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Discussion Starter #1
So, i was using the searching but did not find anything, maybe wrong keywords? If so, please excuse me!

Basically i was looking at my Elac B6 first gen and i was thinking, what if i make a new enclouse front ported? with the same dimmensions and everything, just with the port in the front face? this is a bad/creazy idea? or you thing that could work? I dont have much space in my listening room to separate them from the back wall, so maybe this could improve sound quality?
 

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If you're going to make the cabinet exactly the same dims, that means the port will fit on the front right now. That in mind, I'd just modify the existing cabinet rather than build a new one. I am doubtful it'll improve sound quality.
 

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If you're going to make the cabinet exactly the same dims, that means the port will fit on the front right now. That in mind, I'd just modify the existing cabinet rather than build a new one. I am doubtful it'll improve sound quality.
There is no space for moving the port to the front, beside modifying the actual cabinet, would be a point of no return is something goes bad!

Whe you doub about the sound you mean about moving the port to the front? or the making of another cabinet? They are on corners with less 25cm from the wall and i'm planning to move to a new house, where probably will be worse than now


EDIT: Now that i think about it, this open a lot of possibilities, i'm intrigued maybe putting a passive radiator instead of a port?
 

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You don't want to mess with driver to driver spacing or driver/baffle location, at least not without knowing what you're doing. It could easily require a crossover change/tweak and I don't think you want to go there. Port location is of secondary importance. I like PR's, but more for applications that are difficult or impractical to port.

As far as port proximity to rear wall, I haven't had major issues with that in real life. I hear about it all the time, but practically speaking I haven't seen/measured it as a problem. Are you hearing something that is causing you to want to re-design? Or if you just want to mess with stuff, which can certainly be fun, sure, pretty much copy the baffle setup as-is but give yourself a little extra room for a front mounted port. Safest bet is to keep internal volume the same, but normally I'd size 'er up 10% or so if I'm tweaking.
 

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There is no space for moving the port to the front, beside modifying the actual cabinet, would be a point of no return is something goes bad!

Whe you doub about the sound you mean about moving the port to the front? or the making of another cabinet? They are on corners with less 25cm from the wall and i'm planning to move to a new house, where probably will be worse than now


EDIT: Now that i think about it, this open a lot of possibilities, i'm intrigued maybe putting a passive radiator instead of a port?
Have you tried getting some foam and plugging the ports to see how it sounds.... ?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
You don't want to mess with driver to driver spacing or driver/baffle location, at least not without knowing what you're doing. It could easily require a crossover change/tweak and I don't think you want to go there. Port location is of secondary importance. I like PR's, but more for applications that are difficult or impractical to port.

As far as port proximity to rear wall, I haven't had major issues with that in real life. I hear about it all the time, but practically speaking I haven't seen/measured it as a problem. Are you hearing something that is causing you to want to re-design? Or if you just want to mess with stuff, which can certainly be fun, sure, pretty much copy the baffle setup as-is but give yourself a little extra room for a front mounted port. Safest bet is to keep internal volume the same, but normally I'd size 'er up 10% or so if I'm tweaking.
I have a few acustical problems in my room, but, i'm not sure where they come from, a read a lot of people telling about rear wall is a problem, but could not make a test in my room to isolate the effect of the rear wall, if i move them there is a lot of change but dont know why, probably natural nodes of the room!

I'm trying to get into the DIY(Subwoofer) a long time a go, but finnacial problems, allways make me wait, but this could be a fun proyect to get in, and maybe get a better sound?

Have you tried getting some foam and plugging the ports to see how it sounds.... ?
No! I put some "bass trap" behind it , but never try to put foam on it
 

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If I were going to do this, I'd start with 3/4" baltic birch (or MDF, but I dislike working with MDF), make it slightly taller to accommodate an internal brace and then you could move the port to the front bottom. But, you'd need to leave the woofer/tweeter the same space from one another (and from the top) and you'd need to make sure the front width was exactly the same. Not sure how much you could tweak depth for height as I'm not sure how long the port is in the Debut B6.

