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For anyone else reading this in the future. I simply applied a small amount of hot glue to the cable to hold it. Works perfectly and it is easily taken off with some pressure.
 

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Sorry to bring the thread back but I've searched online for hours and called a number of repair/parts stories locally and I can't find a replacement part for the damn door/hinge thing... Mine broke off from my samsung hdtv optic audio. Has anyone found any replacement or part that can substitute it. The one posted on this thread from digi key isn't in stock and I can't find it anywhere else.
 

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Not sure if this will help but:


I had the broken door issue on a tv of mine. The Toslink cable would not stay seated. I used a bit of hot glue (not on the optical part of the cable obviously) and the cable stays put and it all works great.


It's a quick fix that works long term if you will simply have the same cable plugged in like me.
 

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I was thinking of doing that but I would be unplugging/changing the cables from time to time so I don't know about actually gluing tr cable to the tv. Is there no other part that would have the stupid door?
 

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I am looking for one of the TORX177LFT-ND parts as well to replace a broken TOSLINK Optical Audio Port. Pulled a cord out crooked while arranging my system in the audio cabinet


Digi-Key no longer stocks this...


Need it for a Denon Receiver. Anyone have any other part numbers???


Thanks!
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by montl /forum/post/21798093


I am looking for one of the TORX177LFT-ND parts as well to replace a broken TOSLINK Optical Audio Port. Pulled a cord out crooked while arranging my system in the audio cabinet


Digi-Key no longer stocks this...


Need it for a Denon Receiver. Anyone have any other part numbers???


Thanks!

When I bought some in early 2011 I got them from digi key, at that time they had over 5000 in stock, I see they now have none. Can they not special order you some?
 

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The problem with just using tape is that it stretches and you spend a lot of time fiddling with alignment. I used a couple of skinny cylindrical rare-earth magnets, taped them to the cable and then let the magnets grab the metal surrounding the input. The cables are still removable but once lined up tend to stay lined up. A terrible kluge fix but cheaper than $150 service charge. The nitwits at Monster Cable should be shot. The fiber-optic cable is no bigger than fine fishing line. All the extra cladding they stick on it does NO GOOD at all and routinely breaks TOSLINK ports. Mine broke the plastic frame in addition to the door. I was an electronics technician for more than ten years and an electronics engineer for ten more. Buy the skinniest, cheapest cable you can find. It's DIGITAL, folks.
 

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Bringing this thread back to life. Broke the Toslink flap on Panasonic ZT TV when moving equipment around. Suggestion of gluing a right angle Toslink adapter into the port should work fine. And this should work out better than what I was using since the Toslink port is on the side of my ZT. Really dislike the Toslink connections. I've broken the flaps before and I'm sure this won't be the last Toslink flap that I break.
 

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According to Digi-Key, the Toshiba TORX177LFT-ND, has been replaced with DigiKey's p/n 1080-1432-ND, which is Everlight p/n PLR135/T9, a member of Everlight's PLR135 family. There are 2 others in the family: PLR135/T (Digi-Key 1080-1431-ND), and PLR135/T10 (Digi-Key 1080-1433-ND). From the Everlight datasheets, it looks like the /T9 and /T10 do have flaps, and the /T does not. -- it uses a little rubber (?) plug to seal the hole when the cable is unplugged. It's altogether a better idea, so if I elect to replace the receiver altogether I'll replace it with the new Everlight /T part, whose mechanical and electronic specs seem to be compatible. The /T10 looks like it has 5 pins, not 3, so I'm disqualifying it.

I found some TORX177LFT-NDs on eBay, shipping from Hong Kong. So I ordered 2, hoping I could replace the flap with only breaking one replacement out of the 2. I've also ordered a 10' Monoprice cable to replace the Premium, Razz-ma-tazzy cable I broke the flap with, so in a couple of weeks I may have some good news. Or not. For now, the bad cable is staying in the receiver OK.

Update: Looking at the parts I've accumulated so far, I've decided it would be better to replace the whole thing rather than trying to squeeze a new flap into the old one. Then, as a bonus, I can replace it with a flapless one. So, I've ordered a couple Digi-Key 1080-1431-NDs, which have the same circuit-board layout, and appear to be otherwise identical to, the TORX177LFT-NDs I received from Hong Kong. I found the Samsung service manual (my problem child is a UN50JS7000 TV) online, and it looks like the optical jack (Samsung p/n 3707-001106) is easily accessible and doesn't require any fancy desoldering/soldering equipment. That Samsung part is orderable, but apparently not obtainable, from Best Buy.

Way more information than I thought I'd find on this, explaining why there are so many p/ns for this seemingly common part at: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/parts/217696-optical-s-pdif-transcievers-toslink-3-5mm-mini.html

Thanks to all who have given advice here. While it's good to learn from your mistakes, it's a whole lot better to learn from others' :).
 
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