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I’m not sure how the LUT would load without re-doing the calibration, since Calman was already disconnected leaving nowhere for the LUT to load from. I don’t think I can evaluate whether the undersaturation of color is occurring until after I’ve unchecked “Enable Calibration” and I’ve disconnected from the iTPG. I was short on time last night, so I’ll re-investigate when I have more time. I do know that I didn’t have this issue my previous calibration which was done with 2020 R2. I may end up having to redo the calibration with 2020 R2 unless I figure this out.

Update: I power cycled the TV without re-doing the calibration, and no change.

I took a couple of photos to demonstrate the difference. Of course they don't exactly match what I'm seeing on screen. The first image is with uncalibrated HDR Technicolor Expert. This is the approximate color saturation level I'm expecting for HDR. The second is HDR Cinema calibrated with 2021 Beta. In reality on screen when in the calibrated Cinema mode, the liquid in the glass and the pomegranate seeds at least slightly closer to the brownish color of tea than red.

Technicolor Expert uncalibrated:
View attachment 3119803

Cinema 2021 Beta calibration:
View attachment 3119806

This is closer to what it looks like to me on screen:
View attachment 3119812
I have seen it recommended when Dolby Vision calibrations don't seem to take hold/go wrong. But John already responded with a recommendation.
 

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Where is the 10hr version for hdr and dolby vision?I know there is one for sdr.
There is only a 10 hour long one for SDR. You shouldn’t need longer than an hour for HDR. You could try restarting the video after the gray scale is complete.
 

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Where is the 10hr version for hdr and dolby vision?I know there is one for sdr.
Sorry I just looked and you are right, it's only for SDR. Though I would say that one shouldn't be taking that long with HDR/DV, you want that to be quick to prevent thermal drift. Others can comment better than I on this but it's possible it's making the calibration worse by taking that long. Another option is to restart the video after the 1D LUT portion is done.

Edit: Tyler beat me to it.
 

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There is only a 10 hour long one for SDR. You shouldn’t need longer than an hour for HDR. You could try restarting the video after the gray scale is complete.
I was going to try lower the delta e target to 0.2 which adds a touch more time to the readings.Would you advise changing the pattern insertion?
 

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Do you think its down to LG oq1

I don't think the 8 series has the internal patterns.
Ive got the 8 series oled and you can just connect the i1 display to the laptop then hdmi cable from laptop to the tv and then use the manual source in drop down on the top right to use the in built greyscale and color patches in calman to autocal
 

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I ran more SDR calibrations and didn't have any single problem with the beta and the posterization problem is gone.

I'll do HDR and game mode this week.
 

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I try to calibrate my projector AU810pw with Calman Home for LG with my Spyder 5 colormeter.

What Session Setup should I choose for DUAL Laser Projector:
1. Display Type: OLED or LCD?
2. Source Pattern: which to select? Full 100% or window 10% or another?
3. Gamma Formula Suggestions for Projector HDR: same as OLED or LCD? Power 2.4 or BT.1886?

What is the Meter Setting for Spyder 5?:
1. Meter display type for Spyder 5: LCD (CCFL) or LCD (CCFL wide gamut) or LCD (LED)
2. Low Light Trigger? 0.5 cd/m2 or higher?


For SDR calibration der are also some more questions:
1. Measure Luminance in SDR for Projector? Target Y is also cd/m2=100? And where to set up? With Iris?
2. Which Display Controls to adjust during Dinamic Range with the au810pw

I hope someone has allready expirience with the AU810pw and has some answers.
 

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Has anyone experienced the following with the Shadow detail control?

I'm using the 2021 beta though this also happened using 2020.

In order to view the pattern through USB stick I need to deselect Pattern On/Off in the main settings so I'm not sure if this might be a factor. Now, when I change the values on the Shadow detail control there is no way to judge the outcome. There is only an update to the image once I hit Commit, and once committed the setting is locked in unless a full DDC reset is chosen.

I have now found that just by simply pressing commit without altering any of the values the shadow detail changes and becomes far too bright also resulting in rolling lines across the whole image. It seems to update to this point no matter the values that are input before hitting submit.

So, altering the values before pressing commit has no effect to make a judgement, and simply pressing submit without even making any adjustments raises the shadow detail level far too high which can then not be altered.

I have tried this straight from hitting a full DDC reset as well as after autocal.

Any ideas what is going on?
 

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Ive got the 8 series oled and you can just connect the i1 display to the laptop then hdmi cable from laptop to the tv and then use the manual source in drop down on the top right to use the in built greyscale and color patches in calman to autocal
Thanks I will try this later,is it here under source?

Edit: I figured out how to do it,good spot

Screenshot_20210407_125739_com.android.chrome_edit_141243528563342.jpg
 

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Hello everyone,

First of all, excuse me for my English (i'm French), and sorry if the question has have already asked here.

I'm a "new born" in calibration. My last two OLED was calibrate by a professionnel.

I will buy soon the new LG 83C1, and i'm very interested to learn more about calibration and do it by myself.

