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Just a word of warning that may apply to you so it may be worth considering. @mrtickleuk tried the DV Config only trick and allowed CalMAN to upload it to the the TV. DO NOT DO THIS. When this happened he was not able to revert to factory DV Config after the fact using the USB trick. Now, it must be said that his TV is 2018 LG OLED, while ours are 2019 models. When I did this I was able to fully restore factory DV Config by resetting the picture mode from the user menu and others have been able to too. But I recall at least one person (it may have been you actually) that couldn't.



So, I would advise that when it comes to the DV Config file creation, when it generates, store it to a known location (eg Desktop), copy it to USB and load it to the TV that way (remembering to use the file with the 2019 suffix). This way you are sure that you will be able to return to factory DV Config without having to Factory Reset again.


Probably because 2018 and 2019 have different format DV configuration files. They are not interchangeable.
I know, which is why I clearly stated to remember to use the file with the 2019 suffix as the user has a 2019 TV.

But that wasn’t the point. Some are finding that factory DV Config cannot be restored if you let a newly generated one be loaded via CalMAN, whereas if you load it manually via USB you can always revert it back to factory.

It is not a criticism, or an argument or anything like that, it’s an observation and a potential workaround/fix.
 
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Why don't you make just a simple 2p white balance adjustment and aim 700 nits peak white in the service menu for HDR that's all I need for my C8. There is no need for a complete 1D LUT and 3D LUT matrix calibration. You have better EOTF tracking, and Grayscale is almost perfect without raised blacks.
Hi, could I also get a tutorial on this please? I was watching Captain America First Avenger last night and in a scene where it faded to Black it was ‘grey’.

Thanks for your help.
 

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One idea which has been put forward is that there's something nasty in that Calman workflow which locks out the picture settings as well as uploading the config file.
That's kind of what I'm thinking, that the USB config file upload/restore lockout may be linked with the other lockouts (white balance, etc.) that occur when the TV detects that an AutoCal has been performed on a picture mode (however it detects that). On a 9 series that may mean the that USB config file upload/reset functionality would be restored by a reset of the affected picture mode, even though apparently that does not in itself restore the factory DV config file.

Some are finding that factory DV Config cannot be restored if you let a newly generated one be loaded via CalMAN, whereas if you load it manually via USB you can always revert it back to factory.
Has it been confirmed that USB upload and restore to factory options both remain available when the DV picture mode is in a AutoCal locked state (white balance, etc. grayed out) without resetting the picture mode first?
 

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That's kind of what I'm thinking, that the USB config file upload/restore lockout may be linked with the other lockouts (white balance, etc.) that occur when the TV detects that an AutoCal has been performed on a picture mode (however it detects that). On a 9 series that may mean the that USB config file upload/reset functionality would be restored by a reset of the affected picture mode, even though apparently that does not in itself restore the factory DV config file.

Has it been confirmed that USB upload and restore to factory options remain available when the DV picture mode is in a AutoCal locked state (white balance, etc. grayed out) without resetting the picture mode first?
Nothing has been confirmed one way or another. Different people are reporting different things. @mrtickleuk, on his 2018 C8, was able to freely use the USB DV Config file upload/restore method before he used AutoCal....Once he used AutoCal and allowed CalMAN to upload the DV Config from within the software, he lost the ability to restore the factory DV Config from USB when he realised colours were muted and undersaturated.

I myself, when I noticed the black clipping in the pattern you suggested, reset the picture mode on my C9 from the user menu and the clipping was still there. So I restored the factory DV Config using the USB method and it fixed it. There were at least two others that said they were able to do the same on their C9's. But there was definitely at least one other person (I thought it was you but I might be mistaken) who said no matter what they tried they could NOT restore the factory DV Config even after resetting the picture mode from the user menu on their C9, leading to suggest the same behaviour as the 2018 series on that particular TV...Differences in firmware maybe???? Who knows....

This is the ONLY reason I suggest loading the DV Config via USB. It may potentially save you headaches and the need to factory reset your TV again.

