[dhanson]

I'm in the finish stage of my theater and family room. I have two Mid-Atlantic racks in the walls - a small one in the family room, and a gigantic one in the theater. I'd like to put custom faceplates on my gear, but the price from Mid-Atlantic is a bit outrageous - on the order of $100 per unit. I don't feel like spending $1000 for custom shelves, so I thought I'd buy some standard shelves and make some faceplates.


Has anyone done this? If so, what did you use? Which shelves? I assume you can't use the shelves with the front screws (like the U1-U4), but have to use the universal shelves (SH-5A) that screw onto the side rails, so you can put the separate faceplates on the front?


As for the faceplates themselves, I'm thinking that I'd make cardboard templates for each component, then transfer the template onto blank faceplates and cut the holes using a dremel tool. Other options are to make faceplates from black plastic or some other material.


Does anyone know the difference between the various faceplates? Some are 11-guage, some are 16 ga, some have different coatings. Anyone know which ones would be best for cutting holes in? I'm guessing the thinnest ones without the fancy coatings that could chip.


Thanks!

 

[JamesBoyd]

Great question! Anyone done this, or want to do it cheaper? Might be a good biz for someone that could do this.


I wonder if templates are available from the manufacturers? I mean obviously Mid-Atlantic isn't making a cardboard template for every known piece of equipment. They must get them from the manufacturers.


HTJ

 

[patrickwebb]

I too would be interested in how this develops...

 

[mrmike]

if you search around the HTPC forum, they had a discussion a while back on a "Panel Designer" package from a company that does one-off and rapid proto stuff and the prices were pretty cheap (depending on features). I think this is the place.


-MM

 

[patrickwebb]

Great link, thanks!

 

[Llamas]

That is kind of cool. What I wonder, though, is how much the price differs from a Middle Atlantic solution.


For instance, I think I was quoted $109 for a specific rack mount for my Sherwood P-965. This is comprised of a 5U rack shelf with top clamp, and a custom cut out to fit the pre-pro. If the shelf would cost $56 (the 4U costs $56), and a custom plate costs $65 (I ran through the application above, using 4mm material), then the Middle Atlantic solution comes out ahead.


Of course, I'm modeling this on a large component. The scale may change when looking at smaller pieces.


--Mike

 

[dhanson]

The DIY route would involve their ~$30 universal shelves, and a $5 blank panel.


I think the panel cutting software is way overkill. Most components, all we're talking about here is cutting a rectangle out of the middle of a plate. You should be able to just measure it and cut it.


I'm not sure how much work it will be to cut through those with a Dremel tool, though. And I'm not sure what else I would cut it with.

 

[Llamas]

Are there metal cutting bits for routers? In wood, you'd create a template, place it over the work piece, and use a router to follow the template for the cut.

 

[JamesBoyd]

Not to be a heretic, but I wonder what a face plate would look like cut in 1/8" tempered hardboard and paint finished? Or laminated in a brushed black metal laminate?

 

[Toxarch]

1/8" hardboard would probably be too thick. Aluminum sheetmetal would be a good option if there were a cheap and easy way to paint it. Black anodizing can't be cheap.


I've been thinking about making masking plates and spacers myself. If anyone makes anything, be sure to take pictures.

 

[JamesBoyd]

Like dhanson pointed out... how to cut that rectangle out? Dremel seems like it would require a guide. Snips probably don't have the leverage. I'm not a metalworking guy but would love to make these. Toxarch, did you have an idea of how you would do this?

 

[JamesBoyd]

I've been doing a bit of research and it would appear that a heavy cardstock template can be made. Use as a guide over the Middle Atlantic blank and cut with a Dremel cutting wheel. I'm not sure if Dremel makes small router bits for the curves / corners.


I'm still researching. I wish I could find someone who's done this before.

