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Bookshelf Speaker Critique please!!!

625 Views 3 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  cjd
Hey all,

Just to let you know, I'm really new to the whole building speakers thing, but I have put a couple of cabs together, and thrown various drivers in, and they sounded ok...and I've enjoyed building them. But now, I'm trying to get a little more indepth with the speaker design. I am building a pair of 2-way speakers roughly bookshelf size, to be used outside under the eves of our garage. I ran WinISD, and came up with the following:

Dayton 295-335 7" Aluminum Woofer

Volume- .4 cubic feet

Tuning-45 hz

Vent Diameter-1.5"

Vent Length- 4.76"

System Input power- 65 watts

I plan on using a 5000hz 1st order butterworth crossover to split the frequencys. I can post some screenshots of the graph if needed. My problem is that, if I don't use a high pass at 100 hz, the woofer is running out of excursion before the tuning point (so says WinISD). Also, this high pass is hurting the SPL in the lower frequencies. Can anyone critique my design for these speakers? I'm trying to get the best bass out of them that I can, as there will be no subwoofer outside, and these will be handling the full range (with a tweeter of course). Can someone help me out, or is this ok to build it with a high pass at a 100hz to limit cone excursion. As expected, the SPL graph stays higher at lower frequencies without it, but the cone runs out of excursion without it (according to WinISD). This is one of the first times I've used WinISD, and am slowly learning how to use it too. Also, could some one explain the transfer function magnitude graph, as I'm not sure on what its used for. Each enclosure will have one Dayton woofer, and probably a Pioneer tweeter. Thanks for any help.

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The Dayton 7" alu is a marginal drivers at best. It tends to "scream" at higher frequencies so it's a poor candidate for a 1st order XO. At 5kHz it's going to be beaming like mad, so you won't hear the higher frequencies off axis. Finally it's a midwoofer not a woofer, so don't expect it to play low. To reproduce bass outdoors you need BIG drivers that move a bunch of iar.
Well Thomas

Thanks for the help...I'm not really looking for audiophile quality, and I'm building them for my dad...lets just put it that he can't tell much of a difference between my Onkyo ht in a box, and a friends NHT speakers that were well over $1500. So needless to say, he's not gonna complain. I'm not looking for massive bass, just enough to hear a bass guitar and drums and such. Could you help me design this a little better? I want to stick to the Dayton 7" if I can, because using that, I figured I could build the pair for around $76-80 dollars. If you really think using the Dayton is out of question, could you recommend somthing around that price (i'm willing to spend about $25 tops per woofer...I know not much of a budget)? Also, what would you recommend for my XO? Technically I could lower the lowpass to prolly 2000-3000, because I believe the tweeters I have been looking at can go that low, but I know it wouldn't make them very happy. This is my first speaker build that is calculated, instead of slapped together. I guess if you could give me a few pointers, I'd greatly appreciate it.


BTW, I'm almost complete "slapping" together my big 3 way speaker....15" woofer, 6 1/2" mid, and a 5x12" horn tweeter....and it sounds pretty good so far....
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If you want to use that mid-woofer, toss two in a box with a robust tweeter and cross ~1400Hz 4th order or steeper. Seas TBFC might go well.

I've given that driver some thought but have found that I only like it in a 3-way crossing much lower. :)

How 'bout, Tang-Band 3" crossing around 500Hz 1st order to that Dayton?

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