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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi, I’m about to purchase some Buttkickers for my home theater, but admittedly I’m a noob and need some assistance with understanding how to set this up.

Seating: 5-seater single-row of home theater seats with centre sofa, and two individual seats of each end. Manual recliners

Thinking of purchasing:

2 Buttkicker LFE’s for the sofa
1 Buttkicker Advance for each individual seat.

Other Information
Existing single Subwoofer (Aperion Intimus 10 inch woofer), will eventually upgrade to 2 woofers.
Room Dimensions 16 ft x 12 ft
Flooring – concrete floor, under a fully carpeted room

These are the knowns. I need help with the following:

Is the above adequate for the seating in question?
What amp can safely power the Buttkickers above?
Can one amp even do the job?
How can I remotely control the power to/ and intensity of, each buttkicker, if this is even possible? I have a Harmony Elite remote, hence the question. Separately controlling each unit is important. I hope to understand how.
Would attaching the buttkicker to the underside of each couch (via 2x4 beam), provide the best experience? What is the alternative to this
What is the best wiring to use?
How to I connect the buttkicker to the main subwoofer? You can direct me to the threads for this, as I know this has already been addressed elsewhere, but I would appreciate a fairly simple response.

Finally, when I do set everything up, what are the best 3D movies to WOW my family with!!!

Thanks in advance.
 

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Does the couch you want the LFE’s for have 2 seats or 5 seats? 2 seats = 1 Advance is all you need. 5 seats = LFE sounds like a good idea but I think you’d only need 1. I use 1 Advance for my 3-seat couch.

An Advance could be mounted to the underside of a seat or couch. An LFE is large. You’d likely need to use the “Mounting Accessory Kit” and put a leg of the couch on it. That’s how I use my Advance.

I’m curious about answers to your question regarding individual adjustment. Seems to me you’d need a separate amp for each ButtKicker. That would get expensive.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Does the couch you want the LFE’s for have 2 seats or 5 seats? 2 seats = 1 Advance is all you need. 5 seats = LFE sounds like a good idea but I think you’d only need 1. I use 1 Advance for my 3-seat couch.

An Advance could be mounted to the underside of a seat or couch. An LFE is large. You’d likely need to use the “Mounting Accessory Kit” and put a leg of the couch on it. That’s how I use my Advance.

I’m curious about answers to your question regarding individual adjustment. Seems to me you’d need a separate amp for each ButtKicker. That would get expensive.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
It's a 3 seater (sofa). I was thinking I needed 2 LFE's for the sofa and an Advance for each of the two individual seats flanking the sofa.

How is the feedback using the mounting accessory kit? It looks as if it will be less effective than one mounted on the underside of the seats.
If the accessory kit works well, I can consider it though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Hi, I’m about to purchase some Buttkickers for my home theater, but admittedly I’m a noob and need some assistance with understanding how to set this up.

Seating: 5-seater single-row of home theater seats with centre sofa, and two individual seats of each end. Manual recliners

Thinking of purchasing:

2 Buttkicker LFE’s for the sofa
1 Buttkicker Advance for each individual seat.

Other Information
Existing single Subwoofer (Aperion Intimus 10 inch woofer), will eventually upgrade to 2 woofers.
Room Dimensions 16 ft x 12 ft
Flooring – concrete floor, under a fully carpeted room

These are the knowns. I need help with the following:

Is the above adequate for the seating in question?
What amp can safely power the Buttkickers above?
Can one amp even do the job?
How can I remotely control the power to/ and intensity of, each buttkicker, if this is even possible? I have a Harmony Elite remote, hence the question. Separately controlling each unit is important. I hope to understand how.
Would attaching the buttkicker to the underside of each couch (via 2x4 beam), provide the best experience? What is the alternative to this
What is the best wiring to use?
How to I connect the buttkicker to the main subwoofer? You can direct me to the threads for this, as I know this has already been addressed elsewhere, but I would appreciate a fairly simple response.

Finally, when I do set everything up, what are the best 3D movies to WOW my family with!!!

