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I compared my old i1d3 rev. A-02 of 2012 with i1d3 rev. B-02 of 2020 and I1pro2

GZ960E
Calman 2021
PGenerator with Ted's disc
Gamma 2.2 rec.709
"True Cinema" OOTB after 6000 working hours:
Font Electronic device Display device Technology Screenshot

Always measured at the same point on the screen.
i1d3 2012 Raw xyz:
Colorfulness Product Rectangle Screenshot Slope
i1d3 2020 RAW xyz:
Colorfulness Product Rectangle Slope Font
I1pro2:
Colorfulness Light Product Rectangle Slope
CMS i13d 2012:
Colorfulness Light Slope Font Line

i13d 2020:
Colorfulness Light Slope Font Line

I1PRO2:
Colorfulness Light Black Slope Font
i13d 2012:
Light Product Slope Rectangle Font

i13d 2020:
Light Product Slope Rectangle Font

i13d with Bodner correction:
Colorfulness Product Rectangle Slope Font

CMS i13d 2012:
Colorfulness Light Black Slope Font

i13d 2020:
Colorfulness Light Slope Font Line

i13d 2020 Bodner correction:
Colorfulness Light Slope Font Line
i13d 2012:
Light Rectangle Font Screenshot Slope

i13d 2020:
Light Rectangle Font Screenshot Line

i13d 2020 RAW XYZ:
Rectangle Font Screenshot Slope Parallel

i13d Bodner:
Light Rectangle Font Screenshot Slope

I suppose using the spectro Jeti, the "true cinema" mode out of the box will be even more accurate.
Anyway, I bleached "true cinema" with the eye (r-gain minus 4 and b-gain minus 1) and that's it! 😁
 

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Hmm, very interesting but I don't understand why you wasted time doing that last two sets of pictures. An EDR is only used instead of a meter profile if you don't have a spectro. You shouldn't do both :oops:. If you were to create, or use, a profile with an EDR in place as well, you would get unpredictable/invalid results because you're asking for two different sets of offsets to be done at the same time. Portrait's Bodner/Robinson meter profile creation video specifically says to make sure you're in RAW mode for this reason. Unfortunately the software doesn't intervene and prevent you from making this mistake, you just have to know and be careful.
 

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Hmm, very interesting but I don't understand why you wasted time doing that last two sets of pictures. An EDR is only used instead of a meter profile if you don't have a spectro. You shouldn't do both :oops:. If you were to create, or use, a profile with an EDR in place as well, you would get unpredictable/invalid results because you're asking for two different sets of offsets to be done at the same time. Portrait's Bodner/Robinson meter profile creation video specifically says to make sure you're in RAW mode for this reason. Unfortunately the software doesn't intervene and prevent you from making this mistake, you just have to know and be careful.
The aim was not to profile or calibrate, but to show all those who do not have access to the spectro or to be able calibrate their GZ if it is worthwhile to cement themselves in front of this panel with the instruments. I just took the RAW / edr measurements to show what i13d sees (and how it deviates over time) compared to i1pro2..
I created my profiles in RAW mode, following FOV and holy rules of Ted & company.
If anyone asks what can improve on this model Jeti + Klein + Murideo 6G Generator, the answer is nothing! As is the example: It will set you r-gain and g-gain to -1 and In short, you will not see any changes. The only change you will see is whiter white. But this you can do with your eyes on 80/100% of the white (acting on the 2pt menu)..

p.s. This is all about classic d65 of course. But if we calibrate, using i13d + Oled FSI_XM55U_23Jan19.edr + d65 x 0.3112 y 0.3328 6556K (these fit better for my eyes at least) then yes, it is worth investing in calibration!
 

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Hi everyone, can I just get clarification on something. So from what I understand doing an autocal for HDR greyscale removes the TVs default tone mapping leading to clipping so people say just do a 2 point calibration. Is there anything wrong with doing a manual 10pt calibration on the HDR greyscale and juts making sure you don't change the luminance? You could even record the luminance values before you adjust greyscale and just make sure you follow them from 40% onwards no?

Thanks

mark
 

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Hi everyone, can I just get clarification on something. So from what I understand doing an autocal for HDR greyscale removes the TVs default tone mapping leading to clipping so people say just do a 2 point calibration. Is there anything wrong with doing a manual 10pt calibration on the HDR greyscale and juts making sure you don't change the luminance? You could even record the luminance values before you adjust greyscale and just make sure you follow them from 40% onwards no?

