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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
:confused: I have pretty much decided to put up a parkland plastic screen after reading the numerous posts about them. My question is; what are everyone using to mount the plastic sheet. Can it go directly on the wall and be trimmed? I was thinking about 1/4" plywood and contact cement until I read a post saying the wood might warp. I do not want anything to thick as I would like it to look flat on the wall. Is anyone using a flat ridgid material that would work. I have a painted textured wall at the moment. Any ideas or personal experiences that could be shared would be greatly appreciated.
 

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I mounted my .060" thick parkland to a 1x4 framework, and then made a frame out of 2x6's and some cheap black cloth to go around it. It sticks about 3" away from the wall.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Are you happy with the result. Is there any buckling in the plastic at all. You said framework, is that the only thing that support it.
 

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Parkland also makes a product that is called Durotherm Lite panels. They can be found in the paneling aisle at Menards, and possibly other home improvement stores. Standard is 4ft x 8ft x 5/16" thick honeycomb core. One side has the same material as the flimsy Parkland material that people have to adhere to another substrate to keep flat and also use glue. This material can just be hung and enjoyed, and trimmed easily if needed, it is very light weight. It is very easy to clean if needed as it is waterproof. The last time I checked you can pick them up for around $25 bucks a sheet.
 

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I am very happy with my Parkland. At this point I have no desire to upgrade the screen.


The 1x4 framework goes around the perimeter as well as two diagonals that approximately divided the frame into thirds. I built the 2x6 outer frame with a rabett, so that I could fully remove the framework and take out and replace the sheet easily. I built 4 "toggles" (one for each frame member, which twist to hold the framework and Parkland in place. I built it this way, in case I wanted to upgrade to Da-Lite material later.


There is a slight amount of buckling (1/8-1/4") which is not visible at all from the seating position. The only way to see the buckling is to stand at the edge of the screen and look down it.


Sirquack - the other material would be nice, but I couldn't get one of those sheets in my car. It was easy to roll up the Parklannd material and throw the boards in my back seat.
 

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that is why I own a Silverado :)
 

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That really added alot of cost to your home theater!


Next time I need something BIG from Menards, I will let you know and you can swing through Newton.
 

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I built a screen with this stuff, and I'm a perfectionist and wanted to build it to stay the first time.


I used a sheet of luann plywood, very thing and light. Made a frame and mounted the luann on it. I then glued the parkland to the luann, with 3m adhesive. I used a rolling pin to roll it out.


I then framed it with thin window framing, which I had already painted flat black.


Most people are surprised it is a DIY screen.


>Durotherm Lite panels.


That sounds like a great alternative as well, I need to see if I can find some locally.
 

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And catch a race at the new track :)
 

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nice website HT Dude, thanks for the reference :)
 

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Thanks! It's new but I'm werkin' on it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I was thinking about cutting out the 1/2 " drywall to the size of the screen and gluing the parkland to a 1/2 inch piece of plywood. The screen would be flush with the rest of the wall and I would simply trim it with some black painted trim. The entire wall behind the screen wall is covered with OSB behind the wallboard so mounting should not be a problem. Does anyone see any possible problems with the solution. The room is a dedicated HT room and has no other uses so I am not worried about cutting out the drywall.
 

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I guess if you ever decide to try a different screen in the future you would have a big hole in the wall :) Just use the Parkland Durotherm Panels, then you don't have to glue anything. You could still create some type of black boarder to attach around the perimeter, or do like I did, paint the back wall "leather jacket flat black"
 

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Don't cut the drywall. You may not have a problem with it now, but you'll regret it later. (What if you move, or more importantly - you decide you want your screen higher/lower)


If you're going to mount the PP to plywood, just hang the thing like a picture. You'll need sturdy hardware and will need to mount into studs, but it works great.
 

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Heck just paint on your wall and use the wall :)
 

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Yup, nothing wrong with that.
 

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I glued my parkland to the back of a hollow core door. Then nailed it to a wood frame covered in black velvet like material. The screen is a little heavy, but gluing the parkland to the door made a perfectly flat surface. Then I put a couple coats of silverscreen and its ready to mount.


My last parkland had a bunch of waves in it because it didn't have enough tension on all sides to keep it taught. Now I just need to figure out how to mount the dang thing. I could hang it, but I don't like the idea of having the chains coming out from the top. Ill have to figure something else out.
 

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I simply used little brad nails and nailed the parkland directly to the dry-wall.

We used about 10 brads on top and bottom and about 6 per side. I cut it to make a 98" diagonal 16x9 screen and am going to use door trim (2.25 inch) painted flat black as a frame. This frame will get screwed directly into the wall as well.


It lays almost perfectly flat on the wall and for $20 I could not be happier with it....
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Yes, If I ever moved the screen I would probably regret it with having to fix the wall again. I guess I will try the new product with the core on it and use a border. I would have liked it flush with the wall but I guess its not that important.


Thanks for all the ideas.


:eek: :rolleyes:
 
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