Thanks in advance.
I could use one amp for the sofa and another to manage the two individual seats, but not sure how these will ask be connected and controlled from a Harmony remote
 

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1 Advance using the "Mounting Accessory Kit" on my 3-seat couch works just fine. The Advance itself is hidden under the couch, though the mount pokes out a little. My couch didn't have anything convenient to mount the Advance to. If you want the LFE instead of the Advance for your couch, the LFE might be too big and heavy to mount to the couch itself, but it would provide so much rumble that I can't imagine you'd lose anything by using the mounting kit. And you definitely don't need 2. I started with my ButtKicker turned way up and enjoyed it like a thrill ride. But eventually, turned up too much, it became fatiguing and distracting and I settled on a level that enhanced my subwoofers instead of distracted from the movie. Now, people don't know I have the ButtKicker -- they think the tactile feeling is coming from the subwoofers -- so I like to think I have a good blend.

I have a ButtKicker amp they don't sell anymore that can be IR controlled but I never adjust it. I found a level that's good for everyone in the house and just stick with it. Plus, my amp is under the couch with the Advance, so my Harmony remote can't reach it anyway.

The ButtKicker BKA-130-C amp they sell now can't be IR controlled -- it has a wired remote. I'm on a quest to upgrade due to new seating so am interested in amps too. I haven't done a lot of research yet, but the powerful mono "subwoofer" amps used to drive ButtKickers often don't have IR control, like the Dayton SA1000, for example. They are designed for subwoofers so aren't designed for regular gain adjustment -- they are designed for set-it-and-forget-it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for this . I'll definitely start off with one LFE instead of two. I'll be using the BK in the same manner as you (to enhance, and not overpower the bass). I'll give the mounting kit a go as well, unless someone else can confirm that mounting to the underside is significantly better.
Just to gain a better understanding of how to connect using a Harmony remote and the possible limitations, as I may need to reassess what I aim to do
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for this . I'll definitely start off with one LFE instead of two. I'll be using the BK in the same manner as you (to enhance, and not overpower the bass). I'll give the mounting kit a go as well, unless someone else can confirm that mounting to the underside is significantly better.
Just to gain a better understanding of how to connect using a Harmony remote and the possible limitations, as I may need to reassess what I aim to do
Would one Dayton Sa1000 power the three BK, as I'm only using 1 LFE for the sofa?
 

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Would one Dayton Sa1000 power the three BK, as I'm only using 1 LFE for the sofa?
Yes, it would.

Keep in mind that running an odd number of devices (greater than 1) off one amp is difficult. If each transducer is 4 ohms, 2 of them in parallel is 2 ohms, 2 in series is 8 ohms. 3 doesn't work so well as that brings the impedance down to 1.33 ohms. You cant really wire one in series and 2 in parallel because then they get uneven power. You'd have to wire all 3 in series, which gives you 12 ohms. Running 4 lets you run 2 in series 2 in parallel for a net 4 ohms load. Therefore, I'd try to avoid having 3 or 5. Make it 2 or 4.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Yes, it would.

Keep in mind that running an odd number of devices (greater than 1) off one amp is difficult. If each transducer is 4 ohms, 2 of them in parallel is 2 ohms, 2 in series is 8 ohms. 3 doesn't work so well as that brings the impedance down to 1.33 ohms. You cant really wire one in series and 2 in parallel because then they get uneven power. You'd have to wire all 3 in series, which gives you 12 ohms. Running 4 lets you run 2 in series 2 in parallel for a net 4 ohms load. Therefore, I'd try to avoid having 3 or 5. Make it 2 or 4.
Thanks! So 4 Advance BK's, with two for the sofa is better?
 

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Thanks! So 4 Advance BK's, with two for the sofa is better?
IMO yes. Also, I'd consider the earthquake MQB-1 over the buttkickers if you're mounting directly to the furniture. They never bottom out, never make that horrible clanking noise, and are much more musical if you want to use them for music as well.
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
IMO yes. Also, I'd consider the earthquake MQB-1 over the buttkickers if you're mounting directly to the furniture. They never bottom out, never make that horrible clanking noise, and are much more musical if you want to use them for music as well.
What causes the bottoming out? Never really understood that. (Noob). And the earthquake does not have this issue? Does the earthquake have any limitations to consider?
 

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What causes the bottoming out? Never really understood that. (Noob). And the earthquake does not have this issue? Does the earthquake have any limitations to consider?
The transducer is a weight mounted on a rod that moves to make vibrations. When they move too far they hit the stops. On the buttkickers this is extremely audible and jarring. You'll want to avoid it at all costs.

