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Discussion Starter · #1 ·




Help me out please. I am working on my basement and going to make a HT room. Would the rear speakers (3) be too far away? Should I mount them at hear level or higher?


Please please please....if ANYONE has ANY input or suggestions PLEASE feel free to add.


I am going to run a 2" PVC in-wall behind T.V. for HMDI, cable, etc... Should I run conduit for speaker wires, or just run them like running romex?


Does anyone know of where I could get surge protection which I can mount on or by electrical panel? i.e. I am putting a recessed recep behind my HDTV which is going to be mounted on wall, and a/v stand below the T.V. I would like to sure protect my HDTV and A/V equipment.


Please help with anything if possible......i am having a case of 'no ideas'
 

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I'm not sure what you are asking with your rear speakers as you have no seating in the room so I have no clue how far away they are from listening position but I can't imagine 8-10 ft will be too far as you can compensate the distance in your receiver.


You can run conduit for your speaker wire if you think you will need another or different wires ran to the area. If not dont worry about it. I would recommend running conduit or PVC to the front, rear, projector area, and area you might want to put your equipment in the future. That way you are set for the future.


The type of surge protector you might be talking about is one made by Furman that you can mount behind your flatscreen but it only has two outlets.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Sorry...lol I didnt think about seating....I will be sitting in the center of the room...forgetfulness.


Anyone have any pointers or suggestion to help with this build or lay-out?
 

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 http://www.dolby.com/consumer/setup/...ide/index.html

http://www.thx.com/consumer/home-ent...peaker-set-up/


Take a look at the Dolby & THX setup pages. For 5.1 & 6.1, the left & right surrounds are usually closer to the listening position (next to or slightly behind). When you go to 7.1 with at least 4 surrounds, you still have the two sides beside or slightly behind and the two rears further back. Based on your door locations, it looks like you have room to put a pair of side surrounds up. Any reason you aren't going 7.1?


Your room dimensions are very similar to mine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks Spaceman....I want to go to 7.1 soon...wanting to upgrade from Yamaha HTR-5940 to Pioneer VSX-1019AH.


Any suggestions of ideas spacemen? tips, tricks, etc...
 

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Get a Projector, you will never regret the decision. You are basically on the path of building a TV room with surround sound, Think about having a theater with the immersive image and sound experience. In the five years since hanging my projector I have had no desire to go to a commercial theater.


If you can't afford it today at least do the prewiring.


Just for reference, you can buy a really good projector today for $1999 you can also build a DIY screen for under $500. It can also be an Acoustically transparent screen and you can put your speakers behind the screen improving the looks and sound of the space.


Answering one of your questions, conduit for speaker wires is not necessary unless you think the possibility of upgrading your wiring exists. The major compelling reason is you ever think you might want to bi-amp your speakers or go with a 9.1 sound system which are starting to be seen in the higher end receivers. Having conduits would make that job a little easier.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC /forum/post/18202344


Get a Projector, you will never regret the decision. You are basically on the path of building a TV room with surround sound, Think about having a theater with the immersive image and sound experience. In the five years since hanging my projector I have had no desire to go to a commercial theater.


If you can't afford it today at least do the prewiring.


Just for reference, you can buy a really good projector today for $1999 you can also build a DIY screen for under $500. It can also be an Acoustically transparent screen and you can put your speakers behind the screen improving the looks and sound of the space.


Answering one of your questions, conduit for speaker wires is not necessary unless you think the possibility of upgrading your wiring exists. The major compelling reason is you ever think you might want to bi-amp your speakers or go with a 9.1 sound system which are starting to be seen in the higher end receivers. Having conduits would make that job a little easier.

Or 11.1 like I am currently doing



I also very rarely go to the theater as its way better at my place and DC mentioned a 500 DIY screen you can get that done for way less. You could even just paint the wall for less than 100 and you could use blackout cloth and a simple frame for less than 200.


Basically no one here will tell you to not do a projector unless you have some serious room limitations.
 

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I disagree with the comment about not running conduit to the speaker locations. God forbid you hit a wire when installing the drywall, or there is a break in the cable. Better safe than sorry.


Here is what I did.

 

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You can install speaker wire so that it is in no danger of being "hit" during the drywall installation process. Granted if you/your contrator is hiring the drywall crew at 7-11 you should put it in beefy conduit.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cathan /forum/post/18202993


I disagree with the comment about not running conduit to the speaker locations. God forbid you hit a wire when installing the drywall, or there is a break in the cable. Better safe than sorry.


Here is what I did.


Saying someone should do something because someone else is careless is a blanket statement that assumes someone does not know what they are doing. That being said conduit does not cost much but it is much easier to seal a speaker wire hole than a whole box. The reason I did not use conduit for speakers is because of sound leaking out. Everytime you cut a hole it should be as small as possible and as well sealed as you can.


Looking at your picture Cathan is the reason I did not use boxes. Even though your box has the putty pads they only cover about an inch of the pipe whereas the sound will travel that pipe for some distance and permeate it infecting your wall.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by adammb /forum/post/18205162


That being said conduit does not cost much but it is much easier to seal a speaker wire hole than a whole box.

Just because you have conduit connected to a box behind the drywall doesn't necessarily mean you have to cut out a hole the entire box will fit through. You could just poke a hole in the drywall small enough for the wire to pass through. This would seem to be the best of both worlds to me, but I'm certainly no expert.


Just a thought.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks everyone. i think that I will just run 2'' PVC behind my t.v. for hmdi, etc.... I might run PVC to different places for my sub just in case it doesnt sound good in one spot....it would be easier to pull in and out the RG6....plus I want to hide all the wire the best as possible
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by eurovw89 /forum/post/18205663


Thanks everyone. i think that I will just run 2'' PVC behind my t.v. for hmdi, etc.... I might run PVC to different places for my sub just in case it doesnt sound good in one spot....it would be easier to pull in and out the RG6....plus I want to hide all the wire the best as possible

When you run the wire for the extra sub locations don't forget to put power at each location also. In case you run a sub with on board power. If you power your subs thru an amp in your equipment rack you won't need the power at the sub location. While your at it, if there's a remote chance you might want to install a projector later on I would run electric pvc to the purposed projector location before drywall goes up. It'll be much easier installing the HDMI cable to the projector this way.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by adammb /forum/post/18205162



Looking at your picture Cathan is the reason I did not use boxes. Even though your box has the putty pads they only cover about an inch of the pipe whereas the sound will travel that pipe for some distance and permeate it infecting your wall.

Ahhh. The hole in the DD/GG is only big enough to pass through the wire. The boxes are adjustable so they sit behind the drywall. Should I ever have to replace a wire, the hole would be expanded just enough to feed through the new wire.


Also, you need to realize that small opens do not actually bleed through a lot of sound. Dennis and others have covered the details a few times if you want to get more into it. The putty was truly me going overkill.
 
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