Calibrating a front projector help needed

Greetings


Spyder 2 has never been a good choice for lcd displays. It is almost always off to the red end. Likely by 500 to 800K too.


Some of the tri stim probes are fooled by the UV light given off by the bulb. It throws things off.


An i1 pro would be better for this technology.


A chroma 5 might be workable ... but you should have some form of optical comparator to double check its results.


Regards

Thanks very much Michael, I'll take your suggestions into consideration and see what I can do/purchase. BTW, I didn't buy the Spider I did borrow it from a friend.


Does a well calibrated greyscale free from red push. I know the greyscale will be warmer than the setting I'm using now.


Also, what can I do with my brain, when I'm used to cold/blue white and like it a lot?


I didn't find any brain replacement yet!


Pitou!



Quote:
Also, what can I do with my brain, when I'm used to cold/blue white and like it a lot?

Click to expand...

Do you understand that a blue-ish white means that the entire gray scale will also be tinted blue? Do you also understand that tinting the gray scale will tint all colors as well? A good analogy would be to say that you prefer all photographs to be printed on blue tinted paper, rather than neutral white. Do you also prefer to live your life wearing blue tinted glasses? Is your real name Bono?


Best regards and beautiful pictures,

G. Alan Brown, President

CinemaQuest, Inc.

A LionAV Consultants Affiliate


"Advancing the art and science of electronic imaging"

@Michael,


Ok I'll try to aim higher using the Spyder. One question though, will it be the equivalent to D65 using a good known probe?



@GeorgeAB,


Your comparaisons are excellent, to be honest, I never realized it before.


And no, I don't want to wear blue glasses like Bono all the time, although I'm a big U2 fan!


Thanks for opening my eyes.


Pitou!

Greetings


It gets you way closer than accepting the spyder at face value.


Always good to have optical reference to compare it to.


A kodak Graycard and a D65 back light can work as a poorman comparator device.


regards

Greetings


Was even worse when they were still using organic pigments for color. The discoloration would get worse and worse over time ... as the pigments reacted to the UV light from the bulb. Same thing as putting a poster in the sunlight and watching it fade to some weird color after 6 months.


I really don't know why even the inorganic panels still have discoloration, but they do. This is why they continue to be pink gray on one side and green gray on the other side ... pink on top and green on bottom. the intensity of this non-uniformity varies from unit to unit. (maybe inability to lay down consistent levels of color over a surface causes this. Sort of like painting a sheet of glass ... never the same thickness over the whole sheet.)


Doesn't ever seem to be as bad on the LCOS side of things but that is still luck of the draw.


Not so much on flat panels ... just a projector thing.


regards

Michael,


ok understand. Now, I just re-read the difference of technology between the i1 LT and i1 pro. Your sugestion is that a spectroradiometer/spectrophotometer is better than a tri stim for this kind of setup (i.e. LCD front projection).


1- Does a spectro good for any kind of device? I might calibrate some other devices too.


2- Now price come into play. How much is a i1 Pro? An i1 LT is about 150$


Thanks!


Pitou!

greetings


never say never, but the spectro device would be expected to handle any of the TV tech out there right now.


$700 to $1000 is the usual range of the i1pro. Precision instruments cost money. A neon cost less than a Lexus too ...


A $150 device that gives you wrong readings is still a device that gives you wrong readings. Sure it is cheaper ... but I can give you wrong readings for even less money. I'll just shout them out to you and it will cost you $20 ...


regards