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The only way I can think of is to figure out a way to put 3D glasses between the TV and the meter. But light coming from windows etc will throw off the meter.

So then, the next best thing is to wait for complete darkness, put the meter on a tripod close to tv and then attach the glasses to it. Does this sound right? Anything I should pay attention to? Or any other ideas?
 

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That's about right.

If you calibrate in the daytime then stick bin (garbage) bags over the window glass to reduce or eliminate any ambient light.
Then put your meter on a tripod and position this around 18 inches from the TV. If your TV uses an active 3D system the tripod needs to be far enough away so that the lenses can be seen to flicker when they are put in place for the calibration.
Finally attach the glasses to the meter using zip ties or something similar and make sure the sensor is looking through one of the lenses.
 

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This is what I do:

1) Use AVS709 disc (free from this forum)
2) Put TV in 2D>3D conversion mode.
3) Turn on glasses
4) Adjust brightness/contrast/colour by eye (through the glasses). The contrast might need to be turned down to avoid clipping.
5) Take arms off a pair of 3D glasses and run HCFR.
6) In a completely dark room, press the 3D glasses against the screen with an i1 Pro Spectrophotometer and take R, G, B, W readings, save the file and tick the reference measure box.
7) Open a new file, take R, G, B, W readings with i1 Display Pro colorimeter without the glasses.
8) Create correction file from reference measure.
9) On my Samsung Plasma Warm 1 is the closest after profiling the i1d3 (more blue, less red and green, the glasses have a slight yellowish tint.
10) Adjust 2 point white balance
11) Adjust CMS.

Don't be suprised if you only get 20cdm2 light output at 100% white, the glasses really do make things that much darker.

This would be easier on a passive 3D set because the glasses are cheap so it doesn't matter if you destroy a pair.
 

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8) Create correction file from reference measure.
Makes 3D calibration significantly easier and faster. Even if you don't have a reference spectrometer just profile the D3 to itself with the glasses on.
 
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