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I currently am running my fronts with a pioneer txi55 and the mx-10 pioneer 2 channel amp. Both are rated at 100watts per channel, so if I get one of the new pioneer receivers that is rated @ 140 or 130 watts per channel will that create a problem with the current 2 channel amp being only 100watts per channel? Please help!
 

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I have no idea what you mean.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by DMF
I have no idea what you mean.
agreed
 

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I thinks what oakley36 means is when bi-amping should one use amps with the same power output ratings (e.g. both 100W amps) or could one use two amps with different power ratings (e.g. amp 1 - 100W, amp 2 - 120W).
 

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passive bi-amping is a waste of time, and makes no real difference anyway. And no, you should not do it with two different amps...not a good idea.


I passively biam my center - only because I had the available channel, and I wanted to see how it would sound, but there's no discernable difference. I left it because I'm lazy, and it's not hurting anything.
 

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If the amps are different, you will need to match the gain of the two. Output potential is not the issue.


Kal
 

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Passive bi-amping is analogous to mixing PC2100 and PC3200 RAM in the same computer;

the PC2100 will limit the PC3200 to PC2100 speed.

Your smallest amplifier will clip before the larger amplifier, effectively converting it to a smaller amplifier, since both are running the same full bandwidth signals.

There are no real advantages I can think of to passive bi-amping.

It certainly does not increase the dynamic range.

Gain is the only real issue; a mismatch will create problems at the crossover frequency.

Active bi-amplification is different, since each amplifier is limited to its own frequency range by an electronic crossover. In this case the high frequency amplifier can be smaller since the power demands are smaller.

Active systems use amplifier power more efficiently, since there are no passive crossover networks in the signal path dissipating power.

They also provide much wider dynamic range, since the bass amp can clip all day long without overheating the tweeters.


BTW, amplifier power ratings are exactly that; they are just ratings into an 8 ohm resistor.

The actual output of an amplifier will vary greatly depending on the load and amount of current it can provide.

ie: two identical amplifiers will have very similar output; two amplifiers of different manufacture that carry the same output rating will not typically have the same actual output.

The difference between a 100 watt amp and a 140 watt amp is exactly the same as the difference between a 10 watt amp and a 14 watt amp. (all other factors being equal)

ie: the difference is negligible at best, and probably not audible at all.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by DMF
I have no idea what you mean.
DMF's confused. That's a shock :rolleyes:


The issue is damping factor more so than wattage. Most good receiver will cap at afigure of 80. Damping factor is an indication of how well the speaker is under the contol of the amp. As a result, more tha likely the separate amp is still doing that task better than the new receiver. Therefore, use the amp for bass duties (generally speaking) if your speakers need it.
 

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Quote:
Damping factor is an indication of how well the speaker is under the contol of the amp.
Here's the rest of the quote from the webpage that boon got his information from:

Quote:
If you don't understand basic electric current and voltage, let's just say that damping factor is a figure of merit that tells you how good an amplifier is at controlling a speaker system. The larger the number, the better it is. At 100 or above, it's pretty darned good. Below 20 or so, it's pretty poor.
Notice how the paragraph starts? It must have been written knowing boon would be the reader. ;)
 
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