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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have some extra Paradigm in wall and in ceiling speakers.... and I think for my basement theater I am going to do the front and center channels in wall to save space. Now in this particular setup the wall that the speakers will be in is unfinished on the other side, so I have complete access to the studs... and will be able to build the boxes as big/small as needed. Unfortunately I'm at work, so I don't have the model #'s on the speakers.... but how I do I know the proper size to build the enclosures?


Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Sorry to bump my own thread, but I now have the model #'s for my speakers.... so I was really hoping one of you pros could help me so I can start building my boxes tonight. I have four Paradigm CS-160 v.2 (I plan on using three for the fronts and center) and I have twelve Paradigm CS-60R v.2 (I may use those as the rears, but I haven't decided yet). Any idea how big to build the boxes for these things, especially for the CS-160's as I will be using those for sure?


Thanks in advance!
 

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Most in-walls are designed not to have a box around them. Do yours have specs for a box or you just want a box. You will change the response of the speaker if you add a box.


Saying that I have added boxes to my in-ceiling speakers on my patio and I loved the new sound....it sounded like it has more bass and I liked it.


I used my trusses/studs as a guide line to the width/lenght and I guessed at the overall dimensions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by penngray /forum/post/16913023


Most in-walls are designed not to have a box around them. Do yours have specs for a box or you just want a box. You will change the response of the speaker if you add a box.


Saying that I have added boxes to my in-ceiling speakers on my patio and I loved the new sound....it sounded like it has more bass and I liked it.


I used my trusses/studs as a guide line to the width/lenght and I guessed at the overall dimensions.

I don't have specs for a box, but from other threads I've read on the forum it sounds like it is much better to have one. The wall the fronts will be on backs up to the sub basement, which is unfinished so I was afraid that sound quality would be terrible if I left them open air. I suppose I could just put them in the wall and see how it sounds, and go from there.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by dooomi /forum/post/16913254


I don't have specs for a box, but from other threads I've read on the forum it sounds like it is much better to have one. The wall the fronts will be on backs up to the sub basement, which is unfinished so I was afraid that sound quality would be terrible if I left them open air. I suppose I could just put them in the wall and see how it sounds, and go from there.

In-wall designs are made to not have boxes. Quality ones can sound pretty good.


Definitely put them in and listen...then add a temp box and listen. You can decide what you like. I suspect most experts will just tell you that speakers where never designed to have a box so don't do it.


This is DIY so I think we should experiment
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by penngray /forum/post/16913322


In-wall designs are made to not have boxes. Quality ones can sound pretty good.


Definitely put them in and listen...then add a temp box and listen. You can decide what you like. I suspect most experts will just tell you that speakers where never designed to have a box so don't do it.


This is DIY so I think we should experiment

Yup, I think experimentation is in order. Especially since it will be so easy to add/remove boxes because the wall is open backed. I'm just the kind of guy who likes to do a ridiculous amount of research before I even start a project. I have a ton of sound deadening material because my best friend used to have a recording studio in his house... so I can also try just puting that around the speaker to try to contain the sound a bit.


Thanks for your replies!
 

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I would think the easiest way to build a box for these would be to put insulation in the stud bay and then screw on a 5/8 drywall panel to the back of each of the 3 stud bays containing speakers. Seal up any holes in the framing first. If there is an outlet in the stud bay put a putty pad on the back of the box. I would also think about fitting in another layer of drywall to the back of the first layer and glue it to the first layer to add some mass and minimize resonances that the drywall would add to the sound. You can do all of this for under $50.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC /forum/post/16913430


I would think the easiest way to build a box for these would be to put insulation in the stud bay and then screw on a 5/8 drywall panel to the back of each of the 3 stud bays containing speakers. Seal up any holes in the framing first. If there is an outlet in the stud bay put a putty pad on the back of the box. I would also think about fitting in another layer of drywall to the back of the first layer and glue it to the first layer to add some mass and minimize resonances that the drywall would add to the sound. You can do all of this for under $50.

Yeah, that was pretty much exactly my plan for doing the boxes, but I hadn't thought about adding a layer of drywall to the front... thanks for the idea! And I was planning on doing MDF or 1/4" plywood for the back of the box instead of drywall, would drywall be better? I was mainly wondering about sizes and such as I know it can have a huge impact on sound. Looks like I'll just be trying different sizes of boxes, and no box at all to see what I like best.


Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Sorry, got another question before I start knocking holes in walls. For the L/R speakers I plan on going vertical alignment (the CS-160's are rectangle).... for the center should I go vertical or horizontal?


Also, I am planning on doing a 105" projector screen that drops in front of my plasma... but the ceiling where I want the screen is only 78", which would mean I would have the plant the front speakers about 27" up the wall. Will this be too low for quality sound?


Thanks again for all your answers!
 

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is the center channel the same in-wall speaker?


If its identical to the rest and you can go veritical wth it you should.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by penngray /forum/post/16913731


is the center channel the same in-wall speaker?


If its identical to the rest and you can go veritical wth it you should.

Yup, the center is the same in wall... and going vertical isn't a problem at all. Is it a problem to use the same three speakers for all the fronts? I just thought that since most centers have horizontal orientation it may make sense to do it that way. Thanks for the quick replies!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Ok, sorry guys... one last question. Since I have four of the CS-160's, three of which I was planning on using for my fronts... could I use the fourth and stack it pretty much directly on top of the center, or next to it if I go vertical placement (same model/speaker), or would this cause problems?
 

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Quote:
Is it a problem to use the same three speakers for all the fronts? I just thought that since most centers have horizontal orientation it may make sense to do it that way. Thanks for the quick replies!

Its the opposite the best configuration is to have identical front speakers (and at the same level if you can). Horizontal orientation has inherent flaws and always has been a compromise that most people have to live with because they stick them above and below TVs.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by dooomi /forum/post/16914411


Ok, sorry guys... one last question. Since I have four of the CS-160's, three of which I was planning on using for my fronts... could I use the fourth and stack it pretty much directly on top of the center, or next to it if I go vertical placement (same model/speaker), or would this cause problems?

Problems--dont do it.


As for mounting height, "tweeters at ear height" is a very basic rule of thumb. At 27", you are a bit low.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by penngray /forum/post/16914442


Its the opposite the best configuration is to have identical front speakers (and at the same level if you can). Horizontal orientation has inherent flaws and always has been a compromise that most people have to live with because they stick them above and below TVs.

That makes sense... thanks!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fatawan /forum/post/16914456


Problems--dont do it.


As for mounting height, "tweeters at ear height" is a very basic rule of thumb. At 27", you are a bit low.

Thanks, I figured puting two of them there would be a problem.


Yeah, I've read the rule before... I'm just afraid in my situation it won't work out properly. Unless I decide to go without the projector. Is being this low going to cause absolutely terrible sound?


Thanks again for all your help guys!
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fatawan /forum/post/16914456


Problems--dont do it.


As for mounting height, "tweeters at ear height" is a very basic rule of thumb. At 27", you are a bit low.

It can depend on the vertical response of his speakers. 27" vs 35" at 10 feet is a couple of degrees.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by penngray /forum/post/16914597


It can depend on the vertical response of his speakers. 27" vs 35" at 10 feet is a couple of degrees.

Any way to find out the vertical response of these speakers? Sorry, I've been into A/V for quite some time... but never gotten too technical.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by dooomi /forum/post/16915262


Any way to find out the vertical response of these speakers? Sorry, I've been into A/V for quite some time... but never gotten too technical.

I doubt they post those measurments so you would have to do it yourself if you cared about it that much.
 
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