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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Can anybody help me with settings for the cc40r across color temperatures? Dave Boswell had percentage changes from the original settings to the cc40r for low color temperature. Can you just apply those same percent changes to the medium and high temps also? My guess is no.


Does anyone have the latest or greatest % changes across the three color temps for the cc40r? I've resisted, but after using the cc40r for a couple weeks now, it looks like there's no going back.


Please post them here or pm me if ya gottem. Thanks!
 

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Factory Low:

Gain: R145 G78 B75

Bias: R124 G127 B117


With CC40R and Smart III tweaked with color temperature correct:

Gain: R171 G203 B165

Bias: R122 G123 B114


You can do the math on % adjustment :) I still have to complete the contrast and the Gamma tracking is still looking a bit funny.


HTCrazy, I don't think you can make the same % adj to Medium and High. The whole idea behind Smart III (as I take it) is to calibrate to 6500K which is really only one single setting - not 3 settings (i.e. Low, medium, High).


In other words, calc the new settings based on your Low settings and set the Medium settings to those figures (don't ever change Low). Use the Medium settings after that.


I don't think publishing this is against the Smart III license agreement (Steve, please let us know if it is). Every projector is different and you really need Smart III yourself to get the optimum settings for your own projector.
 

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Welcome to the CC40R club! I know how you feel; once you get used to the improvements theres no going back.

Just to confuse things a little, I prefer the medium colour temp so that was the basis of my calibration.


These are my stock settings:

Low (RGB) 145,69,44

Med (RGB) 212,145,145


After calibration:

(RGB) 170,210,152.


My stock low temp settings are fairly close to Xanders, as too are my final settings. I can't be stuffed doing the math either ;) but I think the percentages will be pretty close.


If you wanted to go the calibration route with some science behind it then obviously SMART III is the best option, but for a cheapy (and probably not quite as good) alternative is to just buy a commercial light meter and some RGB filters and do it yourself. Such meters are only AUD$65 here and work fine. You won't get the accuracy of the proper SMART approved meter but it still does the job much better than trying to extrapolate someone elses settings to your own pj.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Xander - I wouldn't worry about violating licensing agreements. As Mark Hunter said, there's only one state of calibrated no matter what software or other methods you use to get there. Noone can patent the settings of a calibrated display.


Can you also give me the medium and high settings? I currently only have the low from a prior posting of Dave Boswell's. And I'm not sure how to calc the numbers if I can't apply the same percentages.


Builty - you only give 3 rgb numbers. Are those for gain or bias? And do you have them for both medium and high? Thanks!


I realize I'll have better results using smart myself and will get it eventually. But for now, the settings that I've tried from Dave and others have been a night and day improvement that will more than keep me going until I have the time and bucks to go with Smart.
 

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Well both of you guys are getting similar % deltas from stock to CC40 calibrated. However, I believe they are significantly different from Dave's percentage changes.


Xander vs. Dave's changes from stock to cc40 calibrated in %.


Gain

R - +15.5% vs. -11.75%

G - +160.25% vs. +43.5%

B - +120% vs. +139.75%


Bias

R - -1.61% vs. +2.26%

G - -3.15% vs. -.75%

B - -2.56% vs. -11%



Now this could mean a number of things, the most galringly obvious being percentage changes are NOT going to be an accurate way to calibrate, assuming of course 1. the PJ's were accuratly calibrated and 2. the above % changes are correct. We already knew fixed value changes won't work, but now it looks like percentage changes could be in question as well. Could be bad news for those who don't want to swing for a SMART.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I input Dave B's "no filter" rgb's verbatum without doing the percentage calc, and the improvement was night and day over the factory stuff. Not as good as calibrating myself, but definitely the next best thing.


I guess I might be better off getting Dave's exact rgb's for medium and high with cc40r filter. Does anyone have em? I've done the usual searches and could only find his settings for low.


Xander or Builty - in the mean time I'll try your settings if you could give also the med and high temp settings. Thanks!
 

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Agreed... I've been filtering through the threads to gather a summary of stock to CC40R percentages and they're all across the board. Nothing's consistent. It doesn't help that you have to dig through monster threads instead of easy to read summary of RGB values.


I don't have to have a perfect 6500 across all IRE's. As long as I get it dialed in to where the color balance looks good to my eye, I'm satisfied for now.


So for those like me who don't want to fork the $$ for Smart at this present time, it'd help to get a range of what peoples RGB gain/bias values are for the CC40R and to work within those ranges to calibrate by eye.


Anybody out there that has properly CC40R calibrated their hs10 with measuring devices, please post your RGB's.
 

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I'll add my numbers to the list when I get my glass cc40r filter. I did the same thing as I believe Dave did--I lost my settings for medium and high. I'm not sure why you would need them as there should be only one 'right' answer if you are trying to get a 'calibrated' pj.


I am going to redo both of my settings--one w/o filter for daytime/tv viewing and one w/cc40r filter for 'critical' nighttime viewing--when I get my new cc40r. I am at about 1000 hours now and am curious how much the settings might have changed.
 

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The % changes posted only return the colur temp back to where it was before the filter was added so it won't get you anywhere closer to D65, only back to the colour temp before you added the filter.


I'd post my latest settings except I'm 1000 miles from my HS10 right now. I'll see about getting to it this weekend.


Dave
 

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Quote:
Originally posted by HTCrazy
I wouldn't worry about violating licensing agreements. As Mark Hunter said, there's only one state of calibrated no matter what software or other methods you use to get there. Noone can patent the settings of a calibrated display.
Whether or not the work product or results from a tool can be shared is probably a whole different discussion. However, the SMART license doesn't prohibit this, so even though Steve Smallcombe and I would obviously prefer that you purchased your own copy of SMART, we don't mind this information sharing.

