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I won't buy another table saw unless it is the Sawstop or has Sawstop technology in it. But really I use my Festool track saw system for most of my cutting needs and it is portable, accurate, and pretty darn safe. A table saw excels for multiple wide/long cuts but Festool has some accessories that get it pretty close while taking a ton less room.
I have a Kregg ripping jig, which is great for straight rips with a circular saw, but doesn't do angles. I made a simple 'track' to make angled rips and other cuts. But what I can't do easily is actually make a cut with the blade itself at a set angle. a. It's difficult to set an accurate angle of the circular saw, and b. It's difficult to know exactly where the blade will cut the target material.

If the Festool can easily do that last thing I may well take a look at it. Sawstop etc. hasn't reached these shores yet.

Apologies for heading OT Chinadog.:eek:
 

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I have a Kregg ripping jig, which is great for straight rips with a circular saw, but doesn't do angles. I made a simple 'track' to make angled rips and other cuts. But what I can't do easily is actually make a cut with the blade itself at a set angle. a. It's difficult to set an accurate angle of the circular saw, and b. It's difficult to know exactly where the blade will cut the target material.

If the Festool can easily do that last thing I may well take a look at it. Sawstop etc. hasn't reached these shores yet.

Apologies for heading OT Chinadog.:eek:
Chinadog - if you want this distraction deleted, just ask.

I have the TS55 and recommend that or the larger TS75 (primarily for 2x material). Festool makes the Bezel attachment (https://www.festool.com/Products/Accessories/Pages/Detail.aspx?pid=491588&name=Accessories-for-guide-rails-FS-KS) for the guide rails to cut angles. The Festool MFT table also has the capability to do repeatable angled cuts as well. Festool itself has many accessories to make things work better and many of the products interoperate together to make the overall system work even better than the individual products. I highly recommend Festool tools from saws to vacs to routers to MFS, to MFT, to LR32, etc, etc. Love the system.

By the way, Festool recently came out with a line of saws for carpenters (primarily for working at different worksites) and I noticed one accessory where the angle cutter locked in with the saw. I looked at it briefly and felt the standard TS line of saws was better for me but you might at least want to look at it.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,164
First coat of paint on the trim last night after some sanding. I worked on the upper parts and my daughter worked on the lower sections. Just did the one wall. Starting to get a feel for what the final product will look like.




Bud
 

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I smell a HTOM submission at the end of the month :cool:

Started reading your thread 2 nights ago - just finished! What a ride it's been, huh? Surgery, kids growing up, fire.... your perserverance is admirable! I would say I'd steal some of your design ideas for when I do my own dedicated space...but I make a bowl of cereal on a good day. I'll just have to live vicariously through you and all the other incredibly detailed and well-built DIY theaters throughout the forum.

Thanks for keeping us updated during your process! You've got a stadium of fans cheering you on as you approach completion :D
 

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I smell a HTOM submission at the end of the month :cool:

Started reading your thread 2 nights ago - just finished! What a ride it's been, huh? Surgery, kids growing up, fire.... your perserverance is admirable! I would say I'd steal some of your design ideas for when I do my own dedicated space...but I make a bowl of cereal on a good day. I'll just have to live vicariously through you and all the other incredibly detailed and well-built DIY theaters throughout the forum.

Thanks for keeping us updated during your process! You've got a stadium of fans cheering you on as you approach completion :D
Appreciate the comments! Hope I don't disappoint! Life has a way of getting in the way, doesn't it? ;)

Bud
 

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Got the rest of the first coat of paint on the trim and did the second coat on the right wall. Took some pictures, but they're all starting to look the same, brown and yellow. I'll finish up the back and left wall tomorrow night and roll a coat on the counter walls. Then I'll post pictures. :)

Hopefully, on Wed night, I'll build the screen wall and temporarily put up the screen!

