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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm in the planning stages of building a home with a semi-custom home builder and I need a sanity check before a take the plunge.


Attached is the layout of the first floor. I want to use the gameroom in the back as a HT room. According to http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1112099 the dimensions (20'1"x12'11"x8') are pretty good. Right? Would 7.1 work well in this room?


I can have the ceilings vaulted in the room for a reasonable price, but I'm assuming that'd bad for a HT? I can also raise the ceiling to 9' for a price, but my guess is that isn't needed.


I plan to use the small closet as an AV closet and put a vent between it and the bathroom for ventilation, keeping the HT room quiet.


Any suggestions are very appreciated. Thanks!


-Rob
 

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I am by no means a pro,..yet,haha, but from the months of lurking and researching for my own little DHT ,my guess is the Pro's here will tell you that is a great size,they will probably say go for the 9' ceiling mainly for decor ,tray ceilings and star fields and such
.And as for the 7.1 if the back row isn't up against the back wall(unless it's just overflow seating) ,from what I've read,you should be good to go




(now Que the HT Wizards here to tell you not to listen to that guy cus he's talkin' outa his a$$,haha)
 

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That size can work pretty well for a basic theater. However if you had your heart set on using 2-3 ft behind an Acoustically transparent screen for you speakers together with two rows of fully reclining HT seating it will be a tight pinch. As is if you set the back for your first row chair at 12 ft from the screen that gives you just enough space to position the back row 18 inches in front of the back wall. That gives the rear surrounds some space to work for the back row.


You are going to need to decide how you are going to orient the room and design the seating riser for the back row. Looks to me like it is going to work the best with the screen on the left. That means that the equipment closet door needs to be mounted higher than normal in anticipation of the the rear riser.


My advice to you is to draw out a measured floor plan of the room and put in riser, seating, speaker locations, screen, etc so that you can determine specific instructions for your builder at this stage of the game. Like where to put an outlet for the projector, Putting outlets in the closet Etc. I would also visit the Ted White's web site and visit the library of articles on soundproofing before you finalize your plans with the builder. There are some simple things you might want done in the original build that will be relatively cheap but expensive to change after the fact. Like using staggered stud construction for the common walls.
 

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Oh,and in case you haven't heard of it ,there is a free software from Google called SketchUp that is fairly easy to use and helps a lot with laying out how you want your space to work,granted it takes a bit to get used to but once you get the hang of it it is really fun (well for me at least
).
http://sketchup.google.com/download/

(DL the bottom one ,Google SketchUp 7)

here is what I've done with it


(ya I know,its small
I like to call it "cosey"haha)
 

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Another vote for the 9 foot ceilings.


My first theater had 8.5 foot ceilings.

My second theater had 6.5 foot ceilings (basements in Long Island, NY are for dwarves).

My third and current (under construction) HT has 10 foot ceilings.



Huge differences..
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Sorry about the delay in getting back. Thanks for the suggestions everyone!


To summerize:
  • Vaulted ceilings, bad.
  • 9 ft ceilings, good. (~$1000, probably worth it.)
  • I need to look in to sound proofing. (I'll at least add insulation in the interior wall.)
  • The room is a good size, but could be a few feet bigger.
  • I should sketch it in Sketchup. (I've used sketchup before, its just takes awhile to get started.)


BIGmouthinDC, your basement looks amazing! Mike70, thats a cleaver spot to but a computer desk.


Thanks again. -Rob
 
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