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Has this ever happened to anyone, if so, is this something that can be easily fixed or is this something that the unit has to be sent back to Pioneer to have fixed? Seems the optical input still works, just won't hold the fiber optic cable in the input. From what I understand, the units that have the door/flap are designed to help hold the cable in place, without the door, the cable falls out of the input.
 

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This has happened to me as well, albeit on a Sony ES. Those doors are pretty flimsy. I don't know of any other way to properly fix one other then to send it to the factory. I didn't bother, as I was able to get my cable to stay in place well enough without it (falls out pretty easy, but as long as I don't mess around back there it's ok). Still, it's annoying and I wish those little doors were more sturdy!
 

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Someone had this problem recently and was able to find some sort of optical cable that "gripped" the input better. I think it lacked the "directional" shape and nub that most optical cables have and could be inserted easily in any orientation. I have no idea how to find the thread it was in.
 

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I just managed to break 2 of these doors off my new Denon receiver... maybe because of the cheap cable I was using. On mine, it looks like a replacement flap can be slid down from the top of the Toslink socket without opening the receiver case - in fact, I was able to seat the broken flap back in position, but it wouldn't stay because a hinge pin had broken off. If the Denon service department won't send me a few of these flaps, I may order some Toslink receiver sockets from Digi-key and take the flaps out of them. The Toshiba TORX177 looks like a match for me, and they're really cheap. Hopefully the Toslink sockets are close enough that the shutters are interchangeable.
 

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Denon wouldn't send me the flaps, so I got them from www.digikey.com . The model I ordered was:


Toshiba TORX147LFT-ND Receiver Mod Fiber Optic W/Shut


This is an entire component that can be soldered to the circuit board (don't worry - they're only $1.63 each). I used needle nose pliers to break them open and extract the flaps. The flaps fit right into my Denon 3808, and now it is as good as new.


I found it is easiest to get the flaps into the receiver by putting in one hinge pin, getting the tab on the back of the flap under the "closer" spring in the socket, then pushing the flap up and "over" to put the 2nd hinge pin in. The little spring that holds the flap closed prevents you from just dropping the flap in from the top.
 

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Well this sounds a bit risky. Could you expand more on the replacment technique? They look to me like you could spread the terminal a bit, like with hemostats, something, stick one side of the flap's pin in and then pop the other side in. But the pins seem to break easily. Pictures?


By the way I've talked to an authorized service guy about fixing mine and he said the problem is optical cables with heavy ends that make the cable appear bulky, heavy duty, pricey. The flap/terminal are not designed to carry the weight of these ends. According to him with a little pressure on the cable along with the weight of the end, the flap snaps at the pins. He said they get calls on this alot but don't fix that many cause the cost. There is no way to easily change just the inlet/outlet terminal. To stay within parameters for "authorized service" they have to replace the module piece the terminals are attached to. My Pioneer is designed that way, its "plug and play". Unplug the module that has the terminals on it, plug new one it, button it back up. Problem is cost covers the module. So for the one flap broken on mine, the estimated cost is 150. I'd have a new module board for whatever this piece does, some of the d-a conversion, but 150 +/- for a little flap? Hard to justify.
 

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Just ordered 6 of them. I need to get one swapped out. I'm sitting here laughing in my head as their purchasing person is going to wonder what is going on. Suddenly a bazillion orders for optical terminals......


After looking at the various spec sheets it seems to me these things shoud be able to be unsoldered and resoldered. I guess you'd have to make sure you get the right one but that shouldn't be all that hard. Not like i want to solder anything in my receiver but for the repair guy one would have to wonder. For me its not warrant service so I don't really care if he has to repair it vs. replace it.
 

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And Bill, THANK YOU for the link. Very considerate and helpful. Thanks for taking the time and interest to post it.
 