Thanks

mark
The tone mapping does not change. The foundation (base values) the tone mapping builds upon is changed by your calibration.
 

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Ok so back to the original question then, as long as you keep the luminance the same or very close to the original values it should be fine to change the RGB from 0 up to 100? On my display it tracks the standard curve until 50 then starts to diverge away from it.
 

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Hello
I am using calman Home to calibrate Panasonic HZ980.
I use intern Pattern generator from Panasonic and input selected is HDMI1
Question : how to do to transfert Calibration DATA to all HDMI Input + TV
I have tried Copy Process from Panasonic Setting without Success.
Any Help will be welcomed.
 

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Hello
I am using calman Home to calibrate Panasonic HZ980.
I use intern Pattern generator from Panasonic and input selected is HDMI1
Question : how to do to transfert Calibration DATA to all HDMI Input + TV
I have tried Copy Process from Panasonic Setting without Success.
Any Help will be welcomed.
I don't believe that's possible, at least from within CalMAN. That has always been "complete the calibration, change inputs, start calibration again". There is no capability to upload a completed calibration to a different input or picture mode, or even to re-upload to the same input. You'll have to see if the TV itself offers the capability to copy settings from one input to another, and even if it does, those are likely user menu settings only, not DDC or LUT as used by CalMAN.
 

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You'll have to see if the TV itself offers the capability to copy settings from one input to another, and even if it does, those are likely user menu settings only, not DDC or LUT as used by CalMAN.
Well that’s not quite true ;).

Panasonic has the most advanced features for coping settings to another input of all TV manufacturers. It also copies every single setting! You can select if you want to copy settings from a specific mode (e.g. Professional 2) to all other inputs or just specific ones.

You can even copy setting from one mode to another (so e.g. from Professional 2 to Professional1), but for that you need a free app called “Panasonic TV Remote 2”. This is very useful if you want to compare visually two different calibrations. There is only one drawback with the latest TVs (2019 and newer). The app doesn’t copy settings from IRE 5 and below. So those have to be done by hand then. Hopefully the update the app at some point.
 

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Hello

Thank you for your Answers

I did :
Select HDMI1 to calibrate my TV for Professionnal 1
Then I have selected "Copy Process", "under HDMI1", I have copied Professionel 1 to TV and HDMI2 (for Devices connected to AV Amplifier)
And repeated same Process for Professionnal 2
All is working fine.
 

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Hi everybody! I wanted to check my TV calibration with Calman after one year I had it done and I'm facing a weird problem: for some unknown reason my HZ2000 doesn't wanna show the isfccc secret menu needed to use the internal pattern generator. When, following Calman site KB article, I enter the sequence "info", "0", "8", "5" as PIN, I just get an "Incorrect PIN" error and the "secret menu" doesn't show.
It's weird, it used to work, I used it when the TV was new and the calibrator who calibrated it used it too.
P.S.: don't tell me to reset the TV to factory default, I know that would probabily solve the issue but I don't wanna loose the calibration I paid for and I just wanted to check if it still valid.
Thanks in advance for your help
 

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Hi everybody! I wanted to check my TV calibration with Calman after one year I had it done and I'm facing a weird problem: for some unknown reason my HZ2000 doesn't wanna show the isfccc secret menu needed to use the internal pattern generator. When, following Calman site KB article, I enter the sequence "info", "0", "8", "5" as PIN, I just get an "Incorrect PIN" error and the "secret menu" doesn't show.
It's weird, it used to work, I used it when the TV was new and the calibrator who calibrated it used it too.
P.S.: don't tell me to reset the TV to factory default, I know that would probabily solve the issue but I don't wanna loose the calibration I paid for and I just wanted to check if it still valid.
Thanks in advance for your help
It is possible that your calibrator used a different pin number or they locked the mode using ISF code.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Hi everybody! I wanted to check my TV calibration with Calman after one year I had it done and I'm facing a weird problem: for some unknown reason my HZ2000 doesn't wanna show the isfccc secret menu needed to use the internal pattern generator. When, following Calman site KB article, I enter the sequence "info", "0", "8", "5" as PIN, I just get an "Incorrect PIN" error and the "secret menu" doesn't show.
It's weird, it used to work, I used it when the TV was new and the calibrator who calibrated it used it too.
P.S.: don't tell me to reset the TV to factory default, I know that would probabily solve the issue but I don't wanna loose the calibration I paid for and I just wanted to check if it still valid.
Thanks in advance for your help
You can use an external pattern generator or a test disk instead.
 

