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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The kramer vp211 doesnt work with my tv so i was hoping some one could recomend a mechanical vga switch at a good price that works with HDTV Signals.
 

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Just curious why it won't work. I am looking at the VP41 and VP201. These are definitely not cheap.



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One of the reasons to go with a switch in the Kramer range is because one won't see ghosting. I have seen this with the lower priced gear. I sent several questions to Kramer about these switches. Here is the e-conversation:


I have three technical questions about your products. I am looking at the VP-41 and VP-201. My intention is to use these in a Home Theater configuration involving an HTPC (DVD and gaming), and two High Definition sources (1080i). These three sources (plus a spare for expansion) will be shared to a projector using the VP-41. The HTPC will be shared between the VP-41 and a computer monitor using the VP-201 in reverse.


1) The two HD devices output a component signal via an HD15 VGA cable. Will component video work without degradation through both of these switches?


2) I notice that the VP-201 has a bandwidth limit of 350MHz whereas the VP-41 exceeds 750MHz. What is the rationale for this? That is, it seems like they should both strive for the higher figure.


3) Is the internal wiring 75 ohm?


Thank you!


And their response:


1. No degradation, provided the component connectors uses the same active pinout of the VGA connector. We switch over only the active pins (1,2,3 for RGB and 13,14 for the syncs). Ground is common.

2. The technology and structure of the VP-201 is different than the VP-41, therefore there are differences in specs. In any case, our specs are usually better than published.

3. All our machines use accurate internal RF strip line design for best 75 ohms matching (the lines on the boards behave as close as possible to coax cables).


I hope I answered your questions.


Best regards


JK/Kramer





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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hey man lets stick to my question in this topic! For some reason the kramer i guess won't work with my tv. I was told this by another member. I guess it has problems with certain tv's. IS there another reasonably priced vga switcher that might work with my tv? Or should i just go mechanical?
 

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Define "reasonable". My solid-state Extron SW4 VGAxi 4-to-1 DB15 VGA switcher cost $479 but it was the only--and I mean ONLY--switchbox that did not induce ghosties, distortions and other uglies into the HDTV signal path between my four picture sources (DTC-100, DISH 6000, accessDTV, and HTPC) and my NEC XGA-resolution projector.


I spent several thousand dollars on my video hardware--exclusive of the Extron box. To me, spending an additional $479 was perfectly reasonable insofar as maintaining a crystal-clear signal from all picture sources to the projector.


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[This message has been edited by Scott Gammans (edited 10-06-2001).]
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I do not want to spend more then 100 or so. I have a very limited budget. I only have 2 sources. I would prefer an automatic switcher but the kramer vp211 desont seem to work. Anyone suggest somethign?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
First! I do not want to do any soldering. Sorry but not my area of expertise and don't want to void the warentee.


Second yes i asked a similar question but this is different. I asked about an auto switcher last time. The kramer one was the one recomended. it does not work for me so now i am asking about manual switchers. See the difference? if you dont like the question fee free not to post.
 

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Ya know... For years I have watched these discussions and have wondered WTF you guys are talking about with these switches that cost hundreds of dollars. Until now, I have deferred and kept my mouth shut and not said a word but I'm about an expert as much as 90% of the people here and I've been doing this a long time and it's time to speak my peace. I use a $15 A-B-C-D SVGA mechanical switch from Staples and it works like a champ for me (Mits 65903 with a DTC-100, HTPC and a Dish 6000). I use one of the $20 Terk SVGA button switches to switch the audio. So I have to turn a dial AND push a button. Big deal! LOL It cost me <$40 and I've been using it for 2 years and the picture's PERFECT as is the audio.


I don't think my standards are sub-par to anyone else here and while I respect your desires to have the "state of the art" is switching technology and not have to even get up off the couch, my $40 setup works PERFECTLY and I challenge ANYBODY to SHOW me a difference.


Off my soapbox. There. I finally said it. I feel SO much better now.


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LearningMan, I was of the same mind until I got my digital projector and a 105" screen. All of the mechanical switches that I tested (and believe me, I tried everything that Staples and Radio Shack had to offer) caused visible ghosts around objects on the screen, as well as what I can only describe as "sparkles"... as if the image was crawling with millions of nearly (but not completely) transparent bugs.


For a 65" rear projection television, a mechanical switchbox might be sufficient. For a screen with several times the surface area onto which a razor-sharp digital image is being projected, it's (for me at least) not.


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[This message has been edited by Scott Gammans (edited 10-07-2001).]
 

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Scott:


May be. I have the match-mate Sony switch with my projector. The model number eludes me but it's the one with all the cards (RGBHV) in it so I must confess that I have never actually tried a mechanical on my Sony 1270.


The original question (^^) was regarding a "TV" though. http://www.avsforum.com/ubb/smile.gif


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[This message has been edited by LearningMan (edited 10-07-2001).]
 

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Learning man, I started with the mechanical switch but it had ghosting problems due to the lack of shielding (per others who had the same problem and more technical knowledge that I do and had done detailed troubleshooting of the problem). The expensive switches are just that when you buy new, but they can be found on Ebay for a lot less money. My current extron SWar4 solution is in the ballpark with your manual switchbox excluding the Audio Authority convertor required to make the pc signal compatible with my other sources which are component.




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Quote:
Originally posted by Savageone79:

Hey man lets stick to my question in this topic!
Sorry to have offered you any information.

Good luck.



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I am successfully using a mechanical VGA switchbox after going through several inexpensive boxes. The model I am using is a standard switch box that is gutted and re wired with low loss coax. It really is gutted and re wired, because the first thing I did when I received it was take it apart to verify. It is working fine for me, and my VGA cable is a 50Ft cable. If any environment would be susceptible to ghosting, a mechanical switchbox with a 50ft VGA cable would be it. I also purchased it because the company has a 30 day money back guarantee. Cost is $125 plus shipping.


Go to:
http://si87.com/Products/Cabling/Sha...ngdevices.html and look for model SBVGA-2 Switchbox. This is 2 VGA monitors for 1 PC VGA connection.


I am using a 61" RPTV, so if you plan to use with a projector your results may not match mine.


Mike.


[This message has been edited by mwiener (edited 10-07-2001).]
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Hey learning man! I went to staples and they had no vga switches. I also went to best buy and circuit city with no luck. Any suggestion as to where i could get it? This is so frustrating! I jsut spent a lot of money on my stuff and do not want to spend another $300-$400 just to switch between 2 recievers!
 

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Sorry. My bust. I actually got mine from a small computer store near me. I just assumed Staples probably carried them. Ooops. Sorry.


Try your local computer stores this morning. http://www.avsforum.com/ubb/smile.gif


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