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Are you getting OK patterns for SDR reads without the HD Fury? Are you following the HD Fury directions in that post of the PGenerator thread? Which HDR InfoFrame and AVI InfoFrame are you using?
Yeh SDR went smooth. Test pattern turn out great.

As far as HDR info fram and AVI frame I just entered what is shown on the HF fury setup in the PGenerator thread. Ive seen there are more options below. Should I give those a shot.
Is there one that will work for Raspberry pi tpg / calman / Samsung Setup?

And the other thing I wnated to mention when I am not running my TPG the entire screen is dark green.
SHould it be black or is that typical?
 

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Yeh SDR went smooth. Test pattern turn out great.

As far as HDR info fram and AVI frame I just entered what is shown on the HF fury setup in the PGenerator thread. Ive seen there are more options below. Should I give those a shot.
Is there one that will work for Raspberry pi tpg / calman / Samsung Setup?

And the other thing I wnated to mention when I am not running my TPG the entire screen is dark green.
SHould it be black or is that typical?
Which HD Fury device are you using? Try using the 1000 nit P3 HDR InfoFrame:
87:01:1a:a1:02:00:c2:33:c4:86:4c:1d:b8:0b:d0:84:80:3e:13:3d:42:40:e8:03:05:00:e8:03:90:01
and the [email protected] AVI InfoFrame:
82:02:0d:23:00:c8:64:20:00:00:00:00:00:00:00:00:00

Then while you have CalMAN running in the HDR workflow and connected to the RPi, bring up the Q90T's info bar at the top of the screen, for example by using the remote to re-select the HDMI input that the HD Fury is connected to, and report everything that's on the first two lines in the upper right corner. Also go into Settings->Picture and confirm that the Picture Mode is Movie, and go down into Expert Settings and confirm that Backlight is at 50 and Local Dimming is High.

If by "not running my TPG" you mean while using CalMAN, but CalMAN is idle, not actively taking measurements, then that screen should be gray, so I'd guess that green screen is related to the green background you're seeing in the patterns.
 

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Looks Like I am off and running thank you for your time and answers. Can I share my post calibration pic to see if I did it correctly?
 

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Looks Like I am off and running thank you for your time and answers. Can I share my post calibration pic to see if I did it correctly?
Glad to hear it. It would be interesting to see a screenshot of the Pre/Post Comparison page for both SDR and HDR.
 

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Would you know the difference between HDR Movie vs Movie in calman options? same area where you can choose cal day and cal night...

Im guessing HDR movie is for dark when watching movies?
And Movie is for regular daytime non movie streaming content that is not in HDR? So would I calibrate HDR movie in dark. and Movie in a room with lights on?

But if I watch a ton of movies in a room with light what option would I go for then?
 

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Would you know the difference between HDR Movie vs HDR in calman options? same area where you can choose cal day and cal night...

Im guessing HDR movie is for dark when watching movies?
And HDR is for regular daytime non movie streaming content HDR? So would I calibrate HDR movie in dark. and HDR in a room with lights on?

But if I watch a ton of movies in a room with light what option would I go for then?
Do you actually see an entry named "HDR" in that drop-down list that contains Movie, CAL-DAY and CAL-NIGHT? Or do you mean the "HDR (Mode Reset)" option on that page? I would guess the Q90T is like the Q90R, and the only HDR picture mode you can calibrate using Autocal is Movie.
 

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Below is the pic of the options. I do have another question. My hdr calibrations keep giving higher numbers of errors. is this regular?

Here is the shot with the options said above stating the Movie or Movie HDR option

3077525
 

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Below is the pic of the options. I do have another question. My hdr calibrations keep giving higher numbers of errors. is this regular?
If you look at the text on the right in that screen, you'll see that the only valid choices for SDR are Movie, CAL-DAY and CAL-NIGHT, and the only valid choice for HDR is HDR-Movie. The CalMAN options of Movie and HDR-Movie both refer to what the Q90T calls Movie picture mode, it's just that the Q90T Movie picture mode has two sets of settings, one for SDR and one for HDR, and it automatically switches between those settings based on whether the active content is SDR or HDR.

BTW, you should verify how picture mode switching works on your Q90T. I would guess it's like the Q90R, so if you are watching SDR content using CAL-DAY or CAL-NIGHT picture mode, and then you switch to HDR content on that same source, the Q90T will not automatically switch to your calibrated HDR Movie picture mode settings, it will stay in CAL-DAY or CAL-NIGHT and use uncalibrated HDR settings in that picture mode. The only way to get automatic switching between calibrated SDR and HDR settings is to use Movie for SDR. Otherwise you have to remember to manually change picture modes back and forth.

Can you post a Pre/Post Comparison screenshot for HDR? And can you tell me, for HDR Autocal calibration, did you have an EOTF Match page where you adjusted Contrast? And did HDR Autocal have a Grayscale Multipoint page?
 

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Here is pre/post comparison. Looks better. I adjusted the lens a bit to lay on screen better. and changed the TV to 2019 Samsung I had it on 2020 Samsung. Don't know which one made the difference but it looks way better post numbers.
3077529
 

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Here is pre/post comparison. Looks better. I adjusted the lens a bit to lay on screen better. and changes the TV to 2019 Samsung I had it on 2020 Samsung. Don't know which one made the difference but it looks way better post numbers.
I suggest you stick with selecting 2020 Samsung; if that's causing some problem, then you should report it.

