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Any recommended settings for low light handling for the i1Display Pro? It seems that I cannot get 5% in line with the rest of the greyscale
 

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If you are using AIO, you should not also be using the low light handler. They conflict with each other.
In addition, if you are seeing wide variation from reading to reading at 5%, try changing meter sync type. That can drastically affect how stable the low-light readings are as well.
 

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Hi,
First time calibrating and I have a Sony X900F. I'm using Calman for Sony, installed on my PC (GTX 1650 gpu) which is connected to my TV through an Anthem MRX720 receiver. My meter is X-rite Display Pro OEM.

GPU config: RGB Full, 8bit. Sony X900F forced to limited color. Used calman TPG for 2 point calibration but I also have madVR TPG but seem to give same pre-calibration result.

I didn't go straight to autocal because I want to understand the process first so I did a manual 2-point calibration. My result seems good at first glance but I never found a clear answer when googling about what meter mode I should use for this TV.

So I first tried Raw XYZ and I wasn't sure since it was more reddish tint than the default calibration (cinema pro or custom). I then tried LCD Blue Green and the picture as a greener tint compared to the default. When I do the comparison with the pre/post calibration of both meter (see pictures below), we clearly see that on the pre-RGB balance, the color that deviate the most is red with Raw XYZ, while it is the green color with LCD blue green. So which one is right? Maybe neither? ;-)

I tried to match most of the recommdation from portrait display workflow for Sony but since it is specificaly for an OLED, I am not sure what is also good for my LCD. For exemple, power gamma 2.2... should I use that also? Contrast à 100 during calibration, is that valid for LCDs? etc

Does anyone have suggesting or experience for calibrating correctly a x900F or technicaly equivalent tv, with the same equipement?

Thanks

Alex

Raw XYZ
3117888


LCD Blue Green
3117889
 

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Hi,
First time calibrating and I have a Sony X900F. I'm using Calman for Sony, installed on my PC (GTX 1650 gpu) which is connected to my TV through an Anthem MRX720 receiver. My meter is X-rite Display Pro OEM.

GPU config: RGB Full, 8bit. Sony X900F forced to limited color. Used calman TPG for 2 point calibration but I also have madVR TPG but seem to give same pre-calibration result.

I didn't go straight to autocal because I want to understand the process first so I did a manual 2-point calibration. My result seems good at first glance but I never found a clear answer when googling about what meter mode I should use for this TV.

So I first tried Raw XYZ and I wasn't sure since it was more reddish tint than the default calibration (cinema pro or custom). I then tried LCD Blue Green and the picture as a greener tint compared to the default. When I do the comparison with the pre/post calibration of both meter (see pictures below), we clearly see that on the pre-RGB balance, the color that deviate the most is red with Raw XYZ, while it is the green color with LCD blue green. So which one is right? Maybe neither? ;-)

I tried to match most of the recommdation from portrait display workflow for Sony but since it is specificaly for an OLED, I am not sure what is also good for my LCD. For exemple, power gamma 2.2... should I use that also? Contrast à 100 during calibration, is that valid for LCDs? etc

Does anyone have suggesting or experience for calibrating correctly a x900F or technicaly equivalent tv, with the same equipement?

Thanks

Alex

Raw XYZ
View attachment 3117888

LCD Blue Green
View attachment 3117889
Your results look fine using Raw xyz. The Sony wants to be calibrated at Gamma 2.2 with Contrast set to 100. Calman takes care of these adjustments in the workflow. All you need to do is set the Brightness you want to target. After calibration you can manually set gamma 2.2 or leave it at 2.4. The set makes the adjustments. As far at the EDR for your i1D3, there are so many new panels that it's hard to keep up with a current EDR so you are probably fine using Raw and if you want more accuracy buy an i1Pro2, you can get them used, and profile your meter.
 
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Your results look fine using Raw xyz. The Sony wants to be calibrated at Gamma 2.2 with Contrast set to 100. Calman takes care of these adjustments in the workflow. All you need to do is set the Brightness you want to target. After calibration you can manually set gamma 2.2 or leave it at 2.4. The set makes the adjustments. As far at the EDR for your i1D3, there are so many new panels that it's hard to keep up with a current EDR so you are probably fine using Raw and if you want more accuracy buy an i1Pro2, you can get them used, and profile your meter.
Thank you, much appreciated. I will try autocal with Raw XYZ then.
 

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I also just noticed that in autocal, I only have the choice for "custom", so if I understand correctly, I won't be able to autocal any other picture mode. So I could use the manual calibration route but I was wondering if I could use the value from the custom autocal and copy them on cinema pro and home, or they are too different from the custom mode?

Edit: Oh I see now, it's stored in the Expert 1 or Expert 2 color temperature.
 
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I also just noticed that in autocal, I only have the choice for "custom", so if I understand correctly, I won't be able to autocal any other picture mode. So I could use the manual calibration route but I was wondering if I could use the value from the custom autocal and copy them on cinema pro and home, or they are too different from the custom mode?

Edit: Oh I see now, it's stored in the Expert 1 or Expert 2 color temperature.
Yes you have to use the Custom for Pro 1 and 2 (and assign Expert 1 or 2 to each) to do two calibrations. After you calibrate two modes, you can copy all the 21pt and CMS settings into the other picture modes if you want..including Dolby Vision. You just need to double check each source if you use different devices (i.e. internal vs external apps).
 
