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Discussion Starter #21
Grab some IXLs from Mach 5. Build a couple Marty subs and have fun.
Those look decent! is there a certain Marty sub box that would best suit them? The 'roundover series' look sharp

I am just looking at the GSGAD website now as that's the only spot I have found 'marty sub' boxes.
 

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I'd suggest finding a friend with better woodworking skills, or developing your own. ;)

You wouldn't need all the things you listed... certainly not a drill press or table saw. You technically could do every cut with a jigsaw, or even a plunge router, a solid guide (could be a 2x4), and some clamps. A circle guide can be made with a paint stir-stick and a few screws, mason line, or even a fishing leader. Not having every tool $ can buy can make you get really creative with what you already have.

Don't overthink this... easy to do, but truly not necessary. You can do it yourself. Lots of good people here willing to help. Personally, I wouldn't even ask for any loons. :D Not that they're worth anything here. :eek:

This is all IMO, and YMMV
Joseph
 

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Discussion Starter #23
I am kind of liking the IXL-18.

Canadian company, no customs, duties or other fees attached - is it a better sub than the PA460?

I see through searching that there is a box design for the IXL-18....something like this with a cut list on building would be a huge help! (unless this box is golden) flared ports steal my heart though.



I'd suggest finding a friend with better woodworking skills, or developing your own. ;)

You wouldn't need all the things you listed... certainly not a drill press or table saw. You technically could do every cut with a jigsaw, or even a plunge router, a solid guide (could be a 2x4), and some clamps. A circle guide can be made with a paint stir-stick and a few screws, mason line, or even a fishing leader. Not having every tool $ can buy can make you get really creative with what you already have.

Don't overthink this... easy to do, but truly not necessary. You can do it yourself. Lots of good people here willing to help. Personally, I wouldn't even ask for any loons. :D Not that they're worth anything here. :eek:

This is all IMO, and YMMV
Joseph
Good advice, thank you! My step dad has more tools, I was spit balling, lol. I have jack crap and no room - garage full :(
 

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No idea on the IXL ... that's that WinISD is for... freeware, and again, an opportunity to expand your own knowledge base. ;)

This is the DIY forum. So there is some aspect of doing it yourself. :) It's a very simple, but very good program, developed, and updated by another DIY contributor. Well worth the curve. Again, lots of people, myself included, willing to help you expand on your knowledge base, as you do.

As always, IMO, and YMMV
Joseph

pre-emptive edit... you won't be spoon-fed here.
 

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I actually had home depot make all my cuts on their vertical track saw, I don't have a table saw or track saw yet. All you need in terms of tools to build subs is either a brad nailer or clamps, glorious clamps. I wasn't blown away with my pair of VBSS, they produce what I will call foundational bass, it somehow improves your main speaker's sound, there is something about the bass being put back into the mix that improves the overall sound. I thought the VBSS would have more gut pounding bass but it was really more a low frequency monster, it shook EVERYTHING. I didn't really appreciate what they did until I sold them (I thought I was moving into a downtown condo). I think had I spent more time with them and/or had a bigger amp than my inuke1000 I would have grown to really love them. I now have to rely on my Signet SP200 which is a 15 year old 15" sub. My signet sub was great for its day, I spent a huge amount of time listening to every commercial sub I could at the time. The VBSS dwarfs the Signet in every way.

At the end of the day commercial subs aren't doing anything magical, they are using the same drivers and amps we have access to or they are using cheaper stuff that what we ignore. They are limited by shipping and aesthetics that we aren't. If you spend the same amount of money on parts that a commercial sub is at retail you will get better sound, just stick to a known design and don't try to redesign the wheel.

Personally I really do miss what a MBM can do, so I have a pair of 15" MBM from DIYsound group on order, I will then decide if i want to add a pair of 21" or a single 24" next year for LFE.
 

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Discussion Starter #26 (Edited)
No idea on the IXL ... that's that WinISD is for... freeware, and again, an opportunity to expand your own knowledge base. ;)

This is the DIY forum. So there is some aspect of doing it yourself. :) It's a very simple, but very good program, developed, and updated by another DIY contributor. Well worth the curve. Again, lots of people, myself included, willing to help you expand on your knowledge base, as you do.

As always, IMO, and YMMV
Joseph

pre-emptive edit... you won't be spoon-fed here.
I used to dabble in that program 15 years ago (huge car stereo buff) but can't remember crap anymore but will to learn!

I actually had home depot make all my cuts on their vertical track saw, I don't have a table saw or track saw yet. All you need in terms of tools to build subs is either a brad nailer or clamps, glorious clamps. I wasn't blown away with my pair of VBSS, they produce what I will call foundational bass, it somehow improves your main speaker's sound, there is something about the bass being put back into the mix that improves the overall sound. I thought the VBSS would have more gut pounding bass but it was really more a low frequency monster, it shook EVERYTHING. I didn't really appreciate what they did until I sold them (I thought I was moving into a downtown condo). I think had I spent more time with them and/or had a bigger amp than my inuke1000 I would have grown to really love them. I now have to rely on my Signet SP200 which is a 15 year old 15" sub. My signet sub was great for its day, I spent a huge amount of time listening to every commercial sub I could at the time. The VBSS dwarfs the Signet in every way.

