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Hi all,

I'm new to the forum. I've been using the web to research and order audio parts for needs that fit my 'know how' and skill level. I'm no where close to being well adept at audio building, yet I do love a good project and trying my hand at improving my setups.

My latest undertaking is to provide some killer sound for my newly built gaming PC. I've searched a lot and have found very little conclusive information on what I'm looking for.

Here's what I have and where I want to go:
I've got a Bose 203 that has great speakers, but the fuses are blown.
I've got the skills and tools to build a new speaker box.
I'm working on a limited budget.

Where I'd like to go:
I'd like to have an amp/ or pre-amp that works like a PC setup. Meaning, I'd like the volume control on my desktop with a headphone jack that mutes the speakers when plugged in.
I'd like to have a separate powered subwoofer. My motherboard has 7.1 capability. Again, I'd like to be able to control all the speaker and sub via a wired rheostat style remote.
The idea is to have a semi-compact, yet dedicated PC setup. I have audio equipment and setups, but I'm interested in a specific unit that fits my PC needs and is easily portable.

What I'm thinking of purchasing:
I'd like to add a single tweeter between the two Bose speakers.
I'm thinking of the powered sub plate from Dayton.
I'm also considering the AD18 from SMSL.
New crossover that will support the Bose and the tweeter. The Bose and the posted tweeter are both 6 Ohm.
I can't post links because I'm new to the forum.

If anyone has done this sort of setup and has advice, please let me know. I'm open to all suggestions. My current struggle is to understand if the SMSL amp will work as a pre-amp to the Dayton sub amp.

Also, if anyone can comment on a crossover that will support the Bose and tweeter.

Cheers,
Dan


Bose 203 specs: Frequency Range
60 Hz to 16 kHz, ±3dB
203 Versions
• 6Ω, 100W (no transformer)
• 70V, 75W (transformer accessory)
Sensitivity1
84dB-SPL, 1W, 1 m
Maximum Acoustic Output2
104dB-SPL
Beamwidth (-6dB point)
Vertical: 150˚
Horizontal: 115˚
Long-Term Power Handling3
100W continuous
 

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Welcome!

Now for the business at hand . . .

I don't know what you know about speaker design, cross-over design and more of that VAST audio /electronic science-y stuff . .
It's practically a life time commitment of continued progress to be conversant

If you google around the site, you may detect not much love /respect for Bose . .

Buy
Other
Speaker
Equipment

as you seem to be venturing into "frankersprecher" territory, be prepared for not much enthusiasm

many similar threads / requests have met a wall of silence / indifference / a quick death . .

The more user friendly advice is:
Use your budget to buy a proven design for your wanted set-up.

What's in your budget!

Then while you listen to your jams, spend about 10,000 hours learning the science you need for this project . .

It is also unlikely you will not get the needed speaker parameters from Bose that will allow you to create an optimal design.

and welcome to the r
a
b
b
i
t
h
o
l
e


BWWWAAAAAAHHHHHHH.

HTH
 

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Pretty much what speaker parameters who needs them its all about great marketing and ads every where!! To me the best thing about Bose is not having Bose.
 

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The easiest and simplest thing would be to mount the tweeter externally on the 203's box, in between but off to the side of the two drivers. Make the mount so that you can adjust where the tweeter aims, and point it where it sounds best.

If you really want to create a new box, try to make sure it has the same internal volume as the original. Remove the drivers, and tape over one of the driver holes. Use something like dry, uncooked peas, corn, rice, etc. to fill the original box level to the open driver hole. Use a measuring cup to add the material, so you can find out how much it takes to fill the box. Design your new box to have the same volume (I'd guess that +/-10% accuracy should be fine).

Bose recommends EQ with this speaker. I bet they expect the EQ to boost the lows and the highs in a "smile curve". OTOH, the surprisingly low sensitivity spec *might* mean that they've already padded down the mid frequencies a bunch in an existing crossover. Since your motherboard can do 7.1, you might remove any existing passive crossover, and run separate amp channels for the existing drivers and the new tweeter. Otherwise, any EQ you add to the signal will affect your new tweeter as well as the existing drivers.

Integrating your new tweeter is going to be hit or miss. I expect you'll have to do a lot of experimentation. If there is any passive crossover from the factory, and you wish to reuse it, experimentation will include swapping out and rearranging components until you are satisfied. That gets expensive, slow, and tedious. Better to adjust the sound via software.

Without measuring what you're starting with, or what changes you're making, you might waste a lot of time and money going in the wrong direction, trying to go further than you can, or missing some good stops along the way...

Have fun!
 

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Here's what I have and where I want to go:
I've got a Bose 203 that has great speakers, but the fuses are blown.
Sounds like you're trying to do a LOT here. Have you considered selling the L+R to a nearby bar or restaurant and then starting over with the resultant funds? :eek:


I'm working on a limited budget.
Double ouch. Have you had a chance to listen to them yet? Do they in fact need the addition of a tweeter? Do you have any EQ adjustments for the higher octaves? You'd most likely be opening up a can of worms trying to re-engineer these.


I'd like to add a single tweeter between the two Bose speakers.
If you're really set on adding a tweeter I'd suggest buying two shielded tweets with a mostly high frequency response (higher freq roll-off on the low end) and start out by placing them right on top of your existing cabs (face up in the long-standing tradition of Bose's direct/reflecting doctrine ;) ). Adjust them with an L-pad. Plus make sure your amp can handle the impedance (can be matched with an appropriate L-pad). If you like them then start work on a crossover (if desired). If you REALLY like them, then just velcro/glue the tweets to the top of the existing cabs! :laugh:


I've got the skills and tools to build a new speaker box.
Sorry to be so negative but without some modicum of Design knowledge IMHO you'd be better off using an established build (lots found around these parts), or buying a DIY kit as has been suggested. Otherwise you might just end up ruining these already "great sounding" speakers!


I'm also considering the AD18 from SMSL.
Interesting unit. I'd get more info on the exact output spec to be sure if it has what you need.


My current struggle is to understand if the SMSL amp will work as a pre-amp to the Dayton sub amp.
Sounds like your PC already has an LFE out?


Not sure which particular amp you're looking at but many plate amps do have high-level (speaker level) inputs. Some have built-in speaker level crossovers and outputs (to your L+R) too.

I'd like to have an amp/ or pre-amp that works like a PC setup. Meaning, I'd like the volume control on my desktop with a headphone jack that mutes the speakers when plugged in.
My motherboard has 7.1 capability. Again, I'd like to be able to control all the speaker and sub via a wired rheostat style remote.
Don't know if I'm understanding you right but couldn't you use the front (L+R) outs to feed the SMSL, and the LFE out to feed the sub? They are line-level right? Then you could control everything from your PC desktop.

The idea is to have a semi-compact, yet dedicated PC setup... I'm interested in a specific unit that fits my PC needs and is easily portable.
Don't know what sub you have in mind, but there are a lot of 1/2 ft^3 builds (mainly auto) that might suit your purposes. And a LOT of pre-made boxes too.


Well, best of luck with your venture. Sorry I can't answer all of your questions. Maybe someone can step in with more ideas.


Cheers,
J&H
 

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The easiest and simplest thing would be to mount the tweeter externally on the 203's box, in between but off to the side of the two drivers. Make the mount so that you can adjust where the tweeter aims, and point it where it sounds best.
Oooooh yes, I like the idea of a ball-head swivel!
 
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