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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello folks, I've spent a lot of time reading this forum, and figure its now time to make my first post. I recently bought a house with an unfinished but dedicated home theater room. There are no speakers, no carpet, no screen, etc., but just drywall and some trim work. See the attached pictures below.


The room is 22 feet long and 14 feet wide. I don't really like the current riser setup, it allows really only 6 theater seats. With the current configuration, any seating on the floor will likely be too close to the screen. So I'm considering taking out the current risers and putting in just one rear riser. A sectional would be in front with theater seating on the only riser in the rear. See the link below for my design. This mix of sectional and theater seating is a good balance of comfort and use of space.


Unfortunately, the doors are in the front of the room. I don't see how I can change this, unless I want the doors to open to a riser right in front of you, which I don't.


I'm putting in the following speakers/equipment:
  • TruAudio BadBoy Series in-wall speakers
  • Epson 6500 projector
  • Vutec 123" 16x9 HD format fixed projector screen
  • Velodyne SC-IW in-wall subwoofer
  • Velodyne SC-600 subwoofer (hidden under sectional)
  • Control 4 home master remote/automation for lighting


I am going to put in acoustic curtains and acoustic wall panels after we move in, I just can't get my wife to approve this stuff so far in advance.


My questions are:
  1. What does everyone think of my redesign? (see link below )
  2. Any big reason why I should stick with the current risers?
  3. How wide should a riser typically be?
  4. Any comments on my equipment choices?


Here is the link to my redesigned theater: http://furnituredealer.planningwiz.c...66568924110820


Thanks so much!






 

gmp ht design.PDF 26.2041015625k . file
 

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Interesting, did the poor guy have to sell the home before his dream was realized!?!


Post some dimensions as it is currently. Front wall to 1st riser, front wall to 2nd riser.


I feel that you can definetely cheat a bit on the screen to first row distance, if that helps you from having to do demo. I "cheated" a whole bunch for my front row and it works for us. There are always a few people in the room that like that "front row" feel. I'm one of them!


Hard to tell from the photo, but the wall looks extra thick. Was the room isolated? or at least double sheetrock?
 

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The GOOD NEWS is it looks like you have a great space to work with and welcome you have come to the right place.


Now get to work, The attached PDF sketches do not appear to be to scale, the room is larger than drawn relative to the couch you drew. For a 22 ft long room and if the screen is front wall mounted I would do a single level 9 ft deep riser and position the back row a couple of feet in front of the back wall. That would give you a 12-13 ft viewing distance in the front row. You could probably fit 4 HT reclining chairs on the back row. I'm not a fan of sectionals for HT, but it is your space. I think every seat deserves an armrest and cup holder which a sectional does not provide.


What do you know about the HVAC for the room? are there both supplies and returns? How many of each.


Is there a location for an equipment rack and what amount of pre-wiring is in the walls?


Is there pre-wiring and/or a conduit for the power and signal sources to the projector location?


What is up with the walls?, I'm confused about all the patch work because the wall appears to have been painted or primed first. Did the previous owner remove wall treatments? the patch work does not appear to match a hole pattern so it is very odd.


Do you have any sense if he did any soundproofing and how important is keeping the sound in the theater going to be?


The existing riser design suggests he may have been thinking either 2 or 3 rows of upright true theater seats with the money seats on the first riser.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
This house was built as a spec home, and the builder ran out of money when it was 90% done. I bought it for about 25% for what they were hoping to get for it at the height of the housing bubble!


They didn't wire it for speakers before sheetrocking. They did, however, put a power outlet for the projector location. No conduit in place, retrofitting one in would be a pain, so I'll probably just run the wire and poke a few holes in the sheet rock.


All of the components will be located in a utility closet that is nearby but outside the room. This will allow for more space and keep the heat/noise out of the theater room. Hopefully my control 4 remote will work well enough that I won't need to be constantly leaving the room to go back to the equipment rack.


Its a basement room which is underground, so three sides of the room have concrete behind the sheet room, and the floor, so sound can really only escape out of the ceiling and the wall with a door.


It measures 11 feet to the first riser, and then each riser is 5.5 feet.


My wife and I really like the idea of stretching out on a sectional with a comfy padded ottoman. The theater seating in the rear can be for the guests.


I'm sorry my drawing is rather crude and not to scale, I'm working on a better diagram. I know there is a HVAC supply, not sure about the return, I'll have to check that. The walls were sheetrocked and then they did some type of decorative spackling on the outside of the sheet rock, giving it a sort of european antique look. Once its painted it will look nice (unless covered by acoustic treatments or curtains).


Thank you for the recommendation on the 7.5-8 foot riser. These 5.5 foot risers looked a bit cramped. I think I will go with a single 7.5 foot riser in the back with a sectional on the floor. How tall do you recommend a riser to be? Any suggestions appreciated!!!
 

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Use the RISER HEIGHT CALCULATOR sticky at the top of this section of the forum. Is very useful for crunching numbers quickly. Congrats on the pre-built space that just needs some tweaking to be what you want.

Greg
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3fingerbrown /forum/post/17049727


so three sides of the room have concrete behind the sheet room, and the floor, so sound can really only escape out of the ceiling and the wall with a door.

The sound will actually go into the space between the drywall and concrete and travel upstairs. The name for this is Flanking. Also the wall framing is probably fastened tightly to the ceiling joists. Therefore wall vibrations will be transferred to the ceiling joists and the floor above will become a passive radiator. If it is tile or wood it will be noticeable.


