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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I just purchased a set of CM9 and CM Center (Original Series in impeccable shape and less than half of the series 2!) I also recently purchased a Denon AVR-X4000. And I have an Outlaw Audio Model 7500 amp in my arsenal. Currently, the jumpers are in place and I have 12ga wire connecting them to my amp. I'm thinking of experimenting a little and seeing if there is significant reason to go with a bi amped setup instead. Also, the Outlaw audio is pushing my front 3 and my 2 rears.

1. If I bi-amp the speakers and use 4 channels of my Outlaw amp, I will only have 1 channel left for my center. Will there be a big difference in output if the L & R are biamped and the center not?
2. My rears can be powered from my receiver if I use all 5 channels of the amp for the Front and Center, but will I lose my powered zone2 from the Denon? If yes, then I can add a 2 channel (Emotiva XPA-200) I have laying around collecting dust. Sound reasonable?
3. Is there any real significance to bi-amping? What Crossover settings should I use? I'm assuming this is built into the Denon x4000 once I choose the bi-amp feature. Correct?

Thanks,
Joe
 

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Honestly I don't think you could hear a difference between your AVR and the amp let alone bi-amping. But that's just MO.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Honestly I don't think you could hear a difference between your AVR and the amp let alone bi-amping. But that's just MO.

So many enthusiasts say the same, so it's probably true. I still don't understand why so many manufacturers give this option when building their speakers. I've NEVER tried it in over 30 years in this hobby. But for some reason, I'm tempted to try with my current setup.
 

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I'd say if you have all the stuff and time than go ahead and mess around with bi-amping. I say a majority of people here are going to tell you biamping changes nothing or extra amplification is unnecessary. I say give it a try, see if you notice any difference and once you have finished experimenting, let us know your results.
 

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IMO: Try running your system with all speakers wired "normally", and then try running it with the mains bi-amped using the Outlaw amp. Go with whichever set-up sounds better to you. (Whether or not there's an actual difference is arguable, but what not arguable is your preference.)
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I'm planning on doing it this weekend. I am going to bi amp my fronts and leave the center with a single wire connection (as it is now) Seeing as how the center and my mains are the same series and same drivers, that should be the easiest way to see if I can hear a difference between bi amping and not.

BUT, if I do like how the mains sound bi-amped, as opposed to the center which won't be, I have a new dilemma. I'll need another channel to bi-amp my center. And I would want to bi-amp the front 3 with the same amount of power and preferably from the same manufacturer of amp. We'll see I guess.

I will post my findings after trying it out.

Thanks
 

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So I just purchased a set of CM9 and CM Center (Original Series in impeccable shape and less than half of the series 2!) I also recently purchased a Denon AVR-X4000. And I have an Outlaw Audio Model 7500 amp in my arsenal. Currently, the jumpers are in place and I have 12ga wire connecting them to my amp. I'm thinking of experimenting a little and seeing if there is significant reason to go with a bi amped setup instead. Also, the Outlaw audio is pushing my front 3 and my 2 rears.

1. If I bi-amp the speakers and use 4 channels of my Outlaw amp, I will only have 1 channel left for my center. Will there be a big difference in output if the L & R are biamped and the center not?
2. My rears can be powered from my receiver if I use all 5 channels of the amp for the Front and Center, but will I lose my powered zone2 from the Denon? If yes, then I can add a 2 channel (Emotiva XPA-200) I have laying around collecting dust. Sound reasonable?
3. Is there any real significance to bi-amping? What Crossover settings should I use? I'm assuming this is built into the Denon x4000 once I choose the bi-amp feature. Correct?

Thanks,
Joe
I would definitely just use the 5CH for all 5 speakers and totally forget about passive bi-amp since it is a total waste of time.
 

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It seems OP is bi-wiring rather than bi-amping.

You'd have to modify your CM9's x-over. In replacement you set up an external x-over management to direct HF and LF through 2 amps. Maybe use monoblocks?

So in this case, it sounds like bi-wiring. Might as well just use thicker cables. :cool:
 

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I biamp my hifi system, they're vertically biamped, with two, two channel power amplifiers 100W into 8ohm. 4 ohm speakers so probably 150W output into those speakers.

Worth it.

But I wouldn't bother biamping with your AVR
 

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So many enthusiasts say the same, so it's probably true. I still don't understand why so many manufacturers give this option when building their speakers. I've NEVER tried it in over 30 years in this hobby. But for some reason, I'm tempted to try with my current setup.
If you want to try biamping verses triamping, go to ebay, look for an Electro Voice DX-38 active crossover.


Tinker with your speakers and straps so that you can attach an amp directly to your woofer(s) and the other lead (amp) goes to the passive that would itself, further split between your midrange & tweeter.


It might be a lot of work for nothing but, it also allows you to put a stout amp on the woofer(s) and a more delicate amp (tube?) on the midrange/tweeter.


I actively biamp and had never done anything of the like over 30+ years. Jumped into it cold turkey BUT, I had the DSP parameters needed from the factory.


You'd need to work on your crossover point & slope.


If you do it close enough that it's accurate and decide it's not for you, you can always re-sell the active crossover. If you DO like it then you're done.


I don't know that I see ever going back to passive now that I've gone active.
 

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There are some tiny, theoretical benefits to bi-amping with an AVR*, but they're so small they're likely not worth the time, effort, or cost of any additional cable.

*By spreading the load out to more sets of transistors, the heat from the transistors is also spread out to more area along the heatsink, meaning the heatsink will dissipate the heat more efficiently, meaning the amp might be able to play slightly louder for slightly longer before any thermal-based shutdown switching occurs. Like I said, it's probably tiny and not worth the effort.
 

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The only reason that I can see to use separate amplifiers feeding the HI section / LO section separately is to be able to adjust the relative levels of the two sections. Which should be quite unnecessary if the speaker is competently designed in the first place.

If you have the gear to experiment with, you should go where your curiosity takes you. The more experienced posters here will give you a forecast of what you might expect to discover.
 

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It seems OP is bi-wiring rather than bi-amping.

You'd have to modify your CM9's x-over. In replacement you set up an external x-over management to direct HF and LF through 2 amps. Maybe use monoblocks?

So in this case, it sounds like bi-wiring. Might as well just use thicker cables. :cool:
No, what he is attempting is PASSIVE bi-amping. A seperate amp channel for the LF versus HF section, but going through the same crossover.
 

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I still don't understand why so many manufacturers give this option when building their speakers.
So they won't lose a sale to someone who thinks it's worthwhile.
 
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I have the Denon X4000 and I am very interested if the amp can be setup to do bi-amp via external amplification. I used to run a 3310 set to bi-amp and then run the pre-outs into a Rotel 5 channel external amp (2 each for L & R and 1 for center). The 3310 would correctly send the front signals on (F-L & SB-L, F-R & SB-R pre-out terminals).

I've not been able to get the X4000 to work the same. If you do get bi-amping working on the X4000 with an external please let us know.
 
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