The following isn't directed towards the post quoted, more of a generalised comment.

The simple fact is, despite what many will say, HDR and DV calibration is a complete clusterf&*k on these TV's. It works better for some than it does for others, and even when it does work, there are other issues introduced. HDR raised black and DV black clipping being the obvious two. Some people won't like it and others will likely disagree, but I completely agree with @BlackJoker. Service Menu Gain calibration, with potentially a tweak to the user menu 2 Point white balance gives the best, most consistent results. If you don't have access to the Service Menu, or do not know how to do it there, just tweak the user menu 2 Point white balance and forget about it.

Now, I know there will likely be many that say this is hogwash and because I am not a Pro I don't know what I'm talking about. That's great, and I accept that. I'm not here to argue, I have simply tried to give some advice based on my findings and the findings of several others that I talk to a regular basis that all see the exact same thing I do, some of which ARE professional calibrators. So whether you take that advice or not is entirely up to you.
 

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Interesting, where in the service menu is the peak white setting for HDR?
You've misread this part, it's not referring to the service menu. To get your 700 nits peak, you need to adjust OLED Light in the normal user menu. (Eg for me I have to reduce it to 87). But I can see how you read it.

With BlackJoker's permission, I will rephrase what he wrote:
"make just a simple 2p white balance adjustment in the service menu,
and aim 700 nits peak white (in the user menu)"

HTH
 

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And also, it isn’t technically required on the 2019 series as you have the ability to upload peak brightness to the TV to set the internal tone mapping to the correct peak output ;)
 

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Some people won't like it and others will likely disagree, but I completely agree with @BlackJoker. Service Menu Gain calibration, with potentially a tweak to the user menu 2 Point white balance gives the best, most consistent results.
That may be the case, but I do find it rather difficult and disappointing to accept and I can understand why others would feel the same. (Nothing to do with you not being a pro.) The capability (and concept) of calibration by direct access to internal LUTs is one of the things that drew me to the LG OLEDs over other options. Because of that I would find it a huge disappointment to abandon it, and it would seem like a significant waste of a capability I've long been looking forward to making use of.
 

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That may be the case, but I do find it rather difficult and disappointing to accept and I can understand why others would feel the same. (Nothing to do with you not being a pro.) The capability (and concept) of calibration by direct access to internal LUTs is one of the things that drew me to the LG OLEDs over other options. Because of that I would find it a huge disappointment to abandon it, and it would seem like a significant waste of a capability I've long been looking forward to making use of.
Fair enough, but the 1D LUT doesn't work, so why chase after the impossible? This isn't the fault of CalMAN, this is an LG issue as we discovered by loading the 1D LUT by other means....

I'm not suggesting you or anyone else do not have the right to be upset or disappointed. Of course you do. I was too! But I've gotten over it and accepted the fact that unless LG themselves release a fix in a future firmware update, there is absolutely no point in trying to solve the unsolvable. Surely you can see that?

To be clear, we are only talking HDR/DV issues here, not SDR....For SDR just use what method suits you best, I'm not getting involved in that discussion again. Whatever method you use with SDR will range from good to outstanding.
 
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That may be the case, but I do find it rather difficult and disappointing to accept and I can understand why others would feel the same. (Nothing to do with you not being a pro.) The capability (and concept) of calibration by direct access to internal LUTs is one of the things that drew me to the LG OLEDs over other options. Because of that I would find it a huge disappointment to abandon it, and it would seem like a significant waste of a capability I've long been looking forward to making use of.
Yes, I know what you mean, and I feel what you feel too. It is a disappointment, but it's not all bad. As you said earlier, you are coming to this quite late in the day. At the end of the day if anyone reading this wants to understand fully all the learning that took place over a very long time among a very large group of people collaborating, there's nothing to do except read it all too. I would suggest several main threads.
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-display-calibration/2962814-2018-lg-oled-calibration-user-settings-no-price-talk.html
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-display-calibration/3043520-lg-oled-s-3d-lut-profiling-using-lightspace-thread.html
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-display-calibration/3042154-2019-lg-oled-calibration-user-settings-no-price-talk.html

NB: This is to give a full picture - if you only focus on Calman, that's not the full picture. Much of the learning and innovation took place outwith the Calman ecosystem, and then can be fed back into the Calman ecosystem to improve the results there, so only a fool would ignore that side of things and close his mind to it.

