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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I think the thread for my previous HT ten years ago went over 50 pages, but this HT was probably one of the quickest builds here and the build thread will be just as short.

We moved across town last year into a new house. We always host a large Super Bowl party (50-75 people) but last year I just hung a projector in the unfinished part of our basement and told everyone I'd try to have it finished for next year.

I was on the road for work more than I was home last year, but finished up a major project at New Year's and would have a couple of weeks before my next project started.

I decided to see if I could build a HT in a couple of weeks in time for Super Bowl. Nothing fancy, but I wanted to give props to AVS and the guys that share a LOT of invaluable information here, especially Jeff (BigmouthinDC). I think Jeff loaned me his drywall lift for my previous theater. I didn't bug him for tips this time, but I incorporated countless tips in this build, especially the minimalist screen.

I kept it simple (and budget friendly), but added some basics...
* OSB + 5/8" heavy drywall with Green Glue and QuietGlue Pro
* backer boxes for in-ceiling surrounds
* acoustically transparent screen
* recessed equipment rack with separate overhead spot light
* Linacoustic GoM panels

Completed:




Plan:


Jan 18th...


OSB...


drywall...


Jan 19th

Tape and mud...


Jan 25th

 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Super Bowl is this weekend.

I installed the carpet, built the riser and screen.

Today's status...




Another thanks to Curtis G, who posted the GoM locally for free. Color was perfect. The blue GoM+Linacoustic panels match the rest of the basement (you can see the wall color through the door)...





I'm going to dye the seats black after the Super Bowl...
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Here's the entrance to the theater... a bar that I built last year (almost to the day). Same basic color scheme... black and blue. Also the same beadboard.



The white door is to a utility room, which also give me access to the back of the recessed rack.

The entrance to the HT is in the middle between the digital movie poster (a USB slideshow on a flat panel tv turned sideways mounted from the back of the wall) and the neon sign.
 

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Nice,

I plan to do my screen wall just like yours(Flat Style). Would you have any other photos or a quick summary how you did it? I like your seating setup, the mixture between recliners and theater seats. I was wanting to do something similar but i dont think my room is long enough for that. Could you possibly give the seating distances and the depth of your riser please. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
I plan to do my screen wall just like yours(Flat Style). Would you have any other photos or a quick summary how you did it?
I didn't take pictures during the build, but here's the powerpoint that I used as a design sketch for the screen...



The green boards are turned flat-sided (3.5") so you can attach the 1x2 finger-joined frames of the black side cloth panels. See Big's "minimalist screen" thread.

One twist... I added 4 hinges to the top of my screen so I can access the speaker space behind. Works great. I just put the ladder in front of the screen and it holds the hinged screen open so I can work behind there when needed.

I like your seating setup, the mixture between recliners and theater seats. I was wanting to do something similar but i dont think my room is long enough for that. Could you possibly give the seating distances and the depth of your riser please. Thanks!
I'll like it better once I dye the seats black. The different shades of brown bother me. I have 4 more recliners that match the 2nd row seats, but then I came across a killer deal on the other four front seats with electric recline... they're very comfortable and I like having the infinite adjustability of electric recline instead of the 2 position manual recline.

Here's the powerpoint that I sketched up for the riser...



I wanted more height for the second row, but didn't want a second step, so I just added another 2x4 mini-riser to mount the seats on. Brings the sitting height to 12".
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I used black DMD acoustic fabric for the side panels. Highly recommended. Very durable... much better than any speaker cloth.

http://www.acoustimac.com/dmd-acoustic-fabric/

And I used "Carl's SheerWeave, Projector Screen Material, Acoustically Transparent" (search amazon or ebay for it).

Very happy with the screen material. Easy to staple. Looks and sounds great. I bought the 98x131 size which gave me plenty for a 10-20 degree angle on a 120x67.5 screen to avoid vertical/horizontal moire patterns.

One other thing I was happy with... "Deadbolt banana plugs by Sewell" (again, search amazon). And the Arlington outlet box extenders from amazon. And the 6-32 2" extender screws. And the twisted veins hdmi cables from amazon. UPS must've made 15 stops at my house this month. I love the 2-day shipping. I probably made 6 trips to Home Depot.
 

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Could you provide a little more info on the dyeing process? Was it DIY? Any tips and tricks? It turned out really well.
 
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Discussion Starter #10
Could you provide a little more info on the dyeing process?
I used 3 steps:

Fiebings Deglazer... scrub the old gloss coat off. This would also clean the surface, but since these were unused seats, I didn't have to worry about that.