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I also just noticed that in autocal, I only have the choice for "custom", so if I understand correctly, I won't be able to autocal any other picture mode. So I could use the manual calibration route but I was wondering if I could use the value from the custom autocal and copy them on cinema pro and home, or they are too different from the custom mode?

Edit: Oh I see now, it's stored in the Expert 1 or Expert 2 color temperature.
Yes any picture modes you switch to one of those color temperatures will be calibrated. Sony wanted to make it very simple for people. You can even change the Netflix calibrated mode to that color temperature and then it will be even more accurate.
 

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Yes any picture modes you switch to one of those color temperatures will be calibrated. Sony wanted to make it very simple for people. You can even change the Netflix calibrated mode to that color temperature and then it will be even more accurate.
Thank you.

I understood that for manual calibration, I need to set my GPU to RGB Full 8bit and the Sony TV to Limited instead of Auto. But in when doing autocal, do I need to set it up like that also? (I noticed that my first autocal was at YCrCb422 10 bits and Sony TV at Auto.... so not sure that the result is good, even though it doesn't look bad)
 

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Thank you.

I understood that for manual calibration, I need to set my GPU to RGB Full 8bit and the Sony TV to Limited instead of Auto. But in when doing autocal, do I need to set it up like that also? (I noticed that my first autocal was at YCrCb422 10 bits and Sony TV at Auto.... so not sure that the result is good, even though it doesn't look bad)
It depends on what you are using for a pattern generator.
 

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It depends on what you are using for a pattern generator.
I'm using Calman internal source or I can use madVR TPG but it seemed to work well with the one from calman.

Constant APL 10, to be more precise.
 

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I'm using Calman internal source or I can use madVR TPG but it seemed to work well with the one from calman.

Constant APL 10, to be more precise.
If you were using the Calman internal source, the output should be full range RGB from your computer. And in Calman you need to disable the function that says “expand built in patterns to PC levels”

Then you need to force the TV into limited range.
 

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If you were using the Calman internal source, the output should be full range RGB from your computer. And in Calman you need to disable the function that says “expand built in patterns to PC levels”

Then you need to force the TV into limited range.
Maybe you can help with my setup for HDR?

On my PC side, I enabled HDR in Windows 10 display setting and the TV correctly switched to HDR mode. I was in RGB full range 8 bit and I think the “expand built in patterns to PC levels” was already uncheck at that time. I enabled the HDR checkbox in the source panel in Claman. I only went to the pre-calibration screen to see how my HDR looked like and like I said, RGB balance was extreme up and down and the peak luminance was 300 nits. I tried the madVR TPG and the Calman internal and result were the same.

What am I missing?
 

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Edit: it seems fine... I compared expert 1 (Calibrated) with Expert 2 (at default values) and the differences his subtle, which is a good sign I think. The picture is more warm and pleasant with lest green/blue tint.

Something doesn't seem right.
RGB Full range autocalibration result.
3118053


Then I switch my PC back to 60Hz YCbCr 422 and do a pre-cal reading:
3118055


I would have though that my calibration would be good for YCbCr output, no? I normally have my PC set like this because it's an HTPC always connected to my TV and I want it to match the output of my other devices. (Oppo, PS5, AppleTV, etc)
 

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Edit: it seems fine... I compared expert 1 (Calibrated) with Expert 2 (at default values) and the differences his subtle, which is a good sign I think. The picture is more warm and pleasant with lest green/blue tint.

Something doesn't seem right.
RGB Full range autocalibration result.
View attachment 3118053

Then I switch my PC back to 60Hz YCbCr 422 and do a pre-cal reading:
View attachment 3118055

I would have though that my calibration would be good for YCbCr output, no? I normally have my PC set like this because it's an HTPC always connected to my TV and I want it to match the output of my other devices. (Oppo, PS5, AppleTV, etc)
After you switch it back you can’t use the internal pattern window without re-checking the expand to PC levels check box.
 

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Edit: it seems fine... I compared expert 1 (Calibrated) with Expert 2 (at default values) and the differences his subtle, which is a good sign I think. The picture is more warm and pleasant with lest green/blue tint.

Something doesn't seem right.
RGB Full range autocalibration result.
View attachment 3118053

Then I switch my PC back to 60Hz YCbCr 422 and do a pre-cal reading:
View attachment 3118055

I would have though that my calibration would be good for YCbCr output, no? I normally have my PC set like this because it's an HTPC always connected to my TV and I want it to match the output of my other devices. (Oppo, PS5, AppleTV, etc)
So you have to remember, most of these Sonys are pushing Blue from the factory which is why when you calibrate this goes away.
 

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Hey completely new here.
Wanted to know what was the best economic way to professionally calibrate my A90j. This is my first time wanting to calibrate tv and id think having this tv calibrated to the best image quality would be a good idea.

Is Calman Home for Sony Software + X-Rite i1Display Pro + Rasberry Pi the most economic and accurate way?
Or are there software pattern generators that can do the job just as well as a Pi? Also any guides for calibrating the A90j specifically?
 

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Hey completely new here.
Wanted to know what was the best economic way to professionally calibrate my A90j. This is my first time wanting to calibrate tv and id think having this tv calibrated to the best image quality would be a good idea.

Is Calman Home for Sony Software + X-Rite i1Display Pro + Rasberry Pi the most economic and accurate way?
Or are there software pattern generators that can do the job just as well as a Pi? Also any guides for calibrating the A90j specifically?
That's the combo I have. The same instructions would be applicable to A90J:




 

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