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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
1st AVS post: Not really a gearhead but no newbie, either. I just bought the 42WE655 and am underwhelmed. This is my first LCD TV. The black crush is so evident. I want to know why people would pay $1000 more than a RP CRT for lower PQ. Is it just something that people are willing to accept to avoid the problems w/ burn in? Also in very dark scenes, besides losing detail due to poor black levels, there is a green glow in the upper right of the screen and a blue glow in the upper left.


I'm not really willing to pay 1000 for professional calibration. I'm considering going back to the Toshiba 46H84 I had previously. Only problem there is that I watch alot of 4:3 and don't like to stretch.


Any advice or suggestions?
 

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DLPs have better blacks than LCD. It might be worth a look.
 

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Greetings


I don't know where you get a $1000 figure for calibration from. It is only $275 ... and hardly a break the bank proposition.


People get LCD/DLP RPTV's for lots of reasons beyond burn in ... infact, burn in is likely the last reason they think of.


Smaller foot print.

Brighter

Improved viewing angles

No geometry errors

No convergence errors

Virtually no warm up time

No colour shift from left to right


Plenty of reasons to go to the digital technology.


Regards
 

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xrtdr,


You may want to go rent a copy of Digital Video Essentials or Avia at your local blockbuster and see if you can straighten the issues out before taking the drastic measure of returning the unit or ISF Calibration.


It's probably just a very poor setup causing even worse black crush than normal on LCD and the glowing issue.


CCourtney
 

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I would like to clarify some things about LCD.


Fisrt off, the geometry is not perfect on many of these sets. In particular on the larger ones. I've seen sets with clear bowing and issues like that.


Also, you cannot fix that gren or blue glow you are seeing in the corners. That is one of the known and "accepted" flaws of this type of tv right now. It's not present on all sets though so if you exchanged that set for a new one you might get one without those problems. It it present on many of them though.
 

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xrtdr,


since you "just got" the set, I am assuming that you have not tweaked it, and/or are viewing in "Vivid" mode.


The GWIII/GWIV does not crush blacks in PRO mode, especially after tweaking. Try UMR's tweaks, on the popular threads list. Then write us back with an update.
 

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Weflen,


No, the pro mode doesn't crush blacks but it certainly washes out the rest of the picture. :(


In my experience your best bet with these Sony sets is the use Vivid but you have to tweak things to get things right. First off, I only use the Vivid mode for HD viewing and gaming. I use the Standard mode for DVDs.


So, with the Vivid setting I take the Picture setting down to about %60. I set the brightness at about the same as picture. Then, I set color a little below %50.


I think you'll find those settings do the best job for HD material on Vivid. Dvd's are a different story. Go to standard mode and use a calibration disk or the THX optimizer found on many DVDs to set things up right.
 

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Well I think the reasons listed by Michael TLV are great, add to that list no rainbows, eyestrain, or headaches from watching a DLP, no DLP dithering or "clay faces".


My WF55 is pretty uniform in color on a black screen. I won't say perfect becasue I haven't tested it with a colorimeter, but I can detect no colored "glows" from anywhere. I would say your set may have a defect.


Also you do not list what source you are using. I have noticed more crushing on Satelite than from DVD. Right now I like pro mode (calibrated with Avia) for DVD, and standard mode for SD. I need to calibrate standard and vivid mode with Avia to see if I like one of those better.
 

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Quote:
Originally posted by Tigerriot
Weflen,


No, the pro mode doesn't crush blacks but it certainly washes out the rest of the picture. :(


In my experience your best bet with these Sony sets is the use Vivid but you have to tweak things to get things right. First off, I only use the Vivid mode for HD viewing and gaming. I use the Standard mode for DVDs.


So, with the Vivid setting I take the Picture setting down to about %60. I set the brightness at about the same as picture. Then, I set color a little below %50.


I think you'll find those settings do the best job for HD material on Vivid. Dvd's are a different story. Go to standard mode and use a calibration disk or the THX optimizer found on many DVDs to set things up right.
Properly tweaked, PRO does not wash out 480p DVD source material. UMR's tweaks make a world of difference: they sharpen the image in PRO, and even out the grayscale to a tremendous degree.


I agree however, that PRO mode makes 720p and 1080i HD images less 'punchy.'


I use PRO to watch DVDs, and STANDARD to watch HD. I'd be more than happy to post my UM settings, but alas, I'm at work right now :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks everyone for your comments. I see rainbows on DLP so that's out of the question for now. (I think in a few years all DLP sets will have 3 chips and cost about the same as they do now.) I am perfectly happy with CRT but I do worry about burn-in since most of what I watch right now is SD 4:3. I do like the smaller footprint and sharp text on the LCDs.


I;m going to return/exchange the set (besides, it price-dropped) and then use Avia again. I'll keep you posted. Only dillemma now is 42" vs. 50"...wish they made a 46!
 

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Oops,


I saw black crush and green glow. I thought this thread was going to be about JVC D-ILA sets! Now I don't feel so bad. Guess some Sony LCD RP's have the problem too.
 
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