Sanyo 20HD/PLV-70 projector. The D1 is flawless in operation and I couldn't ask for a better image or audio. By the way my pj is not HDCP compliant and the DVI input is a vast improvement over component. Not only the component on the Bravo D1 but also from my not so inexpensive Pioneer progressive DVD player.
Hitachi CP-SX5500 projector with a non-HDCP DVI input. Bravo D1's 480p and 720p DVI video look great on the Hitachi after colors are adjusted. Copy protected movies play without a problem. 1080i from the Bravo does not work at all on the 5500. I believe the 5500's vga and dvi inputs want to see a progressive signal. DVI picture from the Bravo shrinks slightly in size compared to component. Component from the Bravo is almost worthless in my opinion.
I think that the HTPC has a slightly better picture due to the ability to tweak the picture with TheaterTek. The D1 has a great picture, no ringing or noticeable artifacts, just a very smooth film like image. The only thing that I can think of that Limits the D1 is the lack of color controls and features that the HTPC gives you. Also, one of my favorite features of the HTPC is the ability to save movie starts and by pass the menus on the DVD, this I will miss. What I will not miss about the HTPC is the endless hours of getting programs to work properly all to have them mysteriously stop for no reason at times.
I just wanted to let everyone know that the Bravo D1 looks very good through DVI into the ScreenPlay 7200 test unit I have in my lab.
It produces the best looking DVD playback I have seen to date.
The Bravo D1 seems to output CCIR 601 standard video which only contains brightness values from 16 to 240, and this is consistent with the mastering of the DVD so this is fine. However, to take advantage of the full contrast ratio of the projector both brightness and contrast need to be adjusted. You can do this by setting brightness to 44 and contrast to 55.
If you are comfortable with the advanced menus, then I suggest instead of using the brightness and contrast control that you use the color offsets and gains. The brightness and contrast controls for the DVI input operate in 8 bits, while the color controls operate in 10 bits. So for the ultimate performance, leave brightness and contrast at 50, 50, and set the color offsets to 39 and the color gains to 66. This should eliminate any contouring due to loss of bit depth.
Fortunately, we had two DVI-equipped home theater products on hand?the Yamaha LPX-500 LCD front projector and the 32-inch Sony plasma TV we tested in April?which enabled us to put the V Inc. player to the ultimate video-quality test.
...the Yamaha (LCX-500) projector mentioned earlier accepted DVI signals only in the 720p format, while the Sony plasma TV displayed all of the Bravo D1's DVI formats. But to get the picture to come out right on the Sony (with perfect circles and no overscan), I had to separately tweak the set's picture geometry for each format using its onscreen menus.
What does video from a DVI-connected player look like? Well, if you have a recent, fast PC with a DVI-connected LCD monitor, a DVD drive, and a good DVD playback program, you know that very high-quality video is possible. Rarely have I been able to offer such praise, but the Bravo D1 delivered perfect picture geometry and superb conversion of the interlaced video on DVDs to progressive-scan format. And since the D1 is a dedicated DVD player, you won't experience those herky-jerky hesitations that often mar DVD playback on computers. And you certainly won't get any Windows error screens or annoying Instant Message interruptions.
Using the DVI connection, the Bravo D1 delivered superb images to both the Yamaha projector and Sony plasma TV. Details were as sharp as I've ever seen them from a DVD. And the progressive-scan conversion was excellent, with no color-smearing and no line breaks or flickering with moving diagonal lines and grids.
The thin lines in the faces of the characters in Treasure Planet were a useful test here, while the movie as a whole provided a good demonstration of the DVI output's ability to faithfully convey image texture. For example, the tension between traditional low-res cell animation (the flat-looking people) and modern high-res computer graphics (the almost 3-D flying objects and some of the backgrounds) has never been more apparent. It's one of this film's most fascinating visual features?as well as dramatically distracting and frustrating. It's like seeing two parallel animation universes simultaneously.
Thanks to its DVI output, the Bravo D1 delivers reference-quality DVD images for only $200. If the DVD licensing rules allowed it, I could imagine future models without any analog outputs that would be even less expensive. Then the burden of picture quality would fall solely on the TV and how well it's set up, which is as it should be.
Everyone that has viewed my setup has left my home with their jaws wide open.
I used Toy Story 2 to demo, along with Matrix 2 trailer, encoded at various HD resolutions.
I've watched Christmas Vacation and Caddyshack and would rate the results as 8 (both were full screen versions, so I had to zoom via the DVD player) - The Sammy does a wonderfull job of removing noise and smoothing.
TS2, Top Gun, and Matrix would rate 12 out of 10. I have nothing bad to report and can honesly say that my expectations have been exceeded greatly!
I too have the Studio Experience 20HD/clone of the Sanyon PLV-70.
I echo JimmyR's sentiments.
This is what I posted elsewhere as to performance:
How did it look? Best looking DVD image I can imagine (certainly the best DVD image I've ever seen), looked better than DVD, but that's what it was. Watched VE to calibrate before watching (easiest brightness and contrast calibration I've ever done) though brightness was much lower than usual (24 when default is 32) and contrast was much much much higher than usual (47 when default is 32). Then watched the VE video montage several times. Sure, it looked better than ever before. But then watched superbit 5th Element and Air Force One. Those looked to be 80% of the best HD, and better than a whole lot of HD. So what does that mean. It means it looked HD. Switched back and forth with same disc to RP-91. Substantial loss of detail and color was the most obvious difference. I jacked up the color and sharpness. That recovered some of the punch, but of course sharpness just creates more noise. It was a poor substitute. This is the next level. If this is what HTPC guys have been watching for years, then I apologize for being so lazy as to avoid that. It really is a big difference. Really.
The D1 feeds my Toshiba 57HLX82 at all of the output formats. The picture is very good at 720p and 1080i. I left the player at 1080i and just let the TV do the work to make it 1080p since that is what the TV converts everything to.
A forum community dedicated to home theater owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about home audio/video, TVs, projectors, screens, receivers, speakers, projects, DIY’s, product reviews, accessories, classifieds, and more!