Of course, the thing to keep in mind is that without a tool (be it SMART or anything else) you'll never be able to know if your projector is calibrated correctly. You can guess using other people numbers, but as we've all seen the variances from projector to projector. The goal of any calibration system is to give you a way to verify that what you are seeing is accurate. As stated above, there's only one state of calibrated!


Also, remember that whatever your settings are today, as the bulb ages, those settings will need to be changed as the bulb spectrum, brightness, etc. changes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks Dave I'm looking forward to it. So if I'm happy with the no filter settings you gave, just apply the % changes to them for the filter? Could you please supply your exact RGB values for low, medium and high temps along with the % change for each one?
 

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I've ordered a glass CC30R filter from Steve and will post my settings/results with that one.


Using ColorFacts, here are the settings I wound up with calibrating with no filter. Note that I started with the High setting as it doesn't really matter what setting you choose to start with, after calibrating to D65K you will get the same final numbers - there's only one accurate setting. Without any filter I got a very good grayscale from 30ire to 100ire and a CR of 533:1.


Did an Avia calibration after warm up. Settings:


Mode - Cinema

No filter

Contrast - 82 (was at 85 - more on that later)

Brightness - 48

Color - 52

Hue - 50

Sharpness - Min

Black Level Adj - Off

Color Temp - High (so I would remember High = no filter = highest light output)

DDE - Film

Cinema Black - On


Here are the Factory original / Custom RGB settings I wound up with:


R Gain 169 / 159

G Gain 124 / 97

B Gain 149 / 88


R Bias 124 / 123

G Bias 127 / 137

B Bias 133 / 129



Cheers,

dagger
 

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>>Xander or Builty - in the mean time I'll try your settings if you could give also the med and high temp settings.
 

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HT, those numbers are my gain settings. I didn't bother changing the bias because my light meter is not sensitive enough to give readings below about 10-20 IRE, and from all accounts the difference the bias adjustments make is small.

As Xander said, we only have one set of final calibrated figures. I only ever watch it with my calibrated settings. I could dig up the factory high settings but I can't imagine it would be of any use to you.


Xander, I'm curious about using a D65 light source as a reference myself. My understanding is that with SMART III the meter is pre-calibrated and you are suppplied with values that allow you to measure the colour temperature fairly accurately, as they tell you at D65 the RGB intensities are whatever, so that if the pj gives the same ratios then you know the temp is right.

An external reference is probably more applicable to someone like me with my DIY meter; it would allow me to check the colour temp of mine.
 

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I have seen quite a few HS10 spreadsheets now were the "reference" spectra and the "default" values gave very very similar color balance.


Steve
 

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With my HTPC calibrated setting the colors appear to be spot on and stunning (not so with the DVD player - hence my point about having to seperately calibrate for that). I can't say the same for shadow detail and blacks, but I have to keep working at that.


I watched Strictly Ballroom yesterday (great movie btw) - stunning picture quality (very film like).
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Thanks guys! Since I'm not using smart or colorfacts, how do I extrapolate the medium and high settings from the low? I've been using Dave's low settings while I experimented with the CC40r filter. But now that I know its a keeper, I miss not having the medium and high values.


I'd like to get the software, but currently running afoul of the WAF. Daves values work great with no filter and CC40r low so far. Maybe our HS10's are similar enough that we're getting similar results with the same settings.
 

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I have finally ordered my dvi cable and will hook up my htpc next week. I'm also getting some new component cables for my cable box (HDTV) and am curious if they will be better than the Sony combo cable. I will be using TheaterTek with a radeon 9000 so I imagine I will have to 'calibrate' for that as well. Hopefully I will get my glass cc40r filter soon so I can calibrate all at one time and be done with it for a week or so 'til I tweak some more :)
 

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Quote:
Originally posted by HTCrazy
Thanks guys! Since I'm not using smart or colorfacts, how do I extrapolate the medium and high settings from the low? I've been using Dave's low settings while I experimented with the CC40r filter. But now that I know its a keeper, I miss not having the medium and high values.


I'd like to get the software, but currently running afoul of the WAF. Daves values work great with no filter and CC40r low so far. Maybe our HS10's are similar enough that we're getting similar results with the same settings.
HT I guess I'm not really sure what you mean by using the medium and high values. Are you saying you want a conversion to get back to the somewhat same color balance w/cc40r filter as w/o the filter? I'm not sure anyone has done this as most people using the cc40r, I believe, are trying to get at least close to 6500k temp and flat greyscale. I think your best bet would be to have one setting w/ filter as close to 'calibrated' as possible, a setting w/o filter as close to 'calibrated' as possible, and then settings w/o filter at the higher temps but calibrated as flat a greyscale as possible at those temps. I guess what I'm trying to say is that I'm not sure what the benefit would be in using the cc40r filter at the high temp (11000k?). Would a cc40r be the correct filter to get a flat greyscale at that color temp? An interesting question and definitely out of my small sphere of knowledge. This is when it would be nice to have colorfacts to be able to calibrate to the higher temp...
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Inputting the RGB values take so little time that if I need unfiltered values, I'll just enter them when I need em. I've gotten in the habit of just watching at night with no ambient light, so the no filter option isn't that big a deal anymore.


Since my dealer required me to return the old bulb, I've just started using the complimentary one. and its extra brightness makes the image with the filter even slightly brighter than my 600 hr bulb had unflitered. So for now I'm sticking with the cc40r filter.
 
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