I have some questions just to be sure i understand all :

1) With LG Home Calman we don't need to use pattern generator in SDR, HDR and DV? so we don't have to use for exemple in HDR the Munsel disc? to calibrate for HDR 1000 nits, 4000 nits 10000 nits, you need to create many profile?
2) i have a BD Player, a mutimedia player and a PS5, when you calibrate, did you put the USB on the TV or directly in BD Player, PS5 etc ? It's simple to calibrate game SDR and HDR mode ?
3) During your calibration do you adjust the brightness and contrast measure? i know in 2019 it will be impossible without a spectrometer, i don't know if it's always the case or not. If it is how do you calibrate the brightness and contrast ?
4) For SDR and HDR it's better to calibrate in Expert or in Filmmaker mode?
5) For you wich is better between I1 display pro and C6 HDR2000 ? and why?

Thank you for your help and have a nice day
Salut je suis francais également , on peut ce contacter en MP ce sera plus facile en francais..
 

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I've seen this before. If you can, do a factory reset then do the HDR calibration first and see if you still get the same problem. My guess is you won't.
Thanks John. Tyler is assisting me with this now, and I'm holding the factory reset in reserve for the moment. I want to avoid having to re-enter all the settings, select and download apps, etc. if I can, and I've found that HDR peak brightness varies by 100 nits or more after a factory reset and takes an undermined number of hours or cycles before it stabilizes, making it difficult to accurately set for the HDR tone curves for some time after such a reset.

I do think I did get a similar undersaturation of color with an HDR calibration once before, but simply reperforming the calibration corrected it. I may have mis-configured something in Calman that time. I've checked and re-checked the settings this time (3 calibration attempts), and I'm not finding anything mis-configured. Again, my last HDR calibration with 2020 R2 (done a couple of months ago) didn't have this undersaturation issue, and there's been no change on the C9 (firmware, settings, etc.) so it seems to be isolated to the 2021 Beta. I'm strongly considering making a calibration attempt with 2020 R2 now to more positively isolate the issue to the Beta rather than something that's possibly changed on the C9 since my last 2020 R2 HDR calibration.
 
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Thanks John. Tyler is assisting me with this now, and I'm holding the factory reset in reserve for the moment. I want to avoid having to re-enter all the settings, select and download apps, etc. if I can, and I've found that HDR peak brightness varies by 100 nits or more after a factory reset and takes an undermined number of hours or cycles before it stabilizes, making it difficult to accurately set for the HDR tone curves for some time after such a reset.

I do think I did get a similar undersaturation of color with an HDR calibration once before, but simply reperforming the calibration corrected it. I may have mis-configured something in Calman that time. I've checked and re-checked the settings this time (3 calibration attempts), and I'm not finding anything mis-configured. Again, my last HDR calibration with 2020 R2 (done a couple of months ago) didn't have this undersaturation issue, and there's been no change on the C9 (firmware, settings, etc.) so it seems to be isolated to the 2021 Beta. I'm strongly considering making a calibration attempt with 2020 R2 now to more positively isolate the issue to the Beta rather than something that's possibly changed on the C9 since my last 2020 R2 HDR calibration.
Not saying that the 2021 doesn’t have some great things coming but all my problems were resolved when I redid my calibration with the downgrade back to CalMan 2020 software.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Not saying that the 2021 doesn’t have some great things coming but all my problems were resolved when I redid my calibration with the downgrade back to CalMan 2020 software.
This is what beta testing is about. Hopefully we can help identify these types of issues and isolate their causes so they can be corrected for the release candidate version.
 

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I had that problem but it was with selecting my tv. There where missing names in drop menu. This only happened the first time I started calman, no problems anymore.
I have been in touch with Portrait Displays technical support and have sent them some log files they requested but the problem has not been solved yet. No matter what I try I am unable to connect to the display properly. The TV reports "Calibration start" but the display tab stays yellow. I am on firmware 03.21.18, is every one else who is on this firmware able to finish the calibration?
As a side note, what kind of experiences do you have with Portrait Displays technical support? I am not too happy with how this one guy who answered my request for help started telling me that "YOU" should do this and that. As far as I know using capital letters in emails means shouting, something I politely reminded the guy about and I also don't think it is acceptable for technical support to start shouting at their clients, clients who have paid for their software and reach out to them for help when their software doesn't work.
 

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Hi, do you have any recomendation for the ° of the TV when calibrating HDR? I just bought an infrared thermometer and I'm following Tyler recomendation of 85°F for SDR. Now I want to start with HDR but in my experience the peak brightness is higher when the TV is hot (about 7-10 nits of difference).

Thanks

Enviado desde mi SM-G998U1 mediante Tapatalk
 

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I'm not sure if this has been mentioned before but after initially selecting oled/sdr,the colour space,white point and gamma do not correspond to sdr.When i try to correct them,they take a few minutes to actually change.This is with the beta.
 

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Hi, do you have any recomendation for the ° of the TV when calibrating HDR? I just bought an infrared thermometer and I'm following Tyler recomendation of 85°F for SDR. Now I want to start with HDR but in my experience the peak brightness is higher when the TV is hot (about 7-10 nits of difference).

Thanks

Enviado desde mi SM-G998U1 mediante Tapatalk
I am currently running some test with different HDR movies, to see what the panel temperature gets to during actual HDR content.
 
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