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But is a dE difference of 0.01 vs 0.001 really going to make that difference?

I think some people are splitting hairs here and that's fine if they want to have perfection. Personally, you aren't going to see that difference.

These TVs have their own inherent issues like DSE, vignetting etc.....

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What about some sets that have non defeatable local dimming (unless you go into the service menu). Or is everyone in that situation going in to the service menu to defeat that setting?
 

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What about some sets that have non defeatable local dimming (unless you go into the service menu). Or is everyone in that situation going in to the service menu to defeat that setting?
If you can't disable local dimming then you can use 100% full field patterns for SDR.

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What about some sets that have non defeatable local dimming (unless you go into the service menu). Or is everyone in that situation going in to the service menu to defeat that setting?
With the Samsung there is nothing you can do with local dimming but on the OLEDs you can use calman's pattern insertion to defeat it when set up properly vs going into the service menu. For most LCD TVs you can turn off local dimming in the user menu like with the Sony.while calibrating.
 
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I have a disturbing question.
When I calibrate my Sony Oled, I put my Xrite Display pro directly contact on my oled. The xrite is on a tripod.
Will I get better results if I don't use contact with the screen.
Do I have to put a distance of 10 cm?
What is the method?
Let me just say because this keeps coming up over and over again. So as D-Nice just posted, matching FOV is important for accuracy but with some of these meters it can be hard to aim them properly and you may wind up getting worse results so best to experiment and develop you own process to get the best possible result in a consistent manor.
 

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I have a disturbing question.
When I calibrate my Sony Oled, I put my Xrite Display pro directly contact on my oled. The xrite is on a tripod.
Will I get better results if I don't use contact with the screen.
Do I have to put a distance of 10 cm?
What is the method?

Because some people just don't answer to your question I'll give it a try :)

Put the id3 at 30 cm distance and the i1pro2 at 39 cm to match the FOV.

In the past I always used this awesome tripod extension a great masterpiece from @dlj11

 

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@BlackJoker

Update: I added a picture of the Calman Fixed Grid LUT i generated on my 55CX with a Color Space LUT viewer tool. Although the LUT isn't perfect there are no "shark fins" so it's still a mystery why some get the "shark fins" and other's don't.

>>>>
Attached is the LUT i got on my 55CX and usually get when i do a fixed grid or an IRP LUT in CM. And from what i understand there were no 3DLUT improvements in CM 2020 R1. I believe that's coming soon. I believe Tyler was saying the new intelligent reading process for the i1D3 was supposed to improve the 3DLUT but apparently it's still the same from your test.

As to my LUT results, i always get that yellow anomaly no matter what i do. I've sent this into Portrait and i still don't know what's causing it but i get it every time. As you can see my blues are not perfect but not too bad either. As to the PQ, looks just as good as i get with LS, except for some slight blue banding if you go a look for it. I get very similar results to what Leon, Liberator72 was describing over the past year.
 

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Because some people just don't answer to your question I'll give it a try :)

Put the id3 at 30 cm distance and the i1pro2 at 39 cm to match the FOV.

In the past I always used this awesome tripod extension a great masterpiece from @dlj11

That is a one-tool answer to meter spacing and alignment for meter profiling. I just wish it was in production by someone...:(
 

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@jrref I count almost ten reason that showing that I used my K10-A it is not meter related and I'm pretty sure that I didn't used ”wrong” settings.
 

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Because some people just don't answer to your question I'll give it a try :)

Put the id3 at 30 cm distance and the i1pro2 at 39 cm to match the FOV.

In the past I always used this awesome tripod extension a great masterpiece from @dlj11

You are right, this is a masterpiece, i remember when you had that made up.:) I don't use the i1Pro2 any more but for those who do, this device would be really useful. I've personally had a lot of trouble aiming my i1Pro2 when i used it. Maybe you can market the plans to this device?

I like the laser pointers on the higher end devices and i know DeWayne like his optical system he uses so everyone who attempts this needs to find what works for them.

BTW maybe we should make a AVS thread with the distances for the correct FOV for all these devices that we know of? Not sure if Ted had a link? so everyone can go to one place to get the data.
 
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BTW maybe we should make a AVS thread with the distances for the correct FOV for all these devices that we know of? Not sure if Ted had a link? so everyone can go to one place to get the data.
Well, I've already linked to the existing thread which has a good discussion about FOVs, and I answered Masterwarzombie's question, and gave a very nice and very easy method how to calculate the two FOVs. :)

Maybe my font/spoon wasn't big enough? See >>THIS POSTTHIS POST
 

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@jrref I count almost ten reason that showing that I used my K10-A it is not meter related and I'm pretty sure that I didn't used ”wrong” settings.
Got it, I sent you a PM on this. :)
 

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Has anyone with a C6 HDR2000 and a recent generation display for which the C6 has a display meter mode, compared calibration results using that EDR vs profiling with an i1Pro? I'm interested to know how much of an end difference there is (did it actually affect the final display settings), and if you have some way to tell which one was more accurate for your panel.
 