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I assume for those people that aren't fixing yours you just put the optical cable in and hold it in place with a piece of tape so it doesn't fall out? Also...mine didn't break off until I pulled it out...like nicer, newer, optical cables grab more or something. I find it sad that only cheap, light, optical cables are being preferred. Is there a technique now for removing these cables without breaking the door? I'm thinking use a pin to push the door before you pull the cable out?
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by jsmiddleton4 /forum/post/12868591


Well this sounds a bit risky. Could you expand more on the replacment technique? They look to me like you could spread the terminal a bit, like with hemostats, something, stick one side of the flap's pin in and then pop the other side in. But the pins seem to break easily. Pictures?


By the way I've talked to an authorized service guy about fixing mine and he said the problem is optical cables with heavy ends that make the cable appear bulky, heavy duty, pricey. The flap/terminal are not designed to carry the weight of these ends. According to him with a little pressure on the cable along with the weight of the end, the flap snaps at the pins. He said they get calls on this alot but don't fix that many cause the cost. There is no way to easily change just the inlet/outlet terminal. To stay within parameters for "authorized service" they have to replace the module piece the terminals are attached to. My Pioneer is designed that way, its "plug and play". Unplug the module that has the terminals on it, plug new one it, button it back up. Problem is cost covers the module. So for the one flap broken on mine, the estimated cost is 150. I'd have a new module board for whatever this piece does, some of the d-a conversion, but 150 +/- for a little flap? Hard to justify.

I was able to get the flaps in place with barely any pressure on the pins. Digikey will send a part thst looks like this:



To get the flap out of this part, I grabbed one side of the socket with needle nose pliers and pulled it out to the side. The plastic housing bent, and the flap fell out of the component.


To get it into the Denon, I didn't even have to open its case. The sockets are made so the hinge pins ride in slots, and the flap can just be slid down over the opening from the top (like a "guillotine") except that there is a little retaining spring (its just a tiny piece of sheet metal) that will tend to catch on a tab on the back of the flap and pop the flap back up and out if you do this. To get past this little spring, I put the left hinge pin in its slot first, guided the tab on the flap under the retaining spring, then gently pushed the right side hinge pin up and over so it could fall into its slot.


There's absolutely nothing to solder, and I never had to apply much pressure at all to the flap. I definitely didn't have to do anything that would bend or distort the plastic on anything.
 

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Bill,


I noticed that too. That's why I wonder why IF the part can be ordered why the repair tech can't replace it. I understand why they can't if to be an authorized dealer they have to agree not to repair certain types of parts. I get it. But this is not warranty service.


I've looked closely at mine as well and can see how to pop one in, my guess is when assembled the flap, digikey's sight calls them "shutters", just pops in. But there's figuring out how a thing works AND doing the thing. Those are 2 very different things.


I can't see all of the adapter without taking the unit apart and I'm not going to do so yet. The shutters (
) look the same. I can solder and not a total rookie. If it looks like this is simple job, couple of contact points on the circut board with the clip in support brackets, I might try that myself.


"retaining spring (its just a tiny piece of sheet metal)"


Edit: Bill it looks like there are only a few different designs for this part. I guess I could order a couple of each, they aren't very expensive, and take them and the unit into the repair place and ask them SINCE I have the parts, can they fix it?


I used the word prong to describe it. Little piece of metal that provides resistance against the shutter to hold the cable end in place.
 

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Mike,


Nice to see you here.


"I find it sad that only cheap, light, optical cables are being preferred."


I don't think the tech would describe it that way. The optical cable's job is to pass light. There is no need for heavy shielding or heavy ends. That is marketing. That doesn't mean you want cheap. It just means you don't need stuff that adds nothing to signal carrying capability but instead puts unnecessary stress on parts like this jack. Its goofed from the get go. I agree. With this experience I now prefer the type with the filler plug, not this little shutter. However there is no way to look at this kind of part, decide not to buy a piece of equipment because of the shutter and not sound like a total loser geek. Can you imagine the look when you ask the salesman to turn the unit around and tell him your aren't going to buy it cause the optical ports have shutters! That would be a hoot.


"aso...mine didn't break off until I pulled it out..."