Or, you could sell them on craigslist for like $150, save the $50-$100 in materials and go out and buy the Debut 2.0's that already have the port on the front. Better yet, buy the Wharfedale 225's for $299 as they are a warm sounding speaker (like the original Debut). Plus, the port is on the bottom.
 

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Honestly, WAY before I'd start messing with changing port locations, I'd get a UMIK 1 and REW and start fooling around with room measurements to learn exactly what problems you're having and why. That's about $100, assuming you have a computer that runs REW, to get started. You can then put a minidsp in your signal chain and experiment with equalizing. That's about $320 all in, counting the mic.

Edit, based your measurement, that ~140hz range is going to be annoying. You could easily pull that down.
 

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32Hz in room with the original B6's? That's why I still love those speakers.

New 2.0 versions won't even come close to that.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
If I were going to do this, I'd start with 3/4" baltic birch (or MDF, but I dislike working with MDF), make it slightly taller to accommodate an internal brace and then you could move the port to the front bottom. But, you'd need to leave the woofer/tweeter the same space from one another (and from the top) and you'd need to make sure the front width was exactly the same. Not sure how much you could tweak depth for height as I'm not sure how long the port is in the Debut B6.

Or, you could sell them on craigslist for like $150, save the $50-$100 in materials and go out and buy the Debut 2.0's that already have the port on the front. Better yet, buy the Wharfedale 225's for $299 as they are a warm sounding speaker (like the original Debut). Plus, the port is on the bottom.
Selling is not an option right now, but it's present as soon as the economy get better here.. Interesting speaker those Wharfedale i didnt know about it.

I was thinking more of an horizontal setup, same distance between driver but the port to the left(Bottom) from the twitter having the speaker in an horizontal way due to the proxomity to the listening position

Honestly, WAY before I'd start messing with changing port locations, I'd get a UMIK 1 and REW and start fooling around with room measurements to learn exactly what problems you're having and why. That's about $100, assuming you have a computer that runs REW, to get started. You can then put a minidsp in your signal chain and experiment with equalizing. That's about $320 all in, counting the mic.

Edit, based your measurement, that ~140hz range is going to be annoying. You could easily pull that down.
Hello! I already have a UMIK I, that measurement was before creating a filter with REW, I solved a lot of problems with that, but those dips of around 80hz are super annoying, i couldn't do a lot about it, I even bought some panels to help with reber and lower everyhing like 10db when creating the filter, anyway, now i'm more worry about future problems in the new home, the room will be even smaller than now, something like 3x3 meters, that's why i'm intereseting in moving the port to the front, i have a pair of JBL ES30 before, and they have the same problems, like i said, i dont know if its related to the port location or just nodes in the room! I will start doing some experiments with MDF but i'm gonna wait a little to moving to the new home

Ty for the tips!

P/D: Using UMIK I and REW is day and night, for me at least it is the way in the future! I wish there was an easy way to fix timing problems with it

32Hz in room with the original B6's? That's why I still love those speakers.

New 2.0 versions won't even come close to that.
The have a little friend! (A JBL ES250P), But It's amazing the bass that can handle, incredible!
 

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Almost certainly room modes. You can mess with position. One trick is to have the mic set up near the listening position, play white noise and use the RTA on REW to "see" what is going on with your freq response. Play with speaker positioning (and timing if you have a minidsp) and you may find an orientation that fills the hole, or at least makes it better. On my computer system I have a wicked mode around 110-120hz that I side stepped by using different crossover types and slopes between sub and mains.

Chris
 

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The have a little friend! (A JBL ES250P), But It's amazing the bass that can handle, incredible!

You didn't say that. Measure without the sub in play as that will skew the results. The Debut's may not be your problem and/or it may require a simple port plug to fix.

Don't leave out details.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
You didn't say that. Measure without the sub in play as that will skew the results. The Debut's may not be your problem and/or it may require a simple port plug to fix.

Don't leave out details.
Hi! I allready did a meassure with and without the sub, the dips are still there, with bot pair of speakers! both back ported, anyway like i said above, I'm intrigue if this could be an improvement and an entry point to DIY, i dont have a clue of the origin of those dips, also like they said above i'm more into the idea of room modes, but reading the forum some people say that it's really important the space between the wall so..

:):):)
 
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