As in real life, there are disputes and arguments - and some bad behaviour on all sides - as well as help and agreements, but overall, there is learning and advancements in the collective knowledge. You cannot pick and choose unfortunately. All you can do is read it ALL, and then sit back and assess. If you are the "just give me the consensus, man" type of reader, then that's fine, but you have to accept that you will not get the best results possible from calibrating these TVs. If you want the best results possible, you have to put the time in. Good luck and I'll see you again in 4 months :)
 

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It is very, very good, and the drift plot is as flat as a pancake :D
Come on then, who do we have to PM to get a copy - says the person who has not even got LS connected to my panel yet - had to wait for a longer HDMI lead to be delivered - ready to go now.............................

Hopeful, Mike.
 

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Come on then, who do we have to PM to get a copy - says the person who has not even got LS connected to my panel yet - had to wait for a longer HDMI lead to be delivered - ready to go now.............................

Hopeful, Mike.
The person who built the patchset did so by using various different tools, edited it by hand and then run it through another custom made script to sort it optimally for the way OLED displays shift and fluctuate during profiling to keep the drift minimal during the entire profiling stage. He then did the same thing with a verification patchset. Hours of work went into its creation so I’m not sure it’s something he’s giving away freely. I am only fortunate to have it as I tested it for him. He does frequently visit these forums and I will let him know that someone is interested in it and maybe he will PM you.
 
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The person who built the patchset did so by using various different tools, edited it by hand and then run it through another custom made script to sort it optimally for the way OLED displays shift and fluctuate during profiling to keep the drift minimal during the entire profiling stage. He then did the same thing with a verification patchset. Hours of work went into its creation so I’m not sure it’s something he’s giving away freely. I am only fortunate to have it as I tested it for him. He does frequently visit these forums and I will let him know that someone is interested in it and maybe he will PM you.
It sounds like a labour of love, I will not pester anyone. Also, my "low end" meters will probably not do it justice.

I may go with a reasonably large patchset, then try using the Augmented Data feature in LS to add extra GS points - but I'm getting way off the thread's topic, so I'll stop now, and save my questions for the appropriate thread.

Best regards, stay safe, Mike.
 

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That may be the case, but I do find it rather difficult and disappointing to accept and I can understand why others would feel the same. (Nothing to do with you not being a pro.) The capability (and concept) of calibration by direct access to internal LUTs is one of the things that drew me to the LG OLEDs over other options. Because of that I would find it a huge disappointment to abandon it, and it would seem like a significant waste of a capability I've long been looking forward to making use of.
I think too much has been made about the LG 1D LUTs. I have yet to ever see or have someone point out any artifacts caused by using the 1D LUT in actual content. Very subtle differences in a shallow grayscale ramp rarely ever show up in actual content. The only reasonable reason I see for not doing the 1D LUT on 2018/2019 TVs is to leave the grayscale controls unlocked for subtle perceptual white point tweaks for matching to a reference monitor in a color grading suite.

But this is now not an issue on the 2020 models because LG leaves the RGB High controls unlocked and has those controls tweak the custom 1D LUT. This feature was the #1 request of Hollywood post production facilities.
 

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Why don't you make just a simple 2p white balance adjustment and aim 700 nits peak white in the service menu for HDR that's all I need for my C8. There is no need for a complete 1D LUT and 3D LUT matrix calibration. You have better EOTF tracking, and Grayscale is almost perfect without raised blacks.
I thought this did not fix the raised blacks as liberator72 still sees it.

If so, i'd love to try it. I have acquired a service remote now and disabled TPC.

