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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just dropped in after a couple years away from the fun to say hi to my old alchemist light bending snake oil peddling friends and check out the new comers and what was being played with. So a big hi to my Cajun Buddy MM and good to see PB is still posting split screens and prof55 is shutting them down when science comes in conflict with proclamations. It’s good to see everyone is doing well and not much has changed. One of the sad parts of internet interaction is when you get to know folks on line and if they stop posting you sometimes never know where they went. It was always fun tossing around ideas and debating.

I’m a bit surprised and pleased with the monster flat panel TV’s out there today there is still a steadfast following of front projection. I recently moved and built a new media room in the new house I have been restoring an old 1895 Victorian. With me moved the XR10X still the light canon it was so many years ago and still running flawlessly. The room was dimensionally challenged so I ran the projector backwards and off a mirror to stretch the throw and I’m having great results in doing such. The pre tensioned canvas screen sadly stayed behind but was as tight as a drum skin still. For a new screen I had the ability in the restoration of building a new wall for the screen so I went with painted drywall. Sorry guys I didn’t check in to see what was the latest metallic concoction and I’m surprised with the new crop of high lumen high contrast machines anyone is still worried about gain. I did however experiment with this screen and you old timers that know me will know I was shooting for low gain and neutral gray ambient fighting texture lover screen. This time I experimented with a pretty dark surface, guessing at a gain of about .6 and I found a really great way to get a micro texture with a roller. Not the orange peel surface that passed for latex texture for the non-canvas users on drywall but a really crisp dispersive micro texture. I made my normal simple gray with white base and lamp black and added poly to correct surface sheen and then I experimented with mixing in drywall compound to thicken the soup and allow drying to a toothy surface.

YES I did say roller applied, lol. In my old age I thought I would give it a try. I used pretty much Tiddler’s down rolling method and the thick goop went on quite easy without any signs of being rolled. I nicknamed the mix BudMudd.

The image is actually quite nice and it possesses the open window aspect every bit as nice as the old canvas screen. I don’t have screen shots they always get disputed anyway and are meaningless. I did my trademark black ceiling and this time I painted the whole room with the BudMudd mix minus the poly. The room sucks up stray light almost like black velvet.

Anyway I read the first 15 or so threads thru to get a feeling for the spirit of the forum these days. For the new guys don’t forget neutral gray is white with the brightness turned down it eats lumens from the projector in the same proportions it eats ambient light it projects the full spectrum white to black. Don’t forget screens are passive and don’t make light and if you have gain it has to be at the expense of directing more light to the center seats and less to the wings. Always remember how foot lamberts work and if the screen is less efficient and the projector is brighter the result is the same. And most important of all is try and understand what is perception of contrast. Your eyes will adjust around 22f stops in their ability to control what you see in terms of contrast.

Great to say Hi! Now you can return to your normally scheduled programing.

PS: I haven’t tried it but I bet BudMudd White would make a good white screen for those that like white.
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