I don't know how well a Q90T calibrates, so I can't really tell if you should be able to get better results or not. On my Q90R, HDR results are not as good as SDR. But now that you've been through the process a few times, if you want you can start to experiment. For example, in the HDR Grayscale 2pt page, by default it's probably using 30% and 80%. It's possible you could get better overall grayscale/balance results by using some other pair of points, like 30%/70%. For that, when you're on the HDR Grayscale 2pt page, before you click the AutoCal button, you can open the Workflow and Application Settings Panel, select Workflow Basic Options, go to Grayscale Points, and change it to 2 Pt 30%/70%.

Another thing you might want to explore is customizing some of the pages. For example, I like to get a more complete picture of the grayscale, using 5% steps rather than 10%, so in the Pre-Calibration Measurements and Post-Calibration Verification pages, I go to Workflow Basic Options and change Grayscale Points to 21 Point 5% step 0-100%, and then take the measurements.
 

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Samsung TV UE65KS8090, Sony UBP-X800M2, Yamaha Receiver RX-V685, Fire Tv Cube, Fire Tv 4K
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Hi there,
how do you actually prevent the ABL from striking when calibrating HDR?
In other words, when I start calibrating, the TV has 1000nits, but if you wait too long, it goes down to 400nits.
With the Calman Home for Samsung, the smart LED functions are also switched off by default, so it doesn't even manage the 1000nits.
Have a KS8090 similar to KS8000 in the USA.

i use Calman Home for Samsung, with PGenerator and HDFury Linker.
 

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Hi there,
how do you actually prevent the ABL from striking when calibrating HDR?
In other words, when I start calibrating, the TV has 1000nits, but if you wait too long, it goes down to 400nits.
With the Calman Home for Samsung, the smart LED functions are also switched off by default, so it doesn't even manage the 1000nits.
Have a KS8090 similar to KS8000 in the USA.

i use Calman Home for Samsung, with PGenerator and HDFury Linker.
Is it taking too long because you're doing manual adjustments while an HDR pattern is displaying, or an individual measurement is taking too long, or something else? Have you tried the Full Field Pattern Insertion option, under Application Measurement Options? You may have to experiment with the frequency/duration/level settings to get the desired results. I don't own that set, but I'm surprised CalMAN is disabling Smart LED for HDR calibration, I would have expected it should be on High.
 

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@thoth can you better explain the process of the Brightness and contrast level in calman?
The steps can get very confusing.

It states press brightness but then what?
then is states press contrast but then what?

What do I do after that? what should I choose clipping? or clipping with peak level? I have xrite pro.
 

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@thoth can you better explain the process of the Brightness and contrast level in calman?
The steps can get very confusing.

It states press brightness but then what?
then is states press contrast but then what?

What do I do after that? what should I choose clipping? or clipping with peak level? I have xrite pro.
Someone else correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't think those CalMAN Brightness and Contrast buttons work with PGenerator. With a pattern generator that supports them, clicking Brightness would bring up a pattern with various near-Black levels displayed, and clicking Contrast would bring up a pattern with various near-White levels displayed. If you want to see an example, go the Source Settings in CalMAN, click on the Source drop-down and select "Source", and then click Open Pattern Window, which will bring up a window on your PC. Then click the Brightness and Contrast buttons to see example patterns. Once displayed, you would then manually change the Brightness or Contrast setting on the display, for Brightness, trying to make levels 16 and lower invisible and above 16 visible, for Contrast following the advice text that's on that Dynamic Range page. For the chart on that page, you should be able to select Clipping with Peak White when using PGenerator.

But, my opinion is to just skip the adjustments on this page. In my experience with the Q90R, there should be no need to change Brightness from its default of 0. You may measure clipping somewhere above 100% (on my Q90R with default Contrast it happens at ~105%), but I wouldn't change SDR Contrast to try to fix it. To me, content that's above 100% is so rare that it's not worth sacrificing 0-100% dynamic range to try to make 100-109% linear. Just my opinion.
 

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Numbers improved with the recommendations you have provided! 21 Point 5% step 0-100%
and the 2pt 30%70%. and Skipping the whole contrast / brightness settings.

I have one more question. It has to do with HDR.
I do a lot of HDR movie watching with lights on. Would I calibrate HDR movie with lights on the way my environment settings would be while we watch a movies. Or should I do my HDR calibration with every light off and do it at night time?
 

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Numbers improved with the recommendations you have provided! 21 Point 5% step 0-100%
and the 2pt 30%70%. and Skipping the whole contrast / brightness settings.

I have one more question. It has to do with HDR.
I do a lot of HDR movie watching with lights on. Would I calibrate HDR movie with lights on the way my environment settings would be while we watch a movies. Or should I do my HDR calibration with every light off and do it at night time?
Good to hear, but just to understand, did your SDR numbers get better, or your HDR numbers, or both? I was really only suggesting 2pt 30%/70% for HDR, not for SDR, but if you get better results for SDR, go for it. For SDR, the default 2pt is probably 30%/109%; you might want to try 30%/100% for that.

Does your Autocal workflow for HDR have a page where you measure the EOTF curve and choose a Contrast setting? If so, I wouldn't skip that step.

The HDR (ST.2084) EOTF curve is absolute, not relative like SDR, and is basically designed for dark room viewing. If you want advice for making HDR more watchable in a bright room, perhaps someone else can offer advice.

For accurate calibration, for both SDR and HDR, you should disable all of the Q90T's Eco Solution settings (except Auto Power Off) and keep them off permanently. As long as you place the colorimeter in direct contact flat against the screen, it shouldn't matter if you calibrate during day or night, lights on or off.
 

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Yes I did it for sdr also. But I am giving it shot now with 2pt30%/100%

yes my auto cal brings up the eotf. How does the work? It seems that my curve flat lines at the top of curve?
 
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