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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Bill's Elusive 1099 build

First I want to thank Erich and Tux for all their hard work. I want to thank Erich for putting up with me.

I am replacing my curent set up with 3 of Tux's 1099s. I had 3 on the hook but they got away. I finaly landed 3. I am using a Seymour DIY screen and my current speakers are BOSE 301s and VSC 10 center. They are small enough to put above the frame and the tweeter is a little higher than the first row ears.

First row is 10'6" from screen. Screen is 24" from wall treated with 1 1/2" mineral wool. the height of ears when reclined is 38" give or take (I am 6' tall) the frame is 5" thick so bottom edge 29" from floor and inside edge being 34" from floor. (there is an 8" stage and the frame is 21" higher)

they arrived




only opened the top box everything looked good but instead of the packing noodels everyone else had I had square peanuts.

Great Job @Eric H
 

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As a past owner of 301s, you're going to $hit when you get these! Height of them is what you need them to be for your spot.

Mine currently sit on 18" stands. That was for my room and seating. Just try to get the horn at or slightly above seating height.

Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
thanks Burns my WAF seems to think they are good to go but my entire family are always saying turn it down. I think due to distortion more than anything a clean efficient speaker like the 1099 would change that. As you see I have 1/2" mineral wool on entire front wall with 17x17x24" mineral wool stacked 6' tall in the front corners which defeats the purpose of direct reflecting speakers like the 301s
 

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Distortion, killer of a good time, lol. I sometimes can't believe how loud I am listening to my system. It just sounds so good, then I pull out the meter and it's 110db, lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
How many did you get ?
LOL I got 3 I should have said 9 left I guess yours make it 8. Glade you checked in I was think of putting them on a Marty but I need him26" tall would building with the sides, rear, and front panel sitting onthe bottom and top sitting on them hurt anything? That would give me another11/2" making them 25 1/2" and I ordered some 1/2" rubber feet from PE. I only have 24" back there so they would need to be about 22" deep so a box that is 24"x25 1/2" x 22". Would that work for the daton 15" driver you have been using?
 

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LOL I got 3 I should have said 9 left I guess yours make it 8. Glade you checked in I was think of putting them on a Marty but I need him26" tall would building with the sides, rear, and front panel sitting onthe bottom and top sitting on them hurt anything? That would give me another11/2" making them 25 1/2" and I ordered some 1/2" rubber feet from PE. I only have 24" back there so they would need to be about 22" deep so a box that is 24"x25 1/2" x 22". Would that work for the daton 15" driver you have been using?
No problem with adjusting sizes to fit your space. The cube is 2' by 2' by 25.5" and I wouldn't go smaller. If you drop one down to 22" I would do 24" by 22" by 27" high. Having the 1099 a little higher ( 1-3") won't effect the sound at all. Having waveguide lower will.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
No problem with adjusting sizes to fit your space. The cube is 2' by 2' by 25.5" and I wouldn't go smaller. If you drop one down to 22" I would do 24" by 22" by 27" high. Having the 1099 a little higher ( 1-3") won't effect the sound at all. Having waveguide lower will.
is the port size still 2" tall and how long would it need to be to compensate for losing the 1 1/2" wide?
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
doing some research on inside dimensions and wanted to share and put it here so I can find it latter

Does this help? I posted this for someone else in FatShaft's 1099 thread.
Quote:Originally Posted by xosux

Wow never figured 2 weeks so i guess screw killing myself to get things done by this coming weekend then. I did see where fatshaft said each compartment was around 11 x 11 but that seemed small as the woofer is 10" and the vents look like 1" and the room between them looked like 12 or more inches per woofer compartment..

I'd wait for the baffles. You don't have that much wiggle room if you make a mistake. If you really want to get a jump start though I would build the enclosure and cut the dividers and then wait for the baffles just to make sure everything fits before I permanently attach the dividers. You can build the xovers while you wait for the glue to dry


This is the limiting dimension in deciding where to put the divider...FROM THE EDGE it's 12 7/8 to the edge of the woofer cutout and then you have about 7/8 of an inch to fit the divider. The other sides give you about 1 1/8.




Good luck on your build and can't wait to see the pictures!

here is a good image of a L/R baffle laying center baffle todemonstrate the variation
http://http://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-diy-speakers-subs/1529581-dtsdig-curvy-cab-tux-1099-build-5.html#post26117874
 

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If you just build them to the 36.25" height you can always change their height by building different sized stands. My eventual goal is to build subs that they will sit on. For now I built stands with scrap wood. This gives me flexibility in the future.

Towers can look awesome. Augmont did a great job with his and they look very imposing. For my situation it wasn't needed and my long term goals needed flexibility.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Mine will be behind AT screen so unless I put some up lighting spots on them no one will see. I figured if I have to cut wood and build something try and make it usefull. If I did 62" towers It would take 4 sheets of MDF. If I did marty type stands it would be 5 sheets total. I am leaning toward the normal 36" with stands of some sort. If I do not build the Marty for stands (even though I will have to wait on the drivers) I will get the looks from WAF later when I say I need to build new subwoffers.
 
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