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If you can't disable local dimming then you can use 100% full field patterns for SDR.
With the Samsung there is nothing you can do with local dimming but on the OLEDs you can use calman's pattern insertion to defeat it when set up properly vs going into the service menu. For most LCD TVs you can turn off local dimming in the user menu like with the Sony.while calibrating.
That is correct. I use the 100% full field with my Q9FN and it works fine.


Can anyone post the distance back I need to place my I1Pro 2 to match the field of view of my I1D3 when it is on the screen.
Or, is it much better to move both of them off screen for a meter profile.

Thanks,

LeRoy
I've been putting both in the middle of the screen dead center flat against the screen, making sure they are totally flat and in the same spot. seems to work, or am I not getting something right?
 

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I've been putting both in the middle of the screen dead center flat against the screen, making sure they are totally flat and in the same spot. seems to wotk, or am I not getting something right?
That's what I do as well. I don't worry about the FOV.

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Well, I've already linked to the existing thread which has a good discussion about FOVs, and I answered Masterwarzombie's question, and gave a very nice and very easy method how to calculate the two FOVs. :)

Maybe my font/spoon wasn't big enough? See >>THIS POSTTHIS POST
 

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Because some people just don't answer to your question I'll give it a try :)

Put the id3 at 30 cm distance and the i1pro2 at 39 cm to match the FOV.

In the past I always used this awesome tripod extension a great masterpiece from @dlj11

Merci Monsieur
have no I1 pro 2 but only a poor Xrite. Not easy to find in France an I1 pro 2 ......
I find your tripod very ingenious

Laurent
 

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On the point "You have to check your 3DLUT Files" - definitely agree with this also, but we can't without those software tools to show that stuff, sadly. Once you have those tools, then you know what's happening without having to waste time uploading a bad 3DLUT to the TV. Only people who own both software packages would be in a position to do that :(
After reading the forum for a while now i actually just registered to say that you don't necessarily need the other software which shall not be named to plot the 3DLUTs. Any somewhat decent graphical data analyzing software (and with that i mean NOT Excel) will do. For example here my latest calibration with calman 2020 beta and an I1D3 plottet in origin2020 (which has a fully functional trial for 21 days of use originlab.com/demodownload.aspx).

imgur.com/a/73j5dZO

i cant upload any images or insert full links since this is my first post so just copy the urls over.
If this is old news and i just misunderstood your post than feel free to ignore my post :)
 

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After reading the forum for a while now i actually just registered to say that you don't necessarily need the other software which shall not be named to plot the 3DLUTs. Any somewhat decent graphical data analyzing software (and with that i mean NOT Excel) will do. For example here my latest calibration with calman 2020 beta and an I1D3 plottet in origin2020 (which has a fully functional trial for 21 days of use originlab.com/demodownload.aspx).

imgur.com/a/73j5dZO

i cant upload any images or insert full links since this is my first post so just copy the urls over.
If this is old news and i just misunderstood your post than feel free to ignore my post :)
Thanks, that's interesting, but it's expensive if you're not a student!

How do you get your calibration data into the Origin software? Which file do you import in the software, in which format?
 

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After reading the forum for a while now i actually just registered to say that you don't necessarily need the other software which shall not be named to plot the 3DLUTs. Any somewhat decent graphical data analyzing software (and with that i mean NOT Excel) will do. For example here my latest calibration with calman 2020 beta and an I1D3 plottet in origin2020 (which has a fully functional trial for 21 days of use originlab.com/demodownload.aspx).
In reality this is beyond the understanding and capabilities of most users though, so there is a ton of value in having useful graphs available in the application without doing anything.

I make some of my own graphs for some things using free SW python and plot.ly (eg here is a comparison of dE2K for a verification cube of TMC vs FCMM probe compensation), and I'd wholeheartedly suggest if you are of an analytical bent you can find out a lot about your software, equipment and devices from playing around with various charts of captured or generated 3D data. But there's no substitute for having access to the charts you need when you need them in the app itself, so I applaud any efforts at better charting within applications.

FCMM

TMC
 

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Thanks, that's interesting, but it's expensive if you're not a student!

How do you get your calibration data into the Origin software? Which file do you import in the software, in which format?
Calman stores your LUTs in the folder "C:\Users\xxxxxxx\Documents\Portrait Displays\CalMAN 5 Home\LUTs". The files with ending.3dl are the files you searching for. unfortunately they also put a lot of files there for each calibration which contain a a unity LUT, so you have to search for the right one (usually it has a different filesize then the other .3dl files for the same calibration session timestamp. This file you can directly open in excel, origin or any text editor.

In reality this is beyond the understanding and capabilities of most users though, so there is a ton of value in having useful graphs available in the application without doing anything.

I make some of my own graphs for some things using python and plot.ly (eg here is a comparison of dE2K for a verification cube of TMC vs FCMM probe compensation), and I'd wholeheartedly suggest if you are of an analytical bent you can find out a lot about your software, equipment and devices from playing around with various charts of captured or generated 3D data. But there's no substitute for having access to the charts you need when you need them in the app itself, so I applaud any efforts at better charting within applications.
Oh I wholeheartedly agree. Especially, when a DE2000 chart seemingly isn't really telling you too much about the quality of your 3DLUT, at least from what i understand (i am still very new to the topic of display calibration, so what do in know :) )
 
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