I am just not sure how to do what you are suggesting. Would appreciate a guide as the extent of my knowledge is from Tyler's video guide.

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
 

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I did and it made no difference, but I can't remember for certain now if that was just before or just after the 04.71.25 update. I'll be doing a new one soon and check again. I'm hoping you're correct and it has been fixed. I'm one who never needed the jeweler's loupe to see it, just a completely dark environment with no bias or other light.
Since I was the first to post and describe this problem (raised black levels after 1D LUT upload) here and Tyler only became aware of it because of this, here is my current status on the subject.


  • HDR Cinema Mode: calibrated with firmware v04.71.05.
    Does no longer show raised black levels on my TV (as described here 4 months ago). With firmware versions prior to v04.71.05 it always had the same problem after a calibration with CalMAN. The firmware update alone didn't fix the issue for me, I had to recalibrate the mode (i.e. re-upload a 1D LUT).
  • HDR Technicolor Mode: calibrated with firmware v04.71.05.
    Still shows the problem with the current firmware v04.71.25. Haven't tried to recalibrate the mode yet.
  • HDR Game Mode: calibrated with firmware v04.70.05.
    This mode never had the problem.
I would also like to emphasize (again) that I have never needed a tool to see the problem with my eyes.
 

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Why don't you make just a simple 2p white balance adjustment and aim 700 nits peak white in the service menu for HDR that's all I need for my C8. There is no need for a complete 1D LUT and 3D LUT matrix calibration. You have better EOTF tracking, and Grayscale is almost perfect without raised blacks.
I thought this did not fix the raised blacks as liberator72 still sees it.

If so, i'd love to try it. I have acquired a service remote now and disabled TPC.

I am just not sure how to do what you are suggesting. Would appreciate a guide as the extent of my knowledge is from Tyler's video guide.

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
I’m sorry but you are misunderstanding what I have said. I do not see it because I use the same method by pre calibrating the Service Menu white balance. I do still see it “IF” I load a 1D LUT, but ONLY by viewing though a 30x magnification jewellers loupe. This is in both HDR Cinema and Technicolor. HDR game has no issue. I am on the latest firmware. I have NEVER been able to see it with the naked eye, I can only see it when magnified.

To me personally , it’s an non issue. I understand people being frustrated and disappointed when they calibrate to try and get better accuracy only to find that they have grey blacks on an OLED. It is not acceptable at all, I agree. But it is for LG to fix, it is an issue with the way it deals with a 1D LUT whether you load it with CalMAN or Device Control. I say it’s a non issue for me because a 2 point white balance adjustment does a very decent job on its own. There’s no need for any further tweaks.

If you are not comfortable with doing it in the Service Menu, then use the user menu 2 Point white balance controls and adjust it there. It will work well and you will not have raised blacks.
 
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I’m sorry but you are misunderstanding what I have said. I do not see it because I use the same method by pre calibrating the Service Menu white balance. I do still see it “IF” I load a 1D LUT, but ONLY by viewing though a 30x magnification jewellers loupe. This is in both HDR Cinema and Technicolor. HDR game has no issue. I am on the latest firmware. I have NEVER been able to see it with the naked eye, I can only see it when magnified.

To me personally , it’s an non issue. I understand people being frustrated and disappointed when they calibrate to try and get better accuracy only to find that they have grey blacks on an OLED. It is not acceptable at all, I agree. But it is for LG to fix, it is an issue with the way it deals with a 1D LUT whether you load it with CalMAN or Device Control. I say it’s a non issue for me because a 2 point white balance adjustment does a very decent job on its own. There’s no need for any further tweaks.

If you are not comfortable with doing it in the Service Menu, then use the user menu 2 Point white balance controls and adjust it there. It will work well and you will not have raised blacks.
OK. I did misunderstand. So, I could be comfortable... just not knowledgeable on either method on how. I have the service remote just need some guidance.

This is what I and others are asking help with as I have not found any tutorials or Youtube videos that help explain the process.