Fiebings Professional Oil Dye. I applied it undiluted with the wool daubers on the first coat. Then I found that it really worked well to buff it in with 50/50 Lexol leather conditioner on the second coat... the Lexol really soaks deep into the leather and gives you time to buff any splotches out. I used my turtlewax car buffer to really work it in. FWIW, I ordered a 4 oz bottle of this and it did 2 chairs, so I ordered 2 more bottles. Each bottle was about $7.

Fiebings Resolene Black leather finish. This waterproofs the leather and prevents the pigment from rubbing off. The biggest tip here is to dilute it 50/50 with water... 2 thin coats are better than one thick coat. I brushed it on, worked it in by brushing in 4 different directions, then rubbed it in with a microfiber towel. This avoids the plasticky gloss look. One $7 bottle did 3 diluted coats on all chairs.

Some additional tips... definitely wear gloves. And after the first coat, use a work light to looks for spots and seams that didn't get adequate coverage. Overall, I'd say it's pretty hard to mess up, especially with black. Color matching might be more challenging. Plus, I was dealing with unworn, genuine leather. Not sure how much harder it would be with worn, bonded or faux leather. If it was nicer outside, I probably would've taken the effort to disassemble every seat and get the unseen nooks and crannies.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
It's been a few years since I've taken screenshots, but here are some from the first movie we watched (well, we watched it in 3D, but these screenshots are from the 2D bluray)...


The Hulk was in the previews and I thought it would be a fitting tribute to those of you who remember my AVS avatar from circa 2003, back when a 10'-wide screen was considered waaaay too big, now it seems almost a standard size...











Do you care to share your budget? Just curious.

Budget was very reasonable:
  • lumber (framing, riser, rack, screen, linacoustic panels)... $400
  • electrical (12 lights, 12 outlets, switches, romex, breakers, etc)... $200
  • permits... $130
  • insulation... $300
  • hvac ducts and registers... $100
  • 9' OSB and 5/8" fire-rated drywall, delivered... $800
  • paint and mud... $100
  • (4) Polk in-ceiling surrounds... $170
  • carpet... $300
  • beadboard, baseboards, casing, crown moulding, chair rail... $800
  • screen... $250
  • black fabric for screen surround... $60
  • linacoustic (panels and behind screen)... $150 (but still have half the roll)

So about $3800 for construction materials. I already had a lot of stuff like the in-wall speaker cable and the GG/QuietGluePro that I'd picked up as surplus from other builds. I also have isolation clips, but decided not to use hat channel.

Matching set of 4 leather recliners and the 5 matching folding theater seats on the riser... $800
but then I got 4 electric leather recliners that I liked even better for $400 (total... they were best buy floor samples), so I'm selling the other 4 non-power recliners for $400... a wash cost-wise.
Add $50 for the black dye and top coat.
Barstools and pub tables for back row... $500

Already had the receiver, LCR+(2) 15" subs, and 3D blu-ray player.

Upgraded projector to JVC DLA-RS56... $2250
3D glasses and chief mount... $250.

So including the new projector, about $7k total.

It actually came in below my informal estimate. I shoot sports on the side as a hobby. I usually buy new cameras and lenses with the proceeds, but I didn't buy any camera equipment this year, so I figured this would be a fun way to spend last year's profits.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Noticed this pic posted top of page 40, but no reference to the builder or thread, anyone know who's it is? Would like to learn more, Thx Jim

I did check Clarence but no bar build in his thread, interested in this bar build more so than anything, but thanks Jim
I didn't do a build thread on the bar, but I'll try to dig out my plans if you have any specific questions.

Some of the main features:

Poured-in-place concrete bartop. Standard 2x4 framing structure, with ramset nails fired into the slab floor (which is covered in grouted Ceramica tiles from HD in a herringbone pattern)... very durable floor. The framing was solid, but once I tacked on the bead board panels, I was shocked at how it wouldn't even budge no matter how hard or where I tried to shake it.

I used the snap-off bullnose edge forms from http://concretecountertopsolutions.com/ - worked great. I spent way too much time reading, and researching, and grinding. You pretty much just build the bar, use wonderboard or hardie backer board on the top. Screw down the edge forms. I used cast iron brackets on the bottom, just for extra bracing.

Mix up the concrete. I used this mixer from Harbor Freight: http://www.harborfreight.com/3-1-2-half-cubic-ft-cement-mixer-67538.html because I plan to do an outdoor patio this summer. I used wire mesh for added strength. And I added black pigment to the mix and black sealer on top. I bought a grinder with all of the various levels of grit. But in hindsight, you get most of the finish from the trowel. I think I could've done just one or two passes with the grinder instead of a half dozen. The topcoat and sealer really finished it off smoother than the fine grinding. And then a polish of beeswax applied with my car wax buffer, which I reapply every month or so when I think about it.

