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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a pair of NHT 2.5I's that I want to bi amp using 2 sa-2 amps for the woofers and b&K amp for the tops.I want to run this into my Yamaha RX-V2400.First time doing this and I wanna get it right,I have read the manuals and just dont get what I need to do.How many interconnects will I need also for this?Any help would be greatly appreciated.If someone could send me a diagram even better


How many y splitters will I need and interconnects?
 

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I'm assuming the diagram represents the entire amp/speaker system (that is, no subwoofer, no other channels), but that's a guess on my part.


Traditionally, in the two-channel world, you'd need an external electronic crossover to accomplish this: The L/R full-range preamp outs would go to the electronic crossover, which would provide "high" and "low" preamp outs for the various amps.


An A/V receiver, on the other hand, already has an internal digital crossover and multiple outputs. If your particular receiver has two subwoofer outs, then you can feed those "low" signals to the SA-2 amps. (If it has one subwoofer out, then you can split it with a Y-connector and do the same thing.) The B&K amps would be fed by the L/R main outs (which are "high").


Is this what you have in mind?
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Brownstone /forum/post/18183632


I'm assuming the diagram represents the entire amp/speaker system (that is, no subwoofer, no other channels), but that's a guess on my part.


Traditionally, in the two-channel worls, you'd need an external electronic crossover to accomplish this: The L/R full-range preamp outs would go to the electronic crossover, which would provide "high" and "low" preamp out for the various amps.


An A/V receiver, on the other hand, already has an internal digital crossover and multiple outputs. If your particular receiver has two subwoofer outs, then you can feed those "low" signals to the SA-2 amps. (If it has one subwoofer out, then you can split it with a Y-connector and do the same thing.) The B&K amps would be fed by the L/R main outs (which are "high").


Is this what you have in mind?


One other option: If the 2400 can cross over the L/R mains at the NHT 2.5I's high/low cross over point (which I believe is 100 Hz...?), you could run the L/R mains as 'small' and pass redirected (combined) L/R bass plus LFE, as 'mono', to both NHT 2.5I woofer sections. (No external cross over needed, and the NHT 2.5I's high sections could even be driven from the 2400's internal amps if desired...)
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by SoundChex /forum/post/18183933


If the 2400 can cross over the L/R mains at the NHT 2.5I's high/low cross over point, you could run the L/R mains as 'small' and pass redirected (combined) L/R bass plus LFE, as 'mono', to both NHT 2.5I woofer sections. (No external cross over needed, and the NHT 2.5I's high sections could even be driven from the 2400's internal amps if desired...)

That's exactly what I wrote: "An A/V receiver ... already has an internal digital crossover and multiple outputs." I omitted reference to the internal amps, because he seemed commited to external amplifiers. But the internal amps would certainly work.


In fact, any A/V receiver with bass management is suitable for biamping; all you'd need would be speakers that have multiple inputs that bypass the passive crossovers. Even so, in the old days biamping was often employed with an externally powered subwoofer and two-way "satellite" speakers (meaning the speakers' crossovers were still part of the scheme). By that measure, with the proliferation of digital bass management and powered subwoofers, all contemporary systems employ a form of biamping whenever all speakers are set to "small."


For the original poster's benefit, I wanted to be clear that we were not referring to different options.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Brownstone /forum/post/18184476


That's exactly what I wrote: "An A/V receiver ... already has an internal digital crossover and multiple outputs." I omitted reference to the internal amps, because he seemed commited to external amplifiers. But the internal amps would certainly work.


In fact, any A/V receiver with bass management is suitable for biamping; all you'd need would be speakers that have multiple inputs that bypass the passive crossovers. Even so, in the old days biamping was often employed with an externally powered subwoofer and two-way "satellite" speakers (meaning the speakers' crossovers were still part of the scheme). By that measure, with the proliferation of digital bass management and powered subwoofers, all contemporary systems employ a form of biamping whenever all speakers are set to "small."


For the original poster's benefit, I wanted to be clear that we were not referring to different options.


mea culpa!
 