Once you get in and test out the room with your sub-woofers, if you find out that it is too loud upstairs you could add another layer or two of drywall right on top of the existing layer. You may want to read the library of articles at soundproofingcompany.com
 

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My theater is pretty similar in size (13.5'x22.5'.) Just for reference, we have two rows of 3 with the first row at 11' and the second row 6.5' back from there. However, this allows for walking space of 3 to 4 feet on both sides and the back of the second row. If you don't need space on all sides of your seating, you can easily accommodate up to 4 chairs wide (depending on the type of chair you get.)


Your double risers would easily fit 2 rows of commercial style theater seating behind your couch on the ground floor (if you don't care that your guests don't get to put their feet up) but if you want to put recliners in, I think you would be short on space.


-Suntan
 

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Yes, I would remove the lower riser if for nothing else to give the back row better viewing clearance over the 1st row of seats. Not sure how far the riser extends but you may want to extend it further depending on your seats and to give more room for rear speakers. I think the doors are fine on the side, not disturbing your view of the front wall. You may want to see about adding insulation within the walls for sound proofing and/or adding a second layer of sheetrock to the walls.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I'm not sure what the builder/owner was thinking, or if there was much thinking at all that went into this. I'd rather have two comfortable rows in this room where everyone is comfortable, than three cramped rows where nobody is comfortable. I don't see how you can fit three comfy rows in a 22 foot long room.


BigmouthinDC's had an insteresting suggestion of making a single riser that is 9 feet, and then positioning the back row a few feet from the wall. This would give the back row better sound, being offset from the wall. But I kind of like the idea of having the front row set back a little, leaving room for kids and bean bags on the floor, if need be. Also, I'm not sure if 10 feet is enough room between the first row and the TV. Not sure what I'll do here. Its funny how I thought this room was huge when I first saw it, but it seems you always want bigger!


I'm not too hyper about sound isolation for a few reasons: This room is in the basement, and all of the bedrooms are on the floor above the main floor. I don't watch movies alone, so its not a big deal. Also, the in-wall speakers have their own in-wall mdf enclosure, so that should help things a bit:

http://www.truaudio.com/products/ht-badboy-series.asp


Of course its a personal choice, but do you think a 123" screen is the right size for a 14x10 foot wall? Or would you go bigger? Keep in mind I want to have in-wall speakers on the left and right, with the center below the screen.

Where would you guys put the in-wall subwoofer in this room? The other sub will be under the couch.


Thanks!
 

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Your dimensions are exactly the same as mine. I have 7 seats with the first row on the floor at 13ft. The second row is on a 12" riser. I am not one to sit real close to the screen, which accounts for the 13' to the first row, and will sometimes sit in the back row. I could get three wide (berkline 078's) in the front row, which left me a nice path on either side to get the second row of 4 seats.


It looks like a nice room though.


I run a 114" screen and it's just the right size.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by whiskey alpha /forum/post/17053289


Your dimensions are exactly the same as mine. I have 7 seats with the first row on the floor at 13ft. The second row is on a 12" riser. I am not one to sit real close to the screen, which accounts for the 13' to the first row, and will sometimes sit in the back row. I could get three wide (berkline 078's) in the front row, which left me a nice path on either side to get the second row of 4 seats.


It looks like a nice room though.


I run a 114" screen and it's just the right size.

Whiskey Alpha- So your room goes 13 feet to the 12" riser, and then the riser goes 9 feet to the back wall? Do you have a step to your riser? Do you have your back row seats against the back wall, or offset? Thanks!
 

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12 is a big step to do all in one step. You really should have a tread in between. You don't need the tread to go across the room (the chairs will be there anyway) you just need an intermediary tread on the side where the walkway is.


-Suntan
 

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When talking about screen size it is important to distinguish what you are going to be watching most. If you are watching a lot of 2.35 format movies you want a pretty large 16:9 screen so you can get some a good width. Personally I'm migrating to a much wider 2.35 screen in my HT2.0
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3fingerbrown /forum/post/17053341


Whiskey Alpha- So your room goes 13 feet to the 12" riser, and then the riser goes 9 feet to the back wall? Do you have a step to your riser? Do you have your back row seats against the back wall, or offset? Thanks!

13' is to where your head would be, so the riser in actually a bit less than what you calculated. And I do have a stair step to get to it. I can measure the actual size of the riser tonight, but here are some pics.


Here are a couple of old pics.




A closer one of the stair
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC /forum/post/17053524


When talking about screen size it is important to distinguish what you are going to be watching most. If you are watching a lot of 2.35 format movies you want a pretty large 16:9 screen so you can get some a good width. Personally I'm migrating to a much wider 2.35 screen in my HT2.0


Big is right. Take into account what you are going to watching the most of. I too am going to a bigger screen in the new theater.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3fingerbrown;17049314[* /forum/post/0


Any comments on my equipment choices?

How much you got to spend?



Just realzed I did not answer your question. The back row is out from the wall a little over a foot. I made the riser big enough (measurements forthcoming) so you could walk by them when they were in full recline. You might try Roman (RSH) for seating. His website also gives you the dimensions for the Berkline seating. I recently had a HT meet and one of the guys said he wished he had this sort of real estate for his theater. 14x22 is a great dimension to work with, don't get discouraged by all the choices you are going to have to make during this process.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I think I'll stick with the regular 16:9 screen, and can upgrade in the future. It sounds like a 123" screen will work well, anyone go bigger with a 24'x14'x10' room?


That is another thought, leaving room to walk by when the seat is reclined... let me know how wide your riser is when you get a chance.


Thanks!
 
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