Blackout Fabric poll: Cotton or Vinyl side out ?

Hi All,


I thought it was appropriate with all the talk about this popular DIY screen material to canvas http://www.avsforum.com/ubb/wink.gif the group on the following:


If you have fabricated (I'm sorry, I can't help it!) your own screen using blackout fabric:


1. Are you using the cotton or vinyl side to project on?


2. Did you try both sides before settling on your present choice?


3. What display device are you using?



To get the ball rolling;


1. I'm using the vinyl side


2. I didn't try both (that's kind of why I've started the poll)


3. Barco Data 801s 8" CRT


I'm interested to hear from the rest of you on this.


Regards,


Darrin




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"Because timing is everything!"

Quote:


Fred,


Would you mind showing us some pictures or describing how you completed this project? I am very interested in making some, hahaha, real world blackout blinds that will cover the windows when I need to darken the room. I currently have the fabric stapled to the window frame and can tie them back to allow light, but I would really like to have a roll up solution that would look a little more professional. Thanks a million.


Scott

Hi All!


Thanks to everyone so far for your input! Keep it coming...


Hi Deane, thanks for your questions. I kind of thought the same things before I knew what everyone was talking about! Here's a few threads to get you started:
http://www.avsforum.com/ubb/Forum9/HTML/000183.html http://www.avsforum.com/ubb/Forum9/HTML/000274.html http://www.avsforum.com/ubb/Forum9/HTML/000258.html http://www.avsforum.com/ubb/Forum9/HTML/000307.html


The screen I made is 54"x96", and consists of the curtain blackout fabric (Vinyl side out) stretched over a frame made of 3/4" square aluminum tube, reinforced to prevent distortion during the fabric tensioning. The whole thing is light enough to pick up with your pinky! I'm using mirror brackets to hold it on the wall.


Hope it helps (and maybe gets you thinking about making one for yourself!)


Regards,


Darrin





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"Because timing is everything!"

Now I understand. Blackout fabric, not black fabric. Makes sense.


Have you tried black fabric around your picture area? Makes a massive difference in the dynamics of the image. I used black velvet since it is the least reflective fabric available. I've been able to motorized the top and bottom for various aspect ratios (I have constant width). It makes the picture look like you're looking through a window at the world when you have a totally dark room. I'm blessed with 1400 lumens which also helps.


Deane


By the way, this blackout lining stretched on a frame looks like a great screen idea. I don't suppose Da-Lite and Stewart are very excited about these threads.


[This message has been edited by Deane Johnson (edited 11-17-2000).]

Carey:


I don't mind at all sharing what I did. It's not simple and required some imagination and some minor shop work.


I am able to move both the top and bottom masks up and down by remote control. I have up to 8 pre-set positions available, but only use about 6 right now. Different buttons on an X-10 remote are assigned to different aspect ratios and it will search these out in random order, so I can go from any one to any other one in any order.


Motors are physically modified DrapeBoss units. I took the drive wheel off, turned it around so the flat side is out, drilled several holes in it and mounted it to a roller. Thus I have programmable motors on both the top mask and the bottom. I used some 1 1/2" rollers from discarded specialty shades which aren't available, so you'd have to get an extremely straight 1 1/2" dowel to use. It has to span your screen width.


The case on the DrapeBoss has to be taken apart so that the motor portion faces the screen and the electronics half faces outward so you can program it. I made a wooden mount so this would work.


Shades would have a slat in them that you pull on to raise or lower them. I used an extremely straight aspen 1 x 4 for this purpose. It's very light weight and stay straight. You simply sew a rod pocket in your fabric that this can slip through.


Next problem: Counterweights. Obviously, the bottom shade has a roller on the bottom, so something must pull that mask upward. It won't float in mid-air Eyebolts are inserted in the end of the aspen 1 x4, go up to a pully, outward a little bit to another pully and a sandbag weight is tied on the end. This on each end provides the proper tension.


Problems: The DrapeBoss unit has a slip clucth that won't hold the weight of the masking system in place without help. It slips. To solve this, I decided to make the masks absolutely weight nuetral. On the bottom you simply make the sandbag weight just right so there is slight tension on the fabric, but no more. On the top one, I wrapped a cord around the roller and put a weight on it to counter balance the weight of the top mask so it is once again weight nuetral. When these weights and counter weights are perfect it never gets out of sync.


I used black velvet for my masks. Also made frames from 1 x 2 and covered them with velvet to hide all of the motors, pullys, etc on the sides, top and bottom. When you look at my screen you see nothing but white screen and pure black for about 18" all around. Makes an awesome picture.


Negatives: Even thought the DrapeBoss is rather cheap, especially for what it is, it still takes two. That's about $400. Also, you have to be somewhat handy with some tools, including drilling the aluminum drive pullys for screws, and building mounts for the DrapeBoss units. This is definetly a DIY project and each person would have to judge their skill and appetite for such a project.


I don't anticipate this description would be enough for someone to tackle the project, but I would be happy to answer any additional questions. I hope to eventually make some close-up photos that can be used to convey the techniques.


By the way, the DrapeBoss has to have the open and close limits programmed in as a first step. I simply used the open position for 4:3 and the closed for 2.35:1. Then the intermediate stops are used for 16:9, 1.66:1 non-anamorphic, etc. It works perfectly every time.


Deane