I had to think about that for a moment. When I was looking at the what I eventually picked up as a new unit, the Yamaha 1800, I did bring up my Pioneer port breaking. He didn't really hear what I was saying except that he tried to sell me the new Monster Cable with the new spring loaded, grips better, solid contact that stays put longer, cable. I wonder if that is going to be a problem as you have noted. Its when you pull the cable out the flap breaks.
 

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Exactly...It was a Monstercable optical that did it. The connector on the cable is still made of plastic, and not weighted. Heavy connectors include the premium ones sold by Monoprice. I've noticed that even though it costs more (although I did get a very good deal on mine) there is increased clarity in my sound now. I also agree that it grips a lot harder, which may be good or bad. I'll just be very careful when removing them to try not to break the door. If it does break I assume you can just use a little electrical tape to keep it from inadvertantly falling out. I also agree with you...I like the plug connector, such as what Oppo uses.


Also, as mentioned before...look at the flaps on your device before ordering extras. My cable box and Onkyo receiver use the ones that Bill just bought (Toshiba) I think Panasonic uses even a third type. The Sharp one actually looks like it is less likely to break.
 

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The little piece of tape has worked for me. Keeps the shutter from getting lost. Holds well enough that the cable stays in.


I have the 12 foot optical from monoprice. This one:

http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2


Works fine. Ends light weight enough that there is no pulling on the terminal.
 

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Wanted to thank you again Bill for posting the link for a supplier for these shutter/flaps.


Mine from the outside and by looking at the flaps are the unit you posted. I did not want to take the whole thing apart to be sure but where the screw is placed, markings on the flap, etc., all make it seem like the pictured piece is the right one. (See attached picture).


I ordered 6 and used 4 to get this done. The pin piece breaks easily. I ended up using 2 tools to insert the new one. As you noted you have to pop one side in first, then slip the other in the socket/slot/hole. I tried it 3 times with using a small pair of hemostats on just the shutter. Broke the pin when slipping it in each time. The fourth time I used a small long pair of needle nose pliers and spread the socket just a little bit which allowed the pin on the shutter to pop in. The socket had some give in it and returned to the original width quickly. I did squeeze the socket back to make sure it was tight against the shutter. Plugged in optical cable, unplugged, replugged, etc., a few times t make sure it works. It works great. If looking at it one would not know the shutter had broken. If after the fourth one if it hadn't of worked I was going to stake the 1015 apart. Which while I can solder carefully, I'm not sure it would look untouched. I of course would have made sure it worked but, well you know.


Took the picture up close with macro type shot. It looks way more beatup than it is. The scratches are barely noticable. In the picture they really stand out.


Thanks again.


Edit: Here is picture from a little further back.

 

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Thanks Bill. The one that looks the best is actually the new one. I have to remind myself which one I changed. Since I also bent the prong out a bit, more into the center of the socket, it now has a little more tension on it and feels much more solid with the cable inserted. I really don't want to take the receiver apart but I'd bet it is the same socket. And from the looks of it the solder points are the three pins on the bottom of the terminal and probably is an easy full swap. If I was going to take that risk, I'd probably see if the filler plug-in type terminal is available and get away from the shutter type for all three optical ports, the 2 in, the one out, and be done with it.


I just know that no matter how careful I am, one of these copper screws will get its slots rounded or scratched, something, and when reassembled it will not look as good as it does now.


The Pioneer 1015 has been such a great unit and still is that it deserves to look as good as it can.


Thanks again.
 

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Thanks for this most useful thread. I was hooking up my new Denon 4308 this weekend. Went to unplug the new Series 600 Monster Cable Toslink cable, and had it rip the shutters off each of the units to which it was connected.


I was able to reattach the shutter to the 5 year old obsolete-but-still-useful DVR, so no harm done, but it broke the shutter hinge pin on my 2-day old $2500 amp . Was looking all over the net for someone with a similar experience, and finally found this thread. Looks like everybody breaks them, but this was the only thread where I learned where to buy replacements. Thank you, thank you, thank you!


--Gene
 
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