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
 

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I have the service remote just need some guidance.
You can find something from here:
https://www.displaycalibrations.com/lg_2018_oled_profiling_using_lightspace.html

When I bought LightSpace I got step by step guiding from Ted Aspiotis, I´m sure he not get upset if I share this part at here (you can find same steps from AVS forum):

Select from TV remote the Picture preset you want to profile. (ISF Dark Room, as an example)


From regular TV menu press to reset that picture mode.


Then disabled all enhancements and also disabled all power-saving functions (General -> ECO, General -> Timer, TCP and all others inside that picture mode


Select the ‘Cool’ color temperature model using the regular TV menu.


Enter to Service Menu, go to White Balance (take still pictures of the values per each color-temp, cool, medium, warm if you like to know the default values, not required just in case you need to restore to default if you want to sell the TV, for example).


Then set to all color temp modes (cool, medium, warm) RGB Gains 192.192.192 and RGB Cuts 64.64.64 before you exist SM, select Cool, then exit. (never press reset to White Balance in Service Menu)


Using Device Control, make the connection with TV by requesting and writing back the PIN. (don’t enable calibration yet)


then, set the meter settings and generation settings:




AIO mode 0.75, extra delay 0.5, Stabilization 0.350, intelligent integration 1, patch scale 16-255.


If you want 100 nits to peak white calibrated, then enter manually 123 nits, to the Luminance max using your keyboard.


This will help you later to for the pre-cal or 109% White.


To the LG, disconnect any other connected HDMI cables except the HDMI of your generator because during the profiling, if by accident one connected device will power-on, then it will popup the window of that HDMI as notification, we don’t this to happen as an accident. Also before you start profiling, leave the TV remote somewhere no-one can press a button by mistake (or remove one battery)


Go to the calibration interface.






Click to the red stroke area, and it will popup a patch window. Doing this, then automatically appear to your screen the patch window (in case an external pattern generator, for PGenerator I don’t know) for PC patch generator, you have to move that window as an extended desktop to the LG TV area.


Before enabling calibration from DeviceControl, send any patch RGB triplet, for the TV to receive an SDR signal, so when you will enable the calibration, LG to select the SDR LUT slot.


After you will enable calibration, select your picture mode (ISF Dark Room) and press restore calibration values. Then reset 3D LUT and disable calibration.


Now do to the regular menu and open the settings, you will see the colorspace selection is not selectable any more; this means that the 3D LUT you send is loaded successfully.


Select gamma 2.2, which is the bypass gamma setting, keep Contrast at 85 and Brightness at 50.


To get about 123 nits, set the OLED light to 30, for starting point.


Then select from calibration interface the 255.255.255 patch and measure it. Press stop; for the meter stop reading; and set sliders 0.0.0 for the TV to cool down.


To the target Y, you will see 123 nits; this will help you to adjust the OLED light later, while you will look from the RGB bars also.
Look at the RGB bars, and see what colors have more luminance, the blue and green channels will have more. (The W bar is dE)



Enter to Service Menu, go to White Balance, Cool, and remove values from green and blue, keep Red at 192 for even.


Close the service menu and do the procedure above with green letters. Look at the RGB bars widget of LightSpace again.


When you see that you have less red, it means you have reduced more than required green or blue. Keep red at 192 all the time.


The reason why we are not able to perform manual cal from inside the Service menu is because of an SM bug of 2019 models. They force the OLED light to 100 and can’t be adjustable to the OLED Light slider inside the Service menu.


There is an alternative way also, to start correcting the initial more significant RGB channel errors.


Start measurements of 255.255.255 and enter White Balance -> Adjust RGB values and press Back from remote. Doing this, it will return to the first SM menu where your regular menu OLED Light value will be working, so you will be able to measure WB there without exiting the SM completely.


When you will fix RGB balance errors, adjust the OLED Light from the regular menu if required, we need 123 nits with 10% window pattern and dE below 0.5dE2000 before starting the profiling.
 
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