AVS Forum banner

1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
All,

Whelps... just starting initial planning stages for my basement build. Basement will at minimum include an exercise room and a dedicated theater room. I plan to do a room in a room and you can see the two layers of 2x4 stud walls. Except for one side which is mostly covered in a hill. Just looking for any thoughts that the experienced people on this forum might have.

You can see where I was planning on putting the screen. On the left side opposite the door to get the most real estate. I was thinking about going a 12 foot screen and doing a AT screen but the calculators show recommended viewing distance of about 18 feet. That would mean not much space behind as I was thinking of putting a wet bar on the wall with the door along with maybe some bar stool seating and building a hideable WFH office (theoretical) in an cavity in front of the bar stool seating. Reason being we have little kids and while I love them it is very distracting hearing them scream and run around all day. So I wanted to build an office type space in my sound proof theater room. Any thoughts about this space I have ear marked for the dedicated theater.

First post so happy to even be starting to talk about this and make some magic happen

Any guidance for what to do on the door areas with a room in a room design? I have read a fair amount but haven't seen much surrounding that. I know probably looking at a good solid door but don't know about how to make it look right with such a large gap from interior wall to interior wall. The exercise room side already has a 2x6 wall there so it would be 5.5 inch or so with an inch between plus the 3.5 inch 2x4 and .5 inch drywall on both sides so that's about a 9.5 inch gap to bridge there.

Thanks,

Scott
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Similar size to my HT. I think 12' wide might be a bit much... also consider image height. How tall are your ceilings? 10' wide is nice.
Yeah I was thinking 12' might be too wide because screen height itself would be 6' 9". However, I do have 8' 3'' to the bottom of my floor joists. So I would certainly lose some space to the ceiling support and the drywall. Is it generally recommended to use 2x6's for the ceiling support structure? If I do need 2x6 for the ceiling that is a loss of about 6 inch assuming that I am not doing DD. Assuming losing 7 inches of space.. 6 plus 1 inch for isolation then I would be down to about 7' 8" and a 12 inch wide screen is 6' 9" tall... would leave me only 11 inches of space to work with above or below... assuming below the screen. I suspect I wouldn't want the screen touching the top of the ceiling too :) a 10 foot screen would be only about 5.5 ' tall so that would leave me just over 2' of vertical play in the placement of the screen.

Can you switch the door to swing into the storage area?
I was just thinking that exact same thing tonight as I was looking at the picture. There is no reason I can't swing it into the storage area and that might not be the exact placement but it would be pretty close in position.

Where does everyone stand with DD when you are doing a room in a room? Would it make that much difference doing it over not doing it. I was just planning on using half inch sheetrock. Is the general consensus that you need minimum 2x6s to support the celing or is it recommended more.

Thanks,

Scott
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
I dont see any way to edit my post above but I found our building code which basicaly states I would at least need 2x6s for 16 inch spacing with a 14 foot span.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
16,376 Posts
If I do need 2x6 for the ceiling that is a loss of about 6 inch assuming that I am not doing DD. Assuming losing 7 inches of space.. 6 plus 1 inch for isolation...
Why are you doing RnR instead of CC+DD+GG (clips and channel, double drywall with greenglue)?

Why aren't you recessing the RnR joists within (but still not contacting) the existing joists?


I was just planning on using half inch sheetrock.
Why? To save $1.50 since you're calling this a "budget build"? You still want mass. Go with 5/8".
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Why are you doing RnR instead of CC+DD+GG (clips and channel, double drywall with greenglue)?
Well I thought from what I looked at that CC+DD+GG was more expansive than me just doing a room in a room. But I actually haven't calculated the cost at this point. Also the fact that it is fairly easy for me to do a room in a room in this space because there isn't anything here yet. From what I read RnR is better sound proofing but after reviewing the page I used to find this information out I missed that they also still suggested DD+GG. Although I just read something somewhere that said RnR was better and they did not recommend DD+GG in a RnR setup. So there is a little bit of conflicting evidence on this. Certainly open to suggestions.

Why aren't you recessing the RnR joists within (but still not contacting) the existing joists?
I have some duct work in the ceiling/floor joists. I suppose I could drop the ceiling down in those areas. Unless I do that it would not be able to put the ceiling support there. I certainly like the idea for not losing alot of ceiling space. But I also need to run new HVAC into the room etc so I assume I will need to plan for that as well.

Why? To save $1.50 since you're calling this a "budget build"? You still want mass. Go with 5/8".
Point noted. I didnt really do it because of cost. I just started with 1/2 forgetting about 5/8. But cost wise the 5/8 firecode core sheetrock is 7.68 locally vs 7.24 locally for the "UltraLight 1/2 inch" sheetrock. So I guess cost isnt really a factor.

Cost is going to be a factor for me. I need to save my money for this build and it will probably take a while unless financially things get alot better. I can save 40 dollars a week towards this project. As well as sell things around the house that I have that I don't need. So I will be shopping and looking for good deals but first I will be planning out as much as I can in the mean time with regards to the build.

Appreciate the help.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
So. I have cleared out the space for this build. I will be temporarily having a PJ and some painted drywall to use as a screen. I was looking to build the room out. I have only 8 foot ceilings and have decided to use recessed whisper clips to build out the ceiling.



I will continue to use RnR for the remainder of the room. Does anyone see a problem with doing clips for the ceiling but RnR for the remainder of the space. I know I read that typically you use the same for all walls for sound reasons but I am on a super tight budget here and am hoping that this works. Unless I get other suggestions for the ceiling. I read that it was also suggested putting DD+GG in between the floor joists to help block the sound travel from basement to first floor. If I do that is there a more cost effective way (resilient channel?) to decouple the ceiling rather than going whisper clips? Being budget minded. I have 40 dollars per week to go towards this project if I go whisper clips for the ceiling then I would have to save for about 12 weeks to get just the clips for the ceiling. This doesn't include saving for the drywall, greenglue, and framing members for the side walls etc and all the other things that go into a dedicated theater.

As you can see I have a long way to go which is why I am making the room usable and building the room around a temporary usable space. Right now the room is open on the north wall. I have a fair amount of 2x4 from some shelves that the previous owner created so I almost have enough wood to create that north wall. So that is my first step to close off the room.

Thoughts suggestions etc?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,738 Posts
Subscribed, looking to do a similar budget build in the future! Good luck.
 

·
RETIRED theater builder
Joined
·
34,673 Posts
Whisper clips are the BMW of clips, The IB1 is the Toyota, you would save 6 weeks. They will work just fine.

On the walls I'm not sure of your local cost for lumber but run the numbers, framing a RnR way cost more then putting IB1 on the walls with channel. it would save space as well.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
934 Posts
Whisper clips are the BMW of clips, The IB1 is the Toyota, you would save 6 weeks. They will work just fine.

On the walls I'm not sure of your local cost for lumber but run the numbers, framing a RnR way cost more then putting IB1 on the walls with channel. it would save space as well.
This^. The IB1 clips work great and will save a bunch of cash. I think it's Soundproofing Company's best seller too.
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top