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It is possible that your calibrator used a different pin number or they locked the mode using ISF code.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
What you mean with "a different PIN"? The sequence to enter the hidden menu should be the same ("info", "0","8", "5") and not being affected but what PIN you set to enter the "Lock Settings" regular menu.
I doubt that he could have locked it, maybe he could have done it just by mistake: he was the one who suggested me to check the calibration once every year and call him to have it redone in case it had gone wrong; now that I can't check it, he'll not have the new job for sure...
And I called him while I was having this problem and was so nice to stay almost one hour on the phone trying to guide me to solve it with no luck (he said he remembered having a similar problem on another Panasonic some time ago, but couldn't remember how he sorted it out).
I'll try ask for support from Portrait Displays, contacting Panasonic consumer customer support sounds a bit useless for such a technical issue.
 

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LOL! In the end the solution was as easy as stupid: I just had to manually revert the PIN to "i085" from the menu itself. I had changed it to something more easy to remember (1234) to be able to lock and unlock settings (main function of that menu), looks like if you change it to anything else but "i085", you won't get the "isfccc network" option shown. I thought that the PIN for locking settings was something different (and editable) to the "secret code" and that even having changed the former the latter would have still worked. I was wrong!
Hope this helps other people as dumb as me or Panasonic to make it a bit less confusing.
Thanks for your help anyways.
 

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LOL! In the end the solution was as easy as stupid: I just had to manually revert the PIN to "i085" from the menu itself. I had changed it to something more easy to remember (1234) to be able to lock and unlock settings (main function of that menu), looks like if you change it to anything else but "i085", you won't get the "isfccc network" option shown.
Excellent result, thanks for posting that and it's good for the knowledge bank. Hope the calibrator was pleased too :)
 
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I have recently calibrated a new Panasonic OLED unit, specifically a 65HZ1000.

This unit from the 2020 range was not as accurate in SDR at the grayscale level as other Panasonics that I have calibrated from the previous GZ 2019 range. I imagine that due to the logical variability between WOLED units.

This unit had a slight warm bias in the image, which was not excessive, but certainly evident for eyes accustomed to calibrated images.

I leave you the calibration graphs of the Professional 2 mode, gamma 2.4 at 100 nits



As you can see once the gray scale is adjusted the color accuracy is excellent with an average of 0.5 dE after measuring a larger number of colors than Calman measures by default.

I have also measured the saturations of 10% and the result is equally good, with errors for saturations below 1, which confirms the excellent job of color treatment that Panasonic has done with its OLED panels.

 
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In my previous calibration I made the mistake of using the EDR created for WOLED TV. Now I have started again from scratch with a BODNER profile created by me with my i1Pro2 spectrophotometer for the 65HZ1000 OLED screen and the results that Calman Home now gives me out of the box are better than before, which goes to show, in terms In general, what not advisable to approach the calibration of these TVs if you do not have a spectrophotometer that guarantees greater precision than that of the colorimeter, either in raw mode or Calman specific EDR. In my opinion, these displays are so accurate out of the box that any attempt to calibrate them without the involvement of a spectrophotometer would likely increase the error rather than reduce it.

Look at the precalibration data from before and now.







On the other hand, I have observed that, unlike the GZ series, from the HZ image menu there is the possibility of deactivating tone mapping. I wonder if this would make it possible to calibrate the HZ in HDR10 mode, which did not seem possible in the previous GZ series
 

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Hi,
I'm new here, and wonder if anyone can help.

I tried to calibrate Dolby Vision Dark on my 65JZ1000 today and I'm getting weird results. SDR calibrated perfectly and HDR too. But Dolby Vision results are giving me head scratching results. I'll post the results below.

Here is the Grayscale before calibration:
Colorfulness Light Rectangle Slope Font


Here is after calibration:
Light Rectangle Slope Font Line


This is the Pre/Post:
Colorfulness Product Slope Font Line


Somehow its worse after calibration.

Thanks
 
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