Bud
 

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Discussion Starter #1,172 (Edited)
Got the second coat on everything. I like it, it's really what I expected (knew that doing the ceiling first) and I think the fabric and the sconces choices will really make it work well. The counter from may need a little touch up, but I'm done (except for the doors). I'll work on the doors this weekend if I have the time. I wanted to get everything out of the way that I had a dependency to get the carpets in. Think if I get the screen wall done tomorrow night I'll be pretty much wrapped up for carpet. I'll wait to put the fabric in once the carpet is installed, but I have plenty of things to get done before then. Also, two things. I noticed both my doors stick a little. Not sure if it's all the rain and humidity lately or what. My OSB on the floor, there are spots that did not adhere, so you can feel it move. I've used a little construction adhesive to fix it and it seems to work (cut a hot with a small hole saw, insert construction adhesive, plug hole). I've also shot a few concrete nails/anchors into the floor in spots where it won't be noticed under the carpet and mat. Anyone else have issues like that?

Pictures - here you go.










Bud
 

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Anyone else have issues like that?
Yes. I used Tapcons of sufficient length to go directly into the concrete Considering this couples your floor to structure, may not be a great option in your situation. I also ended up laying 1/4" Luan plywood over the whole floor. The millions of Staples you use to tack the 1/4" ply to the OSB will keep any other lifting in check. Make sense?
 

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Yes. I used Tapcons of sufficient length to go directly into the concrete Considering this couples your floor to structure, may not be a great option in your situation. I also ended up laying 1/4" Luan plywood over the whole floor. The millions of Staples you use to tack the 1/4" ply to the OSB will keep any other lifting in check. Make sense?
Yeah, makes sense. It's only one board that's bad, although there is one or two other spots that I noticed. One of which is under the seats, so I'm not too worried about that. I'm more concerned about feeling nails under foot.

Bud
 

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Discussion Starter #1,177 (Edited)
Worked on the screen wall tonight. Relatively straight forward, but I think I need to make some adjustments. I'm a little concerned about the framing in front of the sub, it blocks it some. I only added the lower support because I thought the screen frame also locked in on the bottom. It still may, I used both cleats on the top and maybe one was for the top and the other the bottom. If I don't need the bottom one, I could take out the 2x4s and that would buy me a few inches. The height of the screen (the inside top and bottom of the frame is exactly where it should be according to the plan. The bottom 2x4 extends past the screen fram because I was going to use track to secure the fabric. If I pull the bottom one, I could just build a frame and fiction fit it under the screen, that may add another inch. I could also pull the top frame because that area I had to build do to the HVAC restriction and couple raise the whole frame a couple of more inches, not sure if that'll have an effect on viewing and new fatigue. I guess I'll ping Dennisl.

@BIGmouthinDC Any thoughts?




Here are shots with the wood painted and the frame assembled and in place. You can see the bottom (lighter black) of the 2x4 versus the black velveteen around the screen frame.



Bud
 

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from the White Oaks project. the extent of the false wall framing.

\


Not a fan of fabric track for the front wall, I like to be able to take it down and put back in under 10 minutes, can't do that with Track attached to framing. So I build frames and wrap with fabric, held in place with Velcro strips, like 8 inches in each corner. It is OK to block the subs with a little bit of framing, check with Dennis may you can lower yours a bit.

 

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Discussion Starter #1,179 (Edited)
Thanks Jeff!

Here's the response I got back from Dennis on the 2x4/sub issue:

"At 80 Hz, the wave length is approx. 14’ feet. A 14’ wave is not likely to be annoyed by a few 2x4 supports."

I guess I'll leave it.

I can always pull the screen off if I need to get behind it. It's very light and easy to hang. I've used the frames in the past and they work well though. I've got the track, so I'll give it a shot this time. If I do everything right, I won't be getting behind the screen anytime soon. It's not like I can fit my fat body through the side of that screen wall anyway. :)

Bud
 

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No real theater work last night, just cleanup. Started really in the workshop. I think I had a least a foot of sawdust from all the MDF and boards I ripped. That crap was also airborne and was on everything. I guess there is something to be said about dust collection systems. I spent a good hour and a half with the shop vac cleaning everything off and putting tools away. Two big bags of sawdust and trash to get rid of. Tonight I'll start working on putting tools and other things away so I can start to cleanup and make room for carpeting (two weeks) and the wood floors in the rest of the basement (10 days). Still have a few things to do outside the theater room over the next two weeks. I'm hoping to attack the door treatments in the inside of the theater this weekend. I think I see some bright thing at the end of the tunnel.

Bud
 
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