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Discussion Starter #61
Seems like carpet pad is good for the woofer boxes but poly fill for the mid box.....I think?
of course I am using carpet pading because I have a ton of it. The best would be the acustic sheets from parts express or ebay like Donny (chalugadp) did in his build
 

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of course I am using carpet pading because I have a ton of it. The best would be the acustic sheets from parts express or ebay like Donny (chalugadp) did in his build
For sealed, fibreglass insulation is the best, but it's harder to work with. Poly fill is the next best.

For ported, pretty much anything works fine, just line the walls.
 

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Discussion Starter #65
For sealed, fibreglass insulation is the best, but it's harder to work with. Poly fill is the next best.

For ported, pretty much anything works fine, just line the walls.
Ok so I think I am at lining the walls with my carpet pads for the woffers and stuffing the mid section with Poly fill. Do I need to line the walls of the mid or just stuff? will the Poly fill cause issues with heat off the cross over?
 

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wow, I was about to but a pair of triton7's and stumbled on to a thread with these speakers and im even more pumped to buy these and get started. my only concern is the crossover build. does the template come with the kit? if for some reason the wiring was wrong whats the worst that could happen?


hope these aren't dumb questions, im not a mad scientist like you guys, but now I want to be one.
 

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wow, I was about to but a pair of triton7's and stumbled on to a thread with these speakers and im even more pumped to buy these and get started. my only concern is the crossover build. does the template come with the kit? if for some reason the wiring was wrong whats the worst that could happen?
hope these aren't dumb questions, im not a mad scientist like you guys, but now I want to be one.
Lots of guys are hesitant about the crossovers, no worries dude. The template can just be printed from the picture in the thread. The worst thing that could happen depends on the mistake. You wouldn't want to create a direct short across the outputs of your amp, but even then, if the volume was set low, most amps have some type of short protection. Other than that, no sound or messed up sound would be the other common conditions due to mistakes in the crossover. I'm here for help if you need it!
 

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do you need to buy one of those spl meters and learn rew for these types of speakers, or is that necessary only for diy subwoofers?

i am interested in diy only if all i need to do is get some clamps, glue and buy the flatpack and assembled crossovers with it. i just dont want to mess with spl meter and rew im too busy to learn another thing. i read it takes up a lot of time.

for a subwoofer i would just get an outlaw or svs or something.
 

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Discussion Starter #71 (Edited)
wow, I was about to but a pair of triton7's and stumbled on to a thread with these speakers and im even more pumped to buy these and get started. my only concern is the crossover build. does the template come with the kit? if for some reason the wiring was wrong whats the worst that could happen?


hope these aren't dumb questions, im not a mad scientist like you guys, but now I want to be one.
Robert Jones II developed it based on dtsdig excellent layout I just saved to my hard drive cut in half with paint and printed full size it was not that bad at all
Lots of guys are hesitant about the crossovers, no worries dude. The template can just be printed from the picture in the thread. The worst thing that could happen depends on the mistake. You wouldn't want to create a direct short across the outputs of your amp, but even then, if the volume was set low, most amps have some type of short protection. Other than that, no sound or messed up sound would be the other common conditions due to mistakes in the crossover. I'm here for help if you need it!
 

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do you need to buy one of those spl meters and learn rew for these types of speakers, or is that necessary only for diy subwoofers?

i am interested in diy only if all i need to do is get some clamps, glue and buy the flatpack and assembled crossovers with it. i just dont want to mess with spl meter and rew im too busy to learn another thing. i read it takes up a lot of time.

for a subwoofer i would just get an outlaw or svs or something.
you definitely can build these without measurement. Only issue comes up is if for some reason it's not working right it's hard to troubleshoot without measurement. But you should be fine without it. It doesn't take long at all to measure though.
 

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Discussion Starter #73
you definitely can build these without measurement. Only issue comes up is if for some reason it's not working right it's hard to troubleshoot without measurement. But you should be fine without it. It doesn't take long at all to measure though.
So what would we measure it with? REW and a USB mic
 

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Discussion Starter #76 (Edited)
do you need to buy one of those spl meters and learn rew for these types of speakers, or is that necessary only for diy subwoofers?

i am interested in diy only if all i need to do is get some clamps, glue and buy the flatpack and assembled crossovers with it. i just dont want to mess with spl meter and rew im too busy to learn another thing. i read it takes up a lot of time.

for a subwoofer i would just get an outlaw or svs or something.
Most amps have some sort of room corection my Daton has Audyssey my old Pioneer had MACC Yamaha has YPAO so they do all the corection for you. No need unless you are into that.
this is what I meant to say my phone auto corect butchered the last one
 

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Discussion Starter #77
if I were you I'd probably just do two 48" wide x 22" deep x 25.5" high boxes with SI 18 D4's, tuned to 17 hz. one channel of an Inuke 3000DSP each to power them. Or if you're interested in a sub 20 hz tradeoff for 30 hz gain, you can do two of the lab15 buyout drivers in each of those boxes (tuned to 27 hz instead of 17 hz), so 4 drivers total, powered by an inuke 6000DSP. The lab15's would be 4 dB louder from 30 hz and up and about 5 or so dB down at 20 hz, and 10 dB down from 18 hz and lower.
thanks now I am running the Dayton Audio T1204K 12" Titanic Mk 4 500 Watt RMS Subwoofer Kit http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-t1204k-12-titanic-mk-4-500-watt-rms-subwoofer-kit--300-762 and my old 12" JBL that I fixed with the same plate amp. what would they look like on that graph?
 
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