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I am currently running some test with different HDR movies, to see what the panel temperature gets to during actual HDR content.
That would be interesting, I got a Klein infrared thermometer and put 65% white in HDR and it goes up fast, even with an A/C blowing air close to it. BTW my i1 Display Pro arrived today from Portrait, just need access granted to the beta (already filled the form when I ordered) :)
 

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That would be interesting, I got a Klein infrared thermometer and put 65% white in HDR and it goes up fast, even with an A/C blowing air close to it. BTW my i1 Display Pro arrived today from Portrait, just need access granted to the beta (already filled the form when I ordered) :)
Out of interest: How much did you pay for your i1pro 2?
 

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My calibration for hdr(cx) has really bad noise when dynamic tone mapping is on.Unfortunatley its still there,albeit not as bad when its switched off.Any suggestions as to what I can try to resolve this?Thanks
 

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For the spectro I paid a little over $350, April 2020 build

Sent from my LM-G710 using Tapatalk
Well worth it. Now you know your meter is profiled correctly and you won't have to stress over EDRs, and all the other types of matching.
 
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Well worth it. Now you know your meter is profiled correctly and you won't have to stress over EDRs, and all the other types of matching.
Yeah I stared at the pictures of the spectro a bunch of times because I couldn't believe how low the bids were. It ramped up at the end but I put in one in the last 40s to make absolutely sure no one would beat me lol. Pics included X-Rite cert with S/N, as well as 2 others of hardware with same S/N, so it was pretty legit. Still has the "please remove first" sticker. It's never been actually used, so I basically got a new spectro made last year for under $400, I couldn't believe it. Just have to wait for it to get here, will play around with EDR for now.

Any tips in terms of use? Have seen much older posts mention it shouldn't be pressed to the screen, that you want to leave a small gap, but the Pro 2s come with that strap that creates the gap anyway. And the Display Pro has those rubberized pads so it's also not directly pressing the screen, so it seems X-Rite addressed that themselves over the years.

I plan on doing the SM WB precal with 3D LUT and want to try some fun little experiments as I had an old 1D LUT made by someone else some months ago to D65, I used that to do a very crude perceptual match via SM WB before resetting, primarily to get rid of the C8's green tinge that I couldn't unsee. So I want to do the following comparisons: out of the box vs my eyeball WB (just to see how off I was) vs proper WB no 3D LUT vs proper WB and 3D LUT.

Lastly I want to compare Leon's 10m equivalent to D-Nice AWP (going to be my primary target) to D65 and Tyler's X300 perceptual match used in production houses (this last one will go on the Technicolor mode and I may use it for movies mastered on that monitor, which one can derive from the HDR metadata the UB820 gives me)

Sent from my LM-G710 using Tapatalk
 

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For the spectro I paid a little over $350, April 2020 build

Sent from my LM-G710 using Tapatalk
That‘s a great deal I‘d say. I paid roughly the same for mine, also unused, but it is an older production date.
 

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Any advice for a brighter image in calibrated SDR game mode? Calibrating around the 100nit reference is a much darker image than I want in gaming. I'd love to have accurately spaced colors but with a brighter baseline. Should I just calibrate around 100nit and then turn up the OLED light setting (currently at 29) or is there a different trick?
 

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Any advice for a brighter image in calibrated SDR game mode? Calibrating around the 100nit reference is a much darker image than I want in gaming. I'd love to have accurately spaced colors but with a brighter baseline. Should I just calibrate around 100nit and then turn up the OLED light setting (currently at 29) or is there a different trick?
Im currently calibrating at 340 nits with oled light at 80 and its plenty bright enough for how i like it also for gaming i calibrated adobe rgb for a much wider color space for vibrant an punchy colors in games an looks fantastic
 

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I did sdr calibration on both ISF bright and dark room modes on my B8 and got good results and the picture is much better but there is something I have noticed on ISF dark room,in the settings the gamma is greyed out and it shows gamma 2.2,is this right? I'm sure I selected power 2.4 but if I did select 2.2 by accident would this affect the picture quality compared to 2.4?
 

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Im currently calibrating at 340 nits with oled light at 80 and its plenty bright enough for how i like it also for gaming i calibrated adobe rgb for a much wider color space for vibrant an punchy colors in games an looks fantastic
Why Adobe RGB and not DCI-P3 or Rec 2020?

Enviado desde mi SM-G998U1 mediante Tapatalk
 

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On HDR after an autocal on my 77C9 (5.11.1.107) using an I1 display pro I get some posterization that becomes most noticeable on skin tones every now and then. If I pause the screen and flick between my calibrated picture mode and a factory default eg Technicolor HDR I can see the difference easily.

The Color is slightly improved over the already accurate factory modes but I end up having to switch to the Factory mode in order to avoid the subtle Posterization.

I guess a manual 2 point greyscale might be the only solution like I used to have to do on my C6 oled for HDR?
 

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Any advice for a brighter image in calibrated SDR game mode? Calibrating around the 100nit reference is a much darker image than I want in gaming. I'd love to have accurately spaced colors but with a brighter baseline. Should I just calibrate around 100nit and then turn up the OLED light setting (currently at 29) or is there a different trick?
Just calibrate the game mode to your desired nit/Oled Light setting plus 15-20% to factor in the light output reductions once the calibration is done.
 

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LG OLED55CXPTA. i1 Display Pro Plus. CalMan Home for LG.
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On HDR after an autocal on my 77C9 (5.11.1.107) using an I1 display pro I get some posterization that becomes most noticeable on skin tones every now and then. If I pause the screen and flick between my calibrated picture mode and a factory default eg Technicolor HDR I can see the difference easily.

The Color is slightly improved over the already accurate factory modes but I end up having to switch to the Factory mode in order to avoid the subtle Posterization.

I guess a manual 2 point greyscale might be the only solution like I used to have to do on my C6 oled for HDR?
The new LUT engine in the CalMan 2021 beta seems to be eliminating that subtle posterisation for most folks, it seems. Might be worth applying to Portrait Displays for access or just waiting a few more weeks until it's public.
 

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I have just tried doing a calibration for hdr game and failed.The software wouldn't find my meter and then when it eventually did and I tried to check the gs readings,calman put two 10% windows up and then it just crashed.
 

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I have just tried doing a calibration for hdr game and failed.The software wouldn't find my meter and then when it eventually did and I tried to check the gs readings,calman put two 10% windows up and then it just crashed.
On the session set up screen once I had entered the ip address the screen split into two gs ramps, I thought this was normal but obviously its not,then when I clicked next it missed out the ddc reset page.Any ideas?
 

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Follow up to my previous issue with HDR Cinema mode (LG C9) having undersaturated color following calibration with 2021 Beta: I made a fourth calibration attempt following a picture mode reset. While the picture mode reset restored the proper color saturation, the results after calibration again exhibited the same undersaturated color. Following this, I recalibrated using 2020 R2, and the normal/expected color saturation was restored.
 
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