I have had shakers by almost all companies in the past. I prefer the earthquake mqb1's when mounted to furniture over all others. The buttkickers are aggressive and go really deep but they bottom out (pretty easily) and make a horrible noise when that happens. This doesn't happen often, but might only happen on a few movies here and there. It results in you having to turn down your whole system just to avoid these cases. The earthquakes may bottom out also, but they do it silently. Also the buttkickers are somewhat loud in normal operation. For example, if you want something so you can listen to music at low to moderate levels and feel a little tactile bass when doing so, the buttkickers are too noisy to do this well. As they get turned up loud enough to provide some feedback you can hear them moving. The earthquakes are dead silent in this regard.

The earthquakes really only work well if mounted to the furniture using the included L bracket. They're not powerful enough to mount directly to a platform and get good results. But if you mount to the furniture, they're fantastic - and they don't require too much power to drive well. 50 watts per earthquake is plenty.


Maybe you should buy one of each and test for a bit on your main seat and decide for yourself.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
The transducer is a weight mounted on a rod that moves to make vibrations. When they move too far they hit the stops. On the buttkickers this is extremely audible and jarring. You'll want to avoid it at all costs.

I have had shakers by almost all companies in the past. I prefer the earthquake mqb1's when mounted to furniture over all others. The buttkickers are aggressive and go really deep but they bottom out (pretty easily) and make a horrible noise when that happens. This doesn't happen often, but might only happen on a few movies here and there. It results in you having to turn down your whole system just to avoid these cases. The earthquakes may bottom out also, but they do it silently. Also the buttkickers are somewhat loud in normal operation. For example, if you want something so you can listen to music at low to moderate levels and feel a little tactile bass when doing so, the buttkickers are too noisy to do this well. As they get turned up loud enough to provide some feedback you can hear them moving. The earthquakes are dead silent in this regard.

The earthquakes really only work well if mounted to the furniture using the included L bracket. They're not powerful enough to mount directly to a platform and get good results. But if you mount to the furniture, they're fantastic - and they don't require too much power to drive well. 50 watts per earthquake is plenty.


Maybe you should buy one of each and test for a bit on your main seat and decide for yourself.
For the setup, what are your thoughts on : Sofa: the Earthquake MQB1 along the bottom and a Buttkicker advance mounted along the backrest?
Then either an Earthquake MBQ1 or Buttkicker advance on each individual seat.

This will allow the 4 transducer setup recommended by Markmon1

I read the Earthquake runs hot ; how accurate is this?

I don't live in the US, so i would not be able to test each unit, whichever I purchase, I have to live with, hence all the questions.
 

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I mounted a gain knob at my seat so that I can have full control of how hard my Buttkickers hit. I want it to be subtle, not overpowering.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I mounted a gain knob at my seat so that I can have full control of how hard my Buttkickers hit. I want it to be subtle, not overpowering.
Agreed, I may have it a bit high for the honeymoon phase, but definitely looking for an enhanced, but not overpowering, experience overall.

If I go for subtle, would the buttkickers still be adequate, or will the earthquakes be better? I read they are more nimble
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Agreed, I may have it a bit high for the honeymoon phase, but definitely looking for an enhanced, but not overpowering, experience overall.

If I go for subtle, would the buttkickers still be adequate, or will the earthquakes be better? I read they are more nimble
Primary use will be home theater and gaming
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I mounted a gain knob at my seat so that I can have full control of how hard my Buttkickers hit. I want it to be subtle, not overpowering.
How did you do this though? What device/ accessory did you use? And can this be set up for the independent control: 1. The sofa, 2, the first seat and 3 the second seat
 

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The earthquakes really only work well if mounted to the furniture using the included L bracket. They're not powerful enough to mount directly to a platform and get good results. But if you mount to the furniture, they're fantastic - and they don't require too much power to drive well. 50 watts per earthquake is plenty.
Sorry to butt-in on someone else's thread, but I'm in a similar situation to the OP. I'm trying to avoid drilling holes in the sofa, and have opted instead to bolt a piece of 3/4" plywood to the underside of the sofa section using the existing threaded holes for its feet. Do you think in this situation I could use an earthquake mounted to the plywood I'm adding?

I've only ever used an aura shaker in the past, and I definitely want something that's as natural as realistically possible.
 

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How did you do this though? What device/ accessory did you use? And can this be set up for the independent control: 1. The sofa, 2, the first seat and 3 the second seat
I ran the RCA cable from the receiver to a PAC LC-1 at my seat then back to the Butkicker amp.
 

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If I go for subtle, would the buttkickers still be adequate, or will the earthquakes be better? I read they are more nimble
I haven't tried the earthquakes so I can't speak to a direct comparison.
 
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