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Wouldn't one, if using the above method, try to match what the internal passive crossover is set at?


I suppose that should be easy to find in the product specs.


What if that number is significantly higher than what the receiver can be set at? Doesn't that me that someone would be puhing frequencies to the midrange driver that the designer never intended?
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by D_Strasse /forum/post/18184763


Wouldn't one, if using the above method, try to match what the internal passive crossover is set at?


I suppose that should be easy to find in the product specs.


What if that number is significantly higher than what the receiver can be set at? Doesn't that me that someone would be puhing frequencies to the midrange driver that the designer never intended?

Yes, it certainly would.


The crossover settings in A/V processors are designed to blend subwoofers with "small" speakers, so one might think the selections would go high enough. On the other hand, maybe not, especially with a two-way speaker with a "bass/midrange" driver.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by D_Strasse /forum/post/18184763


Wouldn't one, if using the above method, try to match what the internal passive crossover is set at?


I suppose that should be easy to find in the product specs.


What if that number is significantly higher than what the receiver can be set at? Doesn't that me that someone would be pushing frequencies to the midrange driver that the designer never intended?
100 Hz , I believe.
 

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Waste of time. I did this with my 2.9's and there was no difference. I used a combo of an Acurus amp and an SA-2 amp. Unless you are going to defeat the internal x-over in favor of an active system, there will be no difference.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·



would this work?use a splitter on each sa-2 and a splitter on each of the L&R pre outs on the yamaha.Then run a interconnects to the other channels?Or can I just use on sa-2 to do this?

Bare with me I a noobe here.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thirsty93 /forum/post/18187580


would this work?use a splitter on each sa-2 and a splitter on each of the L&R pre outs on the yamaha.Then run a interconnects to the other channels?Or can I just use on sa-2 to do this?

Bare with me I a noobe here.



My choice would be to feed the B&K's L/R inputs from the 'Satellite Line Out' terminals on the two NHT SA-2 amps (on one amp using only the LEFT 'Line In' and 'Satellite Line Out' RCA terminals; on the other use only the RIGHT RCA terminals). Also, because the high/low crossover in the NHT 2.5I is 100Hz, you would need to set the 'Subwoofer Fc' to >100Hz, and the 'Satellite Fc' to 75Hz on both SA-2 amps.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thirsty93 /forum/post/18187580



would this work?use a splitter on each sa-2 and a splitter on each of the L&R pre outs on the yamaha.Then run a interconnects to the other channels?Or can I just use on sa-2 to do this?

Bare with me I a noobe here.

Technically, your diagram will work but I think you may be misunderstanding how the crossovers between the speakers and receiver work together - or don't work together.


I think the results you are looking for may resemble an active crossover setup more closely. As several others have posted here. That link helped me to understand them better. There are many pages on that site to help guys like us.


You already have the amplifiers you would need. You would only need an active box between your receiver and amps. Just make sure you understand the minimum x-over points that the tweeters can handle. Probably around 2-3kHz.


Have fun with it!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
If I am running a seprete subwoofer,will I still benifit from bi-amping the 2.5:S?
 

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I was just looking back at your original diagram, and what is an "SA-2" anyway? By your diagram, it looks as though an "SA-2" is a stereo amp. Why would you use one side of a stereo amp to drive a woofer? Arre those things bridgeable to mono?


I used to own an Adcom GFA-555 -- 200W stereo and bridgeable to 600W mono. Now that thing would have made a good amp for a passive subwoofer or for one "low" channel of a biamped setup.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Brownstone /forum/post/18202877


I was just looking back at your original diagram, and what is an "SA-2" anyway? By your diagram, it looks as though an "SA-2" is a stereo amp. Why would you use one side of a stereo amp to drive a woofer? Arre those things bridgeable to mono?