And we have purse hangers (which I never heard of, but all my wife's friends said a real bar has to have purse hangers). And I built a footrail using standard pipe from HD. And I added some LED strip lights under the bar top... gives a nice, hidden, subtle glow to the seats and floor. And a really cool bottle opener mounted on the side with a super powerful magnet to catch the bottle caps... that magnet is a lot of fun.

Rock solid. We love it.

Built the TV/wine rack as the first project with my Kreg jig. Turned out great. Super solid. The flat panel TV uses the 2nd HDMI output from my receiver, so it shows whatever the projector is showing. Another flat panel TV is used as a digital movie poster... mounted from behind the wall, framed out with simple molding, rotated sideways, 1000 movie posters on a USB stick, the built-in slideshow feature cycles a new poster every 10 seconds.

I added a little extra space behind the bar than most plans call for. 4' instead of the typical 3' IIRC. Used Ikea laminate tops for the lower work surfaces. The round sink is from Ikea too. A small glass-front beer fridge is underneath. Metal backsplash.
 

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I didn't do a build thread on the bar, but I'll try to dig out my plans if you have any specific questions.

Some of the main features:

Poured-in-place concrete bartop. Standard 2x4 framing structure, with ramset nails fired into the slab floor (which is covered in grouted Ceramica tiles from HD in a herringbone pattern)... very durable floor.

I used the snap-off bullnose edge forms from http://concretecountertopsolutions.com/ - worked great. I spent way too much time reading, and researching, and grinding. You pretty much just build the bar, use wonderboard or hardie backer board on the top. Screw down the edge forms. I used cast iron brackets on the bottom, just for extra bracing.

Mix up the concrete. I used this mixer from Harbor Freight: http://www.harborfreight.com/3-1-2-half-cubic-ft-cement-mixer-67538.html because I plan to do an outdoor patio this summer. I used wire mesh for added strength. And I added black pigment to the mix and black sealer on top. I bought a grinder with all of the various levels of grit. But in hindsight, you get most of the finish from the trowel. I think I could've done just one or two passes with the grinder instead of a half dozen. The topcoat and sealer really finished it off smoother than the fine grinding. And then a top coat of beeswax applied with my car wax buffer, which I reapply every month or so when I think about it.

And I have purse hangers (which I never heard of, but all my wife's friends said a real bar has to have purse hangers). And I built a footrail using standard pipe from HD. And I added some LED strip lights under the bar top... gives a nice, hidden, subtle glow to the seats and floor. And a really cool bottle opener mounted an the side with a super powerful magnet to catch the bottle caps... that magnet is a lot of fun.

Rock solid. We love it.

Built the TV/wine rack as the first project with my Kreg jig. Turned out great. Super solid. The flat panel TV uses the 2nd HDMI output from my receiver, so it shows whatever the projector is showing. Another flat panel TV is used as a digital movie poster... mounted from behind the wall, framed out with simple molding, rotated sideways, 1000 movie posters on a USB stick, the built-in slideshow feature cycles a new poster every 10 minutes.

I added a little extra space behind the bar than most plans call for. 4' instead of the typical 3' IIRC. Used Ikea laminate tops for the lower work surfaces. The round sink is from Ikea too. A small glass-front beer fridge is underneath. Metal backsplash.
Thank you so much for posting some info on your bar build, love the whole look of it. Thinking of doing similar layout but flipped and maybe a foot or 2 less deep. Once I have the dimensions i will know for sure. Jim
 

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Great pics of the process! What are the dimensions of the layout if you don't mind? Preferably the space BETWEEN front & back counters and bar top lengths? Thanks again, Jim
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Great pics of the process! What are the dimensions of the layout if you don't mind? Preferably the space BETWEEN front & back counters and bar top lengths? Thanks again, Jim
I added a little extra space behind the bar than most plans call for. 4' instead of the typical 3' IIRC.
This isn't to scale, but I took measurements and did a rough sketch in powerpoint...

 

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This isn't to scale, but I took measurements and did a rough sketch in powerpoint...

Wow Clarence, thx so much for going through all the trouble, this and your pics will certainly help me determine dimensions for my own space for sure! Will be sure to update you when i start my own build thread. Currently using Sketchup to map it all out now. Have a great weekend, Jim
 

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Here's the entrance to the theater... a bar that I built last year (almost to the day). Same basic color scheme... black and blue. Also the same beadboard.



The white door is to a utility room, which also give me access to the back of the recessed rack.

The entrance to the HT is in the middle between the digital movie poster (a USB slideshow on a flat panel tv turned sideways mounted from the back of the wall) and the neon sign.
Very nice and efficient build. Do you have any picture or sketch of your basement layout?
 
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