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I made a new attempt at meter profiling: i1Pro 3, C6 HDR2000, VFPro, Samsung Q90R. I put the Q90R in Movie mode, Native color space, Local Dimming Low, 2&20 pt Grayscale reset to defaults. RawXYZ, multi-pass, using a positioning template I created displaying on a second source to try to get the two meters reading the same spot. Results from the Meter Profile Comparison tool attached, but I could use help interpreting how good/bad the result is, as I don't see any explanation on the displaycalibrationtools site. If I understand correctly, the xyY differences are within NIST tolerances? But how to interpret the red/green/black coloring of the dE values? And any suggestions as to how I could do better would be greatly appreciated as well.
 

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I made a new attempt at meter profiling: i1Pro 3, C6 HDR2000, VFPro, Samsung Q90R. I put the Q90R in Movie mode, Native color space, Local Dimming Low, 2&20 pt Grayscale reset to defaults. RawXYZ, multi-pass, using a positioning template I created displaying on a second source to try to get the two meters reading the same spot. Results from the Meter Profile Comparison tool attached, but I could use help interpreting how good/bad the result is, as I don't see any explanation on the displaycalibrationtools site. If I understand correctly, the xyY differences are within NIST tolerances? But how to interpret the red/green/black coloring of the dE values? And any suggestions as to how I could do better would be greatly appreciated as well.
Looks really great! Awesome job. All 12 are within the tolerances. (D-Nice gave them here: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-...-using-lightspace-thread-42.html#post59526278 - NB it was quite recent).

I've marked with green and blue boxes to make it clearer which numbers you need to check from those results.

Ignore the dE numbers completely, not used for our purposes, only the tolerances of the simple mathematical differences (unless there's another part of the NIST-valid test that's not hiterto been revealed of course)

That's NIST a valid profile going by those numbers and what I've learned so far. The biggest error is the luminance of blue, but don't worry, it's very dark in the first place so tricky, and anyway still within the tolerance.
 

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Yes, the patterns are still the same RGB triplets eg (255,0,0 = "full red" etc). The colours that the TV will produce when sent those patterns depend on the settings at the TV end. (This is why you have to manually intervene to set the TV's gamut as normally you'd have the TV on Auto) Therefore when you think about it, you want your profile to be made of the TV's full native gamut (the reddest red, the greenest green and the bluest blue!) not any smaller sub-set gamut like Rec. 709 or Rec. 601.
But you can only set the color space to wide or reset the 3DLUT to take the profile on the LG right? You can't do this on the Sony.
 

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A full reset should always make it bluish. Since that is what the panel native white point is.


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I know. That's why I think something is wrong with the set or the software! Because it doesn't change to bluish at all!
 

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Looks really great! Awesome job. All 12 are within the tolerances. (D-Nice gave them here: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-...-using-lightspace-thread-42.html#post59526278 - NB it was quite recent).

I've marked with green and blue boxes to make it clearer which numbers you need to check from those results.

Ignore the dE numbers completely, not used for our purposes, only the tolerances of the simple mathematical differences (unless there's another part of the NIST-valid test that's not hiterto been revealed of course)

That's NIST a valid profile going by those numbers and what I've learned so far. The biggest error is the luminance of blue, but don't worry, it's very dark in the first place so tricky, and anyway still within the tolerance.
Thank you very much for your help!
 

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I know. That's why I think something is wrong with the set or the software! Because it doesn't change to bluish at all!
Bzzt! Those are not the only two choices ;)
It could be something in your setup, connections, process, all sorts of things. The software is perfectly fine at sending the "DDC reset" commands :)
 

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I hate to drag this out, but could someone please tell me the correct settings on a sony x950g and in calman when profiling a spectro? It looks like I'm going to have to redo this so far.
 

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Looks really great! Awesome job. All 12 are within the tolerances. (D-Nice gave them here: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-...-using-lightspace-thread-42.html#post59526278 - NB it was quite recent).

I've marked with green and blue boxes to make it clearer which numbers you need to check from those results.

Ignore the dE numbers completely, not used for our purposes, only the tolerances of the simple mathematical differences (unless there's another part of the NIST-valid test that's not hiterto been revealed of course)

That's NIST a valid profile going by those numbers and what I've learned so far. The biggest error is the luminance of blue, but don't worry, it's very dark in the first place so tricky, and anyway still within the tolerance.
Yep. Good profile!
 

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I hate to drag this out, but could someone please tell me the correct settings on a sony x950g and in calman when profiling a spectro? It looks like I'm going to have to redo this so far.

Set gamut/colorspace on TV to native


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A while back I asked if anyone had compared results using one of the C6 HDR2000's built-in meter modes versus profiling their own recent model TV, and I didn't get any responses. I got curious enough to get an i1Pro 3, and having freshly minted a profile using it, went ahead with the experiment on my Samsung Q90R. I did SDR and HDR Autocals using the profile, and then did measurements using both the profile and the built-in Samsung 2019 4K QLED meter mode. Attached are comparisons, where Pre is with the profile, Post is with the EDR. Short of getting access to a better spectro, I don't think there's any way to determine which is more accurate? (In case it matters, I got the Q90R in May 2019, and probably average about 10 hours/day of use. Also got the C6 HDR2000 in May 2019.)
 

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A while back I asked if anyone had compared results using one of the C6 HDR2000's built-in meter modes versus profiling their own recent model TV, and I didn't get any responses. I got curious enough to get an i1Pro 3, and having freshly minted a profile using it, went ahead with the experiment on my Samsung Q90R. I did SDR and HDR Autocals using the profile, and then did measurements using both the profile and the built-in Samsung 2019 4K QLED meter mode. Attached are comparisons, where Pre is with the profile, Post is with the EDR. Short of getting access to a better spectro, I don't think there's any way to determine which is more accurate? (In case it matters, I got the Q90R in May 2019, and probably average about 10 hours/day of use. Also got the C6 HDR2000 in May 2019.)
I'd go with the profile you built. Not only is the gray scale better, but the Color Checker points are a better match to their target boxes. Next would be to view the patterns on Ted's disk, or some content you're familiar with, looking for artifacts. As you said, it would take a pro-level spectro to make a real determination.
 

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I'd go with the profile you built. Not only is the gray scale better, but the Color Checker points are a better match to their target boxes.
I think the profile measurements look better because the calibration was done using the profile. For example, here's SDR results from a previous calibration where I used the EDR.
 

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I think the profile measurements look better because the calibration was done using the profile. For example, here's SDR results from a previous calibration where I used the EDR.

I would just use the meter profiling workflow to compare them.


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But you can only set the color space to wide or reset the 3DLUT to take the profile on the LG right? You can't do this on the Sony.
I hate to drag this out, but could someone please tell me the correct settings on a sony x950g and in calman when profiling a spectro? It looks like I'm going to have to redo this so far.
Set gamut/colorspace on TV to native
@jrref, please see @WiFi-Spy's answer. WiFi-Spy many thanks for the confirmation :).
 

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alright, to make sure I have this perfectly clear, I should set the TV to HDR10, on the Calman side I should just leave those controls alone, because I had been using Rec709 with Power 2.2 when profiling the meter. Leaving the controls alone gives me Rec709 and BT1887. I just want to make sure I have this absolutely correct on my next go round. Anybody to the dumb member in the room here?
 
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