At the end of the day commercial subs aren't doing anything magical, they are using the same drivers and amps we have access to or they are using cheaper stuff that what we ignore. They are limited by shipping and aesthetics that we aren't. If you spend the same amount of money on parts that a commercial sub is at retail you will get better sound, just stick to a known design and don't try to redesign the wheel.

Personally I really do miss what a MBM can do, so I have a pair of 15" MBM from DIYsound group on order, I will then decide if i want to add a pair of 21" or a single 24" next year for LFE.
Thank you for the info!

I am going for that low freq but also a decent punch with music - I want my dads jaw to drop when the kick comes in on as he used to have a pretty awesome set up and my current Velodyne cht-12 isn't quite as loud. Hotel California's live Acoustic.

I assume a pair of these VBSS will eat my CHT-12?
 

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If you were local I could sell you my inuke with the VBSS programming already done ! Hehe I am considering throwing my MBM onto my 7ch ATI 200w amp. The inuke wouldn't be enough for a 21 or 24" sub so I am not sure what to with it now. I am curious to know how these 15" MBM will compare to my VBSS. I also plan to veneer the MBM to match my main speakers so it will take awhile to build.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
If you were local I could sell you my inuke with the VBSS programming already done ! Hehe I am considering throwing my MBM onto my 7ch ATI 200w amp. The inuke wouldn't be enough for a 21 or 24" sub so I am not sure what to with it now. I am curious to know how these 15" MBM will compare to my VBSS. I also plan to veneer the MBM to match my main speakers so it will take awhile to build.
I guess BC is a ways out, lol

Can you share where to find everything for the VBSS?

Solen.ca has the PA460-8 but only 1 in stock - $412 after shipping and all that for two, Parts-Express is $390 but duty..etc will probably put them well above.
 

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HUGE! Downside is the boxes (x2) without shipping, taxes or duty are in the $1,350 range and the style of the box and the cuts needed are beyond the helps I can enlist. The VBSS style is about as crazy as I can get with the cuts before I have to order a flatpack, table saw, circular saw, jig, drill press..that's about the extent of tools.
You can do 99.9999% with 5 tools - and something to support your pieces while cutting.

Tape Measure - You probably have one already, but it is worth mentioning.

Plunge Router & at least a 1/4" spiral upcut bit for round cutouts. Roundover bits, flush cut bits, straight bits, chamfer bits, etc. are nice to have, but not absolutely necessary.

Circle Jig - you can make your own, but having a premade makes things much easier, and guarantees you get the right diameter (provided you pay attention to things while setting it up) - definitely not absolutely necessary though.

Track Saw & a good finish cut blade
Framing Square - this is an absolute must for larger panels. The 3-4-5 method works, but a square take the guess work and math out of the equation.

You could probably even do most of it with just a circular saw, a straight edge, a jigsaw, a tape measure, & a framing square.

Even with flat packs you'll need a good amount of clamps for gluing, so I have not included those. You can use a finish brad nailer instead of clamps as well.

If you are going to purchase a circular saw, I would recommend getting a track saw. The WEN track saw I have is perfect for a hobbyist, and it is 1/6th the cost of a Festool or Makita. If you were doing contract work, or just wanted the best tools, the Festool or Makita are the way to go. But for hobby work, the WEN and a good blade will pay for itself in ease of accuracy and perfectly straight cuts within the first couple panels - in my opinion anyway.

My build game was elevated to another level by the track saw. I do also have a table saw, but long sheet goods are difficult to cut solo, so I use the track saw for that. Smaller pieces are definitely easier, faster, and more easily repeatable with the table saw. It is by no means a must have tool though.

Here's the last subwoofer I built (I still have to stain and clear coat it cherry to match my speakers):
 

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Discussion Starter #30
You can do 99.9999% with 5 tools - and something to support your pieces while cutting.

Tape Measure - You probably have one already, but it is worth mentioning.

Plunge Router & at least a 1/4" spiral upcut bit for round cutouts. Roundover bits, flush cut bits, straight bits, chamfer bits, etc. are nice to have, but not absolutely necessary.

Circle Jig - you can make your own, but having a premade makes things much easier, and guarantees you get the right diameter (provided you pay attention to things while setting it up) - definitely not absolutely necessary though.

Track Saw & a good finish cut blade
Framing Square - this is an absolute must for larger panels. The 3-4-5 method works, but a square take the guess work and math out of the equation.

You could probably even do most of it with just a circular saw, a straight edge, a jigsaw, a tape measure, & a framing square.

Even with flat packs you'll need a good amount of clamps for gluing, so I have not included those. You can use a finish brad nailer instead of clamps as well.