I used to own an Adcom GFA-555 -- 200W stereo and bridgeable to 600W mono. Now that thing would have made a good amp for a passive subwoofer or for one "low" channel of a biamped setup.
NHT SA-2 user manual
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Am i better off with using 1 nht sa-3 amp or 2 nht sa-2 amp?
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wrager /forum/post/18185807


Waste of time. I did this with my 2.9's and there was no difference. I used a combo of an Acurus amp and an SA-2 amp. Unless you are going to defeat the internal x-over in favor of an active system, there will be no difference.

Same here. I tried using 4 channels from a B&K Ref7270 (200W X 7) to my 2.9's. I ran Y splitters from my L&R preamp outs to 4 channels of the B&K. Each speaker was getting 400W; 200 to the woofer and 200 to the tweeter, upper mid, and lower mid. I allowed the speaker's internal crossover split the 2 channels. I thought it sounded great. Recently, I rewired my system and chose not to biamp. I just gave each speaker 1 channel. Guess what? It sounded no different. As long as your main amp has enough balls, I see no need to biamp.


Regards,

Brian
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Antibayi /forum/post/18225528


Same here. I tried using 4 channels from a B&K Ref7270 (200W X 7) to my 2.9's. I ran Y splitters from my L&R preamp outs to 4 channels of the B&K. Each speaker was getting 400W; 200 to the woofer and 200 to the tweeter, upper mid, and lower mid. I allowed the speaker's internal crossover split the 2 channels. I thought it sounded great. Recently, I rewired my system and chose not to biamp. I just gave each speaker 1 channel. Guess what? It sounded no different. As long as your main amp has enough balls, I see no need to biamp.


Regards,

Brian

Im runnin a B&K Components Reference ST 125.2 Series 2 Power Amp,

Power Rating @ 8 Ω

125 W

Power Rating @ 4 Ω

185 W

Number of Channels

2

Current (Peak to Peak)

30 Amps

Dynamic Head Room

1.2 dB
 

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While it would be nice to have a little more power to the 2.5i's, I think you have enough amp as it is. Assuming of course your room is not too large. Do you have the sub amps or were you planning on buying them? If you don't have them, keep it that way. I believe NHT tries to convince people to add the sub amps so they can sell them (it is their own amp, therefore more profit for them). If you really want to biamp, I would purchase the same B&K you already have and split the preamp signal like I did. Use one B&K for the highs and mids and the other for the woofer. This method requires you use identical amps. By going NHT's route, you have to play with the level of the SA-2 or SA-3 to get the bass right. Just make sure you remove the jumpers from the speaker terminals before you biamp. The speaker's internal crossover will ensure the 2 amps are distributed correctly. My prefered option would be to buy a B&K amp with closer to 200w per side and use your existing amp for the surrounds or center. Good luck!


Regards,

Brian
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Antibayi /forum/post/18228355


While it would be nice to have a little more power to the 2.5i's, I think you have enough amp as it is. Assuming of course your room is not too large. Do you have the sub amps or were you planning on buying them? If you don't have them, keep it that way. I believe NHT tries to convince people to add the sub amps so they can sell them (it is their own amp, therefore more profit for them). If you really want to biamp, I would purchase the same B&K you already have and split the preamp signal like I did. Use one B&K for the highs and mids and the other for the woofer. This method requires you use identical amps. By going NHT's route, you have to play with the level of the SA-2 or SA-3 to get the bass right. Just make sure you remove the jumpers from the speaker terminals before you biamp. The speaker's internal crossover will ensure the 2 amps are distributed correctly. My prefered option would be to buy a B&K amp with closer to 200w per side and use your existing amp for the surrounds or center. Good luck!

I see what your sayin here,here is the options i have or should I say the amps i have to work with:2 sa 2 amps



Regards,

Brian

I see what your sayin here,here is the options i have or should I say the amps i have to work with:2 sa-2 amps,I also I have a extra sa-3 amp in the box that I would have to have repaired and a sw2pi.

1.use the 2 SA-2's bi-amp the 2.5 and be done with it(if its worth it)

2.Use a single sa-3 and by amp the 2.5;s and be done with it.

3.leave the speakers alone and sell the 2 sa-2,the sa-3 and the sw2pi and be done with it.

Really need some advice here
 
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