 

[Tedd]

If one owns a router, why not use some nice hardwood? The edges could be thinned, or the wood faceplate could be mounted from the rear of the framework, and then the metal bolt framework could be covered with a wood strip afterwards, for a very clean look. At $100 a faceplate, one could easily justify buying a plunge router and some bits.


A dremel is not a good option for cutting metal. I recall my Freud router manual mentions routing metal like aluminum. Might be an option. I also recall someone using oak to finish off a rackmount rack and it looked beautiful. I'll check to see if I can find the picture.

 

[Tedd]

I found the picture I was thinking of. I don't beleive it's a rack mount but it gives an idea of what I was proposing. I am pretty sure it is an AVS member's room but I can't recall whom.

 

[bpape]

You might check out some local small machine shops. You might be surprised at how reasonably they will do this kind of work. It can be done manually with a vertical mill or DoAll machine. More high tech places can do it with either a water cutter or a laser/plasma machine. It's a piece of cake for them as it's just a square. The only problem is the radii left in the corners. With aluminum, you can file that to a square corner really easily.


As for coloring it (this is gonna sound strange) check out some paintball sites. Those guys have all kinds of DIY annodizing tricks for producing colors on their barrels, stocks, triggers, etc.

http://www.caswellplating.com/kits/black.htm

http://www.focuser.com/atm/anodize/anodize99.html


Caution: When doing true anodizing, some of the solutions are extremely caustic.

 

[JamesBoyd]

Well, if you bought Middle-A plates, they're already plated.


Tedd, why do you say a Dremel isn't going to work? Lots of modss going on with plates and cases for cars and computers. I'll concede that the cases on computers are thinner than faceplates on a rack, but the larger metal cutting wheels on the Dremel should allow you to cut a straight line.


Now I don't have one and haven't tried this, but it seems like it should work.

 

[Toxarch]

I was going to try it first with a dremel. Lots of people cut the metal cases on their computers using a dremel. Maybe even use black plastic or black melanine (no wood backing). It doesn't have to be SUPER durable, it just has to look nice and flat and be durable to curious hands.

 

[JamesBoyd]

Well, I'm going to try using (borrowing) a Dremel. Heck, a blank faceplate is only a few bucks. What's there to lose?


I think when all is said and done the most difficult part of all of this will have proven to be making the template.

 

[liquidh2o]

If you find a metal plating to go with and want to change the color of it, I'd recommend getting it powder coated (read here: http://www.finishing.com/Library/pennisi/powder.html )


This is what I had done to my computer case, colors and patterns are pretty much limitless. And it only cost $35, so it'd probably be even less for your face plate. Most auto paint places should be able to do it. Or a shop that makes/paints bicycles.

 

[thedeskE]

I have fabricated custom total height plates for some of my clients. A single ply sheet that velcros onto the Mid Atlantic rack or a shelf system. You have to have everything committed position wise, not to mention a great air system for the gear.

The tolerance has been 1/32 inch around each unit. The largest was for 10 units and about 80+ in height.


I recommend against it these days. The MA plates are expensive, but movable within the rack rails. It's worth the money if you must have this much detail.


Either way is not good in my opinion. You're committing to a plate around something that you will probably replace in time, so the expense for the clean look is lost.


I'll give credit where it's due - they look great, especially lighted (hey, if you can afford the plates, why not light the rack)


My most detailed install was a client that had 3/100s tolerance plates in 2 sections with a pocket door that actuated a down light on eack section when it opened. He didn't care about the cost. It was expensive. His average cost per shelf was 140.00 (for the rack tray/custom cover plate and rear stay with a wire hold) The racks, lighting, rail covers(to hide the screws) and pocket doors were extra (a lot) This was 10 years ago.


Sorry, you can't see it very well, but here it is - http://www.thedeske.com/Malec2001.html


Here's an inwall with wood plates. The client loved it, but my AV installer friend had a nightmare dealing with the wire in the case. Is it tight enough?

http://www.thedeske.com/Hewett001.html


You guys have too much time on your hands ;-))

Or Not?


E