856


Powered subs generally have built in crossovers. Most people don't use them because they do crossover through their receiver, in your case its a good thing because your soundbar only extends down to about 150hz, so you would want to set the crossover knob on that sub to about 160 or so to get it to blend nicely.


Also, i took a look at that sub, for just under $100 you arent gonna find a better deal than that. I would be all over it if i were you.


Well the reason I said that, is....the guy who posted about it states there is no crossover on the unit and its part of a set...which controls the xover in the receiver. Also I saw a site saying there was no xover in it.

But I read the manual and states there is a xover LOL?


Also, what would it sound like if m y sound bar didnt have a low pass out, but sent the sub full range? lol


Oh that sub goes up to 200hz, so basically anything 200hz and below would be played through the sub...w/ the full range coming from the bar.


If thats the case would that sound terrible if the bars speakers cut off is around 150hz?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
721 Posts

Quote:
Originally Posted by GenTarkin /forum/post/19570839


Why that one over the V80? Arent they of the same quality? Just the V80 not being able to hit as low notes?

Sorry about the delayed response, got a long call.


I actually wasn't aware they still made the v80. Looking over it its pretty similar to that Outlaw sub, though i would suspect the outlaw would be a better sub.


But when it comes to bass, its really all about moving air, thats not to say an 8" sub is useless, driver design always plays a big factor, but all things equal a 10" driver will outperform a 8" driver in both output and extension.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
721 Posts

Quote:
Originally Posted by GenTarkin /forum/post/19570880


Well the reason I said that, is....the guy who posted about it states there is no crossover on the unit and its part of a set...which controls the xover in the receiver. Also I saw a site saying there was no xover in it.

But I read the manual and states there is a xover LOL?


Also, what would it sound like if m y sound bar didnt have a low pass out, but sent the sub full range? lol


Oh that sub goes up to 200hz, so basically anything 200hz and below would be played through the sub...w/ the full range coming from the bar.


If thats the case would that sound terrible if the bars speakers cut off is around 150hz?

Sorry i misread it too when i made that post, i re edited it after you quoted apparently.


The sub definitely does not have a crossover.


What that means is the sub will attempt to play any material it receives below 200hz, your main speaker will attempt to play anything it receives down to about 150hz.


The good thing is manufacturers usually fudge those numbers a bit, so for example my Klipsch mains specs say they play to like 32hz, but when audyssey tested it, they only went down to about 50hz with any real authority.


the fact that you will have a 50hz overlap is actually a good thing, it should blend reasonably well.


The other thing about crossovers is that they aren't walls, they are points where the speaker can no longer play at an acceptable level. So that sub might actually be able to reproduce say 225hz, but it probably does it 10 or 20db (or more) quieter than it can do 200hz.
 
1 - 20 of 33 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top