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after figuring out that i wont have as much space to work with as my last room....im not going to be able to use drywall on the ceiling (too much piping....). It looks like im going to have to go with something that will leave me with some level of accessibility to the piping (like a drop ceiling) :cry:. I cant stand the look of them and i cant do the type of recessed lighting that want ....at least thats what i think. Not only that but i always thought that drywall was better acoustically. If anyone out there has any ideas on a different type ceiling to use that will allow access above and the install of the recessed lighting i would be grateful. :smirk:
THANKS!
 

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We are doing drop ceiling in the finished area of our basement, going with 2' x 2' tiles that drop down slightly below the grid line. I think it looks nice with the right tile. We are also doing normal recessed lighting, with LED lighting/baffles. Why won't you be able to do recessed lighting?

Matt
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
We are doing drop ceiling in the finished area of our basement, going with 2' x 2' tiles that drop down slightly below the grid line. I think it looks nice with the right tile. We are also doing normal recessed lighting, with LED lighting/baffles. Why won't you be able to do recessed lighting?

Matt
Hey Matt,

The last room I did I installed the LED lighting that I think you're talking about and that was a drywall ceiling. I didn't think it would be possible with the different lighter material. Got a pic of your ceiling by chance? :)
 

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This is the drop ceiling that I am going to be using http://www.snapclipsystem.com/
It looks way better that any drop ceilings I have seen and you only loose about 1.5" of ceiling height.
I am worried about the reflective nature (light and sound) of the system but I may have a plan for that in the theater area
 

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after figuring out that i wont have as much space to work with as my last room....im not going to be able to use drywall on the ceiling (too much piping....). It looks like im going to have to go with something that will leave me with some level of accessibility to the piping (like a drop ceiling) :cry:. I cant stand the look of them and i cant do the type of recessed lighting that want ....at least thats what i think. Not only that but i always thought that drywall was better acoustically. If anyone out there has any ideas on a different type ceiling to use that will allow access above and the install of the recessed lighting i would be grateful. :smirk:
THANKS!
Canless LED recessed lights can be attached to nothing but the lightweight acoustic tiles.
http://www.amazon.com/Dimmable-Retr...8820215&sr=1-6&keywords=led+recessed+lighting

If it is the T-Bar that you don't like about drop ceilings, or the look of the acoustic tiles, you could try to get creative. You could glue neodymium magnets to the backs of the tiles and attach metal strips to the bottoms of the ceiling joists. You could also wrap the tiles in a fabric if you don't like the look of the acoustic tiles themselves. Although if you were going to wrap in fabric, and don't want/need the properties of the acoustic tiles, wrapping 1/4" masonite or pegboard, or anything flat would be cheaper than acoustic tiles.
 

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Hey Matt,

The last room I did I installed the LED lighting that I think you're talking about and that was a drywall ceiling. I didn't think it would be possible with the different lighter material. Got a pic of your ceiling by chance? :)
My ceiling is floor joists and roughed in electrical at this point, not much to see. The recessed cans attach to the ceiling grid without an issue, as long as the ceiling is properly supported. My biggest challenge is going to be configuring the grid layout so that the recessed cans land in the middle of the tile, while remaining within the floor joist spacing.
 

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I have used both ceilingmax (before they went big box store) and ceilinglink (just finished one). I much preferred ceilinglink. I had same issue as you and wanted to center the cans. Ain't then took some firring strips and attached to ceiling with marks every two feet. This gave me an idea of where the cans would be in relation to joists. For a p,easant surprise I realized the ceilinglink cross members don't attach to the long runs. Thus, I could slide a whole row of tiles either way (I leave perimeter tiles until last) and fine tuned it. I think my center cans are off center by 3". Everything else is great
 

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I have used both ceilingmax (before they went big box store) and ceilinglink (just finished one). I much preferred ceilinglink. I had same issue as you and wanted to center the cans. Ain't then took some firring strips and attached to ceiling with marks every two feet. This gave me an idea of where the cans would be in relation to joists. For a p,easant surprise I realized the ceilinglink cross members don't attach to the long runs. Thus, I could slide a whole row of tiles either way (I leave perimeter tiles until last) and fine tuned it. I think my center cans are off center by 3". Everything else is great
Thanks; I looked at your build thread as well, looks good. I looked over the CeilingLink site, looks like possibly a nice alternative to a typical drop, the main savings I see here is labor (?).

With the canned lights, did you basically nail them to the furring strips for support? Did you have to use the shallow cans, or were the normal ones ok? I see how the cross joists don't really secure and you can move them, I can see how that would help out with centering.

Thanks,
Matt
 

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I find it much less labor to screw the runners into the joists than to hang wires and level that way. I did not shim my ceiling at all. It was close enough and by simply backing a screw out or pulling the bottom runner slightly down you can get about 1/4 to 3/8 in adjustment. Unless your ceiling joists are really out of whack it should be fine.

The cans are nailed to the joists. I used standard H5iCat 5" cans. 6" would work, but I don't like the larger ones plus my Phillip Hue bulbs worked better in 5". 4" is good as well and gives you a better chance of centering the can.

Make sure you chose a decent ceiling tile. I used USG - Luna. Under $2 / sq ft. In my previous install I used cheaper ones and they did not have as sturdy a finish and I could not cut the rabbit along the outside. The better tiles let me cut the rabbit so all tiles sit the same.
 

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after figuring out that i wont have as much space to work with as my last room....im not going to be able to use drywall on the ceiling (too much piping....). It looks like im going to have to go with something that will leave me with some level of accessibility to the piping (like a drop ceiling) :cry:. I cant stand the look of them and i cant do the type of recessed lighting that want ....at least thats what i think. Not only that but i always thought that drywall was better acoustically. If anyone out there has any ideas on a different type ceiling to use that will allow access above and the install of the recessed lighting i would be grateful. :smirk:
THANKS!
coffer ceiling with using the open areas as removable panels. I was on a job a friend did and that's what he did for the customer. they too didn't want a drop ceiling so he came in and put plywood nailers where needed for the beams and then made the panels to be removable. he even used crown. the panels were inside the area of the crown. you could never tell they were removable. everyone was removable. grant it he said that ceiling cost double what the kitchen upstairs cost cause it took so long, but it was awesome.


jim
 

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The cans are nailed to the joists.
For some reason I'm having a hard time picturing this. You put in furring strips perpendicular (?) to the floor joists for the CeilingMax to screw to, right? Oh wait, the cans have adjustments up and down don't they, so they can accommodate the ~1" for the strips?

You didn't have any pipes/etc taller than 1" you needed to accommodate for? I think I do, will check tonight. Could you use 1" x 2" strips if you needed to to clear obstructions?
 

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you don't have to put furring strips. I did not in my two installations. Just use the joists if you can. The cans adjust more than enough if you you't use strips. If you do use strips, then mount to strips. Look at the first photo, the runners are mounted directly to joists.

http://www.ceilinglink.com/pics.htm


i moved one 1/2 pipe. i did it the old fashioned way (sweated the pipe). I later moved another pipe in way of can using the Shark Bite push fittings from HD. I HIGHLY recommend these. worth the extra change. Along one wall I had more pipes. I used 3/4" finger jointed pre-primed wood mounted perpendicular to the ceiling to create my soffit. This is because i had the outside wall to use as the other side and didn't need an elaborate box. Here is a pic before I put the ceiling up in the soffit area. The 2nd is a close up
 

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