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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I would like to more about CIH.....Been digital for 11 years now, and I think it's time to move to 2.35:1 vs "the black bars"...I have an Epson TW2000, aka 1080UB and feel that this pj is worthy of such a task. How much do you think it would cost to 1. add an anamorphic lens, and 2. add a descent scaler that doesn't cost 2K. Any feedback would be great. I would, however, have to make a new DIY 2.35 screen for my theater.....How would movies like Cast Away and Saving Private Ryan look? I don't care about 4:3 stuff, but there are more than a few 16:9 movies out there...
 

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I decided to go 2.35 when I looked on the back of my Blu Ray/HDDVD and 98% of them were 2.35 or greater. You have 2 options with the UB; you can either zoom for much less money, or go the route you've inquired about. How much really depends on you. Lenses start from around 300 and go up from there. There is a great deal on B stock UH380's right now which would save you a few bucks. Key digital is closing out their old model scalers for around 500 bucks but they don't do 1080p/24 which is a deal breaker for some. You can pick up some nice used one's on Audio/Videogon for around the 1k mark which would do everything you need.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by KBMAN /forum/post/13004279


I would like to more about CIH.....Been digital for 11 years now, and I think it's time to move to 2.35:1 vs "the black bars"...I have an Epson TW2000, aka 1080UB and feel that this pj is worthy of such a task. How much do you think it would cost to 1. add an anamorphic lens, and 2. add a descent scaler that doesn't cost 2K. Any feedback would be great. I would, however, have to make a new DIY 2.35 screen for my theater.....How would movies like Cast Away and Saving Private Ryan look? I don't care about 4:3 stuff, but there are more than a few 16:9 movies out there...

hello kb, i guessing the tw2k has no onboard vert. stretch mode for cih use? i havent gotten around to reading any threads or reviews on it yet.
 

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I'm also interested in this topic. I have a 1080UB and it will not do the vertical stretching needed. And there's no way I'm going to do CIH with the zoom method with this since mine is ceiling mounted and would just about wear out the lens shift dials since my image shifts downwards as I zoom (due to the projector being around 15" above the top of the screen)...and I'm just not willing to lug the ladder out any time I need to change aspects.


I have no scaler. I'm not really excited about buying one in addition to laying down the cash for a lens.


Even though I really like my 1080UB, I'm seriously considering selling it, buying an Infocus 7210 that can do the vert stretch itself (and is a well respected 720p DLP on its own), and getting in on the Panamorph B stock sale mentioned above. Now that I've seen CIH I've got to have it and I may have to sacrifice the 1080UB for a lens now (can't afford 1080UB+lens+scaler right now) to have for when another 1080p projector comes along in its league with vert stretch capabilities and just "get by" with the 7210 in a CIH setup until then. I think I might actually save some money doing that which will get blown on the screen/masking.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by timmyotule /forum/post/13005043


Clevername: The Panasonic AE2000U also does the vertical stretch required.

yeah, I knew it did.


I like the value/cost ratio for the 7210/lens combo over the more expensive AE2000/lens combo, especially if I'm doing this with the plan to upgrade to a 1080p DLP when their prices come down.
 

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Basically you can use a scaler, HTPC, or the zoom method. Obviously the last is the least expensive, but not the slickest way of doing it.


There are some excellent video processors for not a lot of money (ie. Lumagen HDP).
 

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Has anyone thought about the HTPC route with this projector? PowerDVD + YXY seems to be doing the job for me...


Mark
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by clevername /forum/post/13004951


I'm also interested in this topic. I have a 1080UB and it will not do the vertical stretching needed. And there's no way I'm going to do CIH with the zoom method with this since mine is ceiling mounted and would just about wear out the lens shift dials since my image shifts downwards as I zoom (due to the projector being around 15" above the top of the screen)...and I'm just not willing to lug the ladder out any time I need to change aspects.


I have no scaler. I'm not really excited about buying one in addition to laying down the cash for a lens.


Even though I really like my 1080UB, I'm seriously considering selling it, buying an Infocus 7210 that can do the vert stretch itself (and is a well respected 720p DLP on its own), and getting in on the Panamorph B stock sale mentioned above. Now that I've seen CIH I've got to have it and I may have to sacrifice the 1080UB for a lens now (can't afford 1080UB+lens+scaler right now) to have for when another 1080p projector comes along in its league with vert stretch capabilities and just "get by" with the 7210 in a CIH setup until then. I think I might actually save some money doing that which will get blown on the screen/masking.

i hear ya; my next pj WILL have vert stretch for cih. that is my 'ht' goal; if it has to be a 720p model (due to lack of $
), then so be it.

 

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no, I think the basic idea with the zooming method is taking the 2.35 image you get in the 16x9 frame with the black bars above and below and zooming it so the black bars are above and below the edges of your screen...in other words you expand the image so that the actual picture that's showing the movie fills the entire height of your 16x9 screen.


This moves the lateral portions of the picture off the sides of your 16x9 screen, though (you're actually gaining quite a bit of picture on the sides as opposed to losing it) so you need to set your screen up to be able to display that. So, you need a screen that is the same height as your 16x9 screen but it needs to be wide enough to show your 2.35 content when you use the zooming method (or use a lens). When you're ready to go back to 16x9 you "undo" the zoom and put masking up over the extra screen on the sides.


The problem some of us run into with this method is if you have a ceiling mounted projector or any situation where your lens if off center vertically the image will shift (downwards in the case of ceiling mounted projectors) when the zoom is used. So then you have to use lens shift to move the pic back into frame. Then use lens shift again when you "undo" the zoom and go back to 16x9.


It's a lot of hassle each time you want to do it if you're ceiling mounted (especially if your ceiling mount requires getting a ladder out as mine does).
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
SO,

Basically, I need a 2.35 Screen which I was trying to avoid. My homemade 100" 16:9 screen is to die for. In most cases, it looks better than most screens I have seen to date. However, I am finding that losing the "bars" is what I want, perhaps leaving the viewer with a more involving picture. That's atleast my experience with 16:9 movies on my setup. The Epson, on the other hand, has really good blacks and now I have to think about this one.........
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by CAVX /forum/post/13005773


Has anyone thought about the HTPC route with this projector? PowerDVD + YXY seems to be doing the job for me...


Mark

The problem with HTPCs is if you HD material. I don't think there's a program available to stretch HD-DVDs or Blu-Ray played on a PC.


You also couldn't stretch HD TV but I'm not sure if this is an issue.


For SD material though a HTPC is a fine solution.
 

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Basically if you have a 2.35:1 screen, when watching 16:9 you fill the top to bottom area (and thus have empty screen on each side). When you watch 2.35:1 material, you zoom in such that you now fill the width, which on 2.35:1 movies will coincidentally fill the height. Yes you are overshooting the top and bottom of the screen this way, but in theory that top/bottom area is black anyways for 2.35:1 movies.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by timmyotule /forum/post/13017216


The problem with HTPCs is if you HD material. I don't think there's a program available to stretch HD-DVDs or Blu-Ray played on a PC.

The post you quoted lists the programs needed to stretch HD-DVD and Blu-Ray, YXY and PowerDVD. I've been doing that for about a year now, PowerDVD is kinda buggy, but it generally works.
 
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