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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm a newcomer to this forum. I had a Novabeam CRT projector for 20 years and just bought the SONY 11HT projector. (I don't think that digital projectors have quite reached stable plateau and although I think that the SHARP 9000 is better it costs more and I consider the SONY a "temporary" solution). At any rate, I am still pondering which screen (100") I should buy. I had Stewart send me samples of their Studiotek 130 and Grayhawk. I requested samples from DA-LITE twice but they never sent me any. There is a lot of talk about the Grayhawk lately and I also saw it with a SHARP 9000 projector, but although it has great blacks it also seems to gray out brighter colors. I have not done much in the way of adjustments on my SONY yet and maybe that is the problem. My question is whether it is possible to adjust a projector so that one can get a real white (along with the nice black) on the Grayhawk. If I can't, then I am tempted to get the Studiotek 130 because it seems to have really nice bright colors which I like (although my sample piece is very small). By the way, my room has a lot of ambient light (except at night) and most of what I will watch will be the news and soccer, but I also want to get the best possible picture for DVDs and HDTV (when I can get it). Thanks for any replies.

One final comment: while I'm waiting to get a real screen I bought a 4'x8' white foam board for $22 and it actually works really well - better than my wall. I wonder how many of you have tried that?
 

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You have to try the screen size as a whole replacement, as the grey becomes a 'percieved' white, when the full screen is employed. This is unaviodable. The grey is there to 'rescale' the contrast range and percieved black level. So, it works, but only as a whole screen replacement. Then the trick works.


If you 'see' a real, true white beside it, you will 'percieve' the correctness of the white. If you supplant the entire' perceptive' situation with the grey, then you see it as the 'white' instead. Get it? It works quite nicely for Digital projectors, when attepmting to get them to give you a real, true black level, that does not seem grey-like (instead of percieved black) on darker scenes, in real room situations.
 

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I had gotten a large Grayhawk sample from Stewart film and when I had put up the screen last week, the perceived whites were white as far as I can tell. Blacks were so much better. I'm really glad I did not go with a white, cheaper screen. The screen makes such a huge difference and the Grayhawk was the right choice for my CInema 13HD PLV60 clone.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for your replies kbk and ninoe99.


I understand that perceived white is a relative thing. Nevertheless, having seen a Grayhawk in action the overall image was darker (for me anyway). Although it is a little bit of a no-win situation, I decided to order a Grayhawk screen today. Hopefully I will not miss the vibrant bright colors too much and the nice blacks will make up for it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
rmlowz,


The particular brand of foam board I bought is STURDY BOARD.

I bought it at a local art store (Aaron's art supplies). I don't know

exactly what it is made of. You can only get the 4'x8' piece in white. There is a smaller (2'x3', I think) gray board that almost worked like the grayhawk but it was too glossy and had highlights.
 

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For someone who has total light control in a dedicated DLP room - is the GreyHawk necessary? Or is it designed for perceived blackness in ambient light situations?


If one has a StewartTek 130 already would it make sense to do a screen swap in such a case?
 

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krag,


Yes you will still benefit from the Greyhawk, unless your walls are painted matte black. There will be a decrease in your absolute black level and your ANSI contrast should also increase.


A screen swap is probably to most economical choice.


Regards,


Kam Fung
 
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