If you are going to purchase a circular saw, I would recommend getting a track saw. The WEN track saw I have is perfect for a hobbyist, and it is 1/6th the cost of a Festool or Makita. If you were doing contract work, or just wanted the best tools, the Festool or Makita are the way to go. But for hobby work, the WEN and a good blade will pay for itself in ease of accuracy and perfectly straight cuts within the first couple panels - in my opinion anyway.

My build game was elevated to another level by the track saw. I do also have a table saw, but long sheet goods are difficult to cut solo, so I use the track saw for that. Smaller pieces are definitely easier, faster, and more easily repeatable with the table saw. It is by no means a must have tool though.

Here's the last subwoofer I built (I still have to stain and clear coat it cherry to match my speakers):

I think, after looking more at the devastator that it is too damn big, lol.

I am heavily leaning towards the VBSS or the Marty.....reading mixed reviews that VBSS sounds boomy, Marty plays deeper/louder.

Could one just drop 2X IXL-18 in a Full Marty?
 

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I bought the cut MDF from Home Depo, the drivers were from Parts Express (I can drive to the border), and the amp I bought from Long and McQuade. A boomy setup is more about the room and setup and less about the sub.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
I bought the cut MDF from Home Depo, the drivers were from Parts Express (I can drive to the border), and the amp I bought from Long and McQuade. A boomy setup is more about the room and setup and less about the sub.
Thanks!

I will price everything out and see which route: VBSS or IXL-18's in a Full Marty!

Are Full Marty specs and cuts..etc available online for a DIY?
 

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Probably one of the easiest ways to start. would be 18 inch sealed in a 4 foot by 4 foot box.
 

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Discussion Starter #34 (Edited)
Probably one of the easiest ways to start. would be 18 inch sealed in a 4 foot by 4 foot box.
That would be super easy for sure, I could do that my self! but looking for ported!

We have built car subs before, ported, but had the box designed with each piece and dimension laid out. We just cut and put the pieces together.....

Looking at the Marty/Full Marty I can't find port length or size info or bracing info - just the outer dimensions of the box.



I spoke with my step dad and showed him the above image and links..etc Heck maybe I just do the VBSS and see what happens - would just hate to not like it. Probably a mental block, the preconceived notion that somehow hoe audio & cheap = bad.

If we have dimensions for the box and all the pieces we can absolutely build it, just need some help with that or a program that can assist!
 

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Discussion Starter #36
here is the sizes of the marty subs


mini marty cutlist

here is a build thread for the full marty https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-diy-speakers-subs/2427610-full-marty-full-noobs.html
there is many many build threads, its one of the most popular subs around here

here is the FAQ thread https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-diy-speakers-subs/1648673-martysub-faq.html
Perfect, thank you! This will help a ton!

Does anyone here have experience with both the VBSS and the Marty for pros and cons?

Just keep reading the Marty 'digs deeper' and I have tried to find a video comparison.
 

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Perfect, thank you! This will help a ton!

Does anyone here have experience with both the VBSS and the Marty for pros and cons?

Just keep reading the Marty 'digs deeper' and I have tried to find a video comparison.
An 11cf Full Marty box should give you ~4dB more around tune than a 6.25cf VBSS box. What you tune at is up to you.

They are just boxes that you are putting a driver in. There aren't really pros and cons other than the bigger box will take up more space and give you more output, the smaller box will take up less space and give you less output.
 

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Discussion Starter #38 (Edited)
An 11cf Full Marty should give you ~4dB more around tune than a 6.25cf VBSS box. What you tune at is up to you.

They are just boxes that you are putting a driver in. There aren't really pros and cons other than the bigger box will take up more space and give you more output, the smaller box will take us less space and give you less output.
That makes perfect sense!

I think I will be doing a VBSS with NX3000D - nothing huge box wise and hopefully some great output for movies and music (and better than my CHT!)

Wife doesn't want anything 'huge' so start with this and the NX3000D would allow for upgrades......two UM18-22s in a full Marty would be sweet but don't think I can sway the size


EDIT
Would be the correct tube kit for the VBSS?
https://solen.ca/products/accessories/plastic-parts/psp4-bkht/
 

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In the GTA area. I made a sonosub with a UM15 & iNuke 1000 amp. With a router and circle jig, it was pretty simple to make. 24" sonotube and a 8" sonotube for the port. No need for huge clamps. Only downside is that its 6ft tall :D

Since the borders are closed, if you are in the GTA then corssborderpickups is an option over CBI.
 

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That makes perfect sense!

I think I will be doing a VBSS with NX3000D - nothing huge box wise and hopefully some great output for movies and music (and better than my CHT!)

Wife doesn't want anything 'huge' so start with this and the NX3000D would allow for upgrades......two UM18-22s in a full Marty would be sweet but don't think I can sway the size


EDIT
Would be the correct tube kit for the VBSS?
https://solen.ca/products/accessories/plastic-parts/psp4-bkht/
You can save like a hundred bucks by just building slot ports instead of buying the ports from Solen.
 
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