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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I always thought the Antec PP403X PS I had would be the last cause for problems because it was supposed to be high-quality, but this wasn't the case.


After a year of having bad EMI problems on my 8500 secondary output, and then on my new motherboard having shutdowns every time I ran a game, I decided for the hell of it to put in my old generic 300watter to see what happend: Lo and behold- EMI problems gone, turn-offs gone.


Ok- I can no longer overclock (reboots), but I suppose this is to be expected, running a 300watt PS on a loaded nForce2 setup-


Is it worth RMA'ing the Antec? I still have a few months left on warranty and model is discontinued, so maybe they'll send me a better one- or should I just purchase a new one? I see some 600watt aluminums going for around $60 now, and they appear to rate very well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
On the 8500- on the DVI/VGA adapter, horrible jumpy ghost-lines, flickering- just completely unwatchable. Eventually I got tired of the flickering and switched my HDTV to the VGA port, but then my work monitor had the lines-better than watching a movie that way.


On the primary VGA port, there was a little of the rolling bar problem, but it wasn't too bad. Now they're both rock solid.


All this time, even on the last motherboard I had, I thought it was the card. I never thought to change the PS- mainly because on the K7S5A I had before this, it didn't shut-down, even overclocked, like it does on my new FIC AU11 (8RDA+). So the new board must be sensitive to problems- funny how the 300watter works on it though- it wouldn't work at all on the K7S5A.


I'll probably RMA it to Antec. It probably won't cost me more than $5 to ship (heavy though), and it should still work as well as anything else I purchase. If I'm lucky they'll give me a nice refurbed True-Power 430.
 

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Why would you ever need a 600 watt power supply?


I just measured the wattage usage of my computer plus the UPS battery backup at a whopping 203 watts and that's at 100% CPU usage with my Athlon 1800+. My power supply is a Enermax 330 watter and I have no EMI lines on my displays.
 

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I have RMA'ed two Antec power supplies. One was outside its warranty period by 1 year. Antec was very good about taking the power supplies back for service with no questions asked. If I remember correctly, they took a credit card number and advanced shipped the supplies to me. The credit card was in case I did not send the old one back.


If they are still doing the advanced ship option, you could get a RMA number and get a new PS and try it to see if it is better for EMI. Ship which ever one is worse back to them. Just tell them you need a RMA, but want advanced ship because you do not want to be without your computer (even with its problmatic PS) till the new one arrives.


For what it is worth, I am still buying Antec PS's. I have found the newer true power PS's to significantly be better in the EMI/EMF department over the older PP____X series you have. I was seeing EMI patterns on my TV Tuner card until I upgraded to a truepower.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Any replacement is going to better the current one because of the auto-shutdown problem- although the EMI is so bad if they send me a replacement that exhibits this problem I'll just ship it back.


Right now I'm using a 300watt CompUSA branded PS. I suspect CompUSA uses various OEMs for their brand, and this one is probably a Sparkle, who has a good rep. The fact that I get a reboot on an overclock is a bit confusing- but during the course of my shutdown problem I thought I had a heat issue- so I remove the thermal pad from the heatsync and put Arctic Silver 3 on it.


I guess I'll find out when I get the 400watt replacement just what's going on- I do suspect it's just the 300watt just can't handle even a minor overclock. I'm running at stock 133 now, before I was stable at 147.
 

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The more likely situation is that your Generic 300W isn't providing the consistent power flow that your overclocking requires. Just get the Antec replaced under warranty.


If you want to try something different get an Enermax 400+W power supply, they are considered by many to be very good.
 

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You can't measure a PC's power needs by using a wattmeter on the AC cord. The PS and MB both use capacitance.


The power needs of a PC will depend on what you have in it. Even then, you need significant head room on your PS rating to account for the age of the PS (they lose capacity with usage) and occasional internal power surges that occur when the HD, CD player etc. speed up.
 

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Quote:
You can't measure a PC's power needs by using a wattmeter on the AC cord. The PS and MB both use capacitance.


The power needs of a PC will depend on what you have in it. Even then, you need significant head room on your PS rating to account for the age of the PS (they lose capacity with usage) and occasional internal power surges that occur when the HD, CD player etc. speed up.
While all of what you say is true, 600W is still massive overkill for the vast majority of HTPC's. The whole point of using capacitance is to handle those surges you describe.
 

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I agree. 400w should be plenty.
 

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With respect, saying nnnW should be plenty is simplification to the point of meaninglessness.


"Title" wattages are simply a number the marketting department thinks it can claim without being thrown in jail. You must look at the detailed specifications for each rail and the total capacity, both overall and in respect to the +3.3 and +5.0 (TCO - not a factor in Antec Truepower series).


Then you must match the power requirements of YOUR specific system in terms of both load and source rail(does the mobo use the +5.0 for the CPU or the +12.0 etc).


Then follow with regulation, ripple, active power correction, etc.


And of course, noise.


There are 400W PSUs being sold with only 14A on the +3.3 rail!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Ok, got the Antec PP403x replacement, exact same model.


While the PS itself is more stable, the EMI problems have returned. Same exact problem as with the last PP403x.


Now I'm in a quandry- since my 8500 did not exhibit these problems with the cheapie CompUSA PS- I'm not sure what to make of it.


Any help would be appreciated.
 

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Would say that you have confirmed that this particular series/model radiates 'noise' in a fequency range to which your system is sensitive.


Sorry, but you either go the route of trying to shield things (and pray the EMI is radiated, not carried through the power lines) or change brand/series/model. In the latter case, do some research on who actually builds the PSU, as there are actually rather few manufacturers and many rebrands.
 
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