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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 15 year old DaLite High Power 2.8 gain electric drop screen. Over the years, it has numerous bug smears on it as well as overall dark film of dust. I'm scared to clean it with anything...I Googled "Cleaning High Power" with various results. Some people say wipe with distilled water and some say use isopropyl alcohol. Some say don't try it at all. So, I thought I would ask here for any recommendations?
On a related front, there were a couple of large bug smears that I tried to remove . They were so glued down that when I finally got them off, it took a small "chip" out of the reflective surface. Is it possible to patch those small chips with some sort of paint? If so, what would people recommend? I thought about trying bright white "Wite Out" correction fluid. It dies quickly and stays flexible...
Thoughts?
 

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I have a 15 year old DaLite High Power 2.8 gain electric drop screen. Over the years, it has numerous bug smears on it as well as overall dark film of dust. I'm scared to clean it with anything...I Googled "Cleaning High Power" with various results. Some people say wipe with distilled water and some say use isopropyl alcohol. Some say don't try it at all. So, I thought I would ask here for any recommendations?
On a related front, there were a couple of large bug smears that I tried to remove . They were so glued down that when I finally got them off, it took a small "chip" out of the reflective surface. Is it possible to patch those small chips with some sort of paint? If so, what would people recommend? I thought about trying bright white "Wite Out" correction fluid. It dies quickly and stays flexible...
Thoughts?
I don't think there is any way to repair the surface that won't make it look worse. I think when cleaning, you need to " dab " gently, and you could call and ask Da Lite what to use. I'm afraid to touch my screen surface to tell you the truth ! :eek:
 

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Do not under any circumstances use isopropyl or methyl alcohol.
Despite (if I recall correctly) being told methyl was safe I ruined mine.

Water. Dab. (Though I think you can add a little pressure when using a microfibre and water only, I had done that previously)
I have found no solution to fill "the hole" in my screen.

Good luck!
 

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I cleaned mine with a Microfiber cloth on a stick(with it on flat pad holder), regular water worked fine. No answer for bug stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I cleaned mine with a Microfiber cloth on a stick(with it on flat pad holder), regular water worked fine. No answer for bug stuff.
What do you mean by "flat pad holder"? Just using plain water, did you have any issues with smearing the dirt around? Also, did you use a circular motion or a side to side?
Any thoughts on patching small areas of the surface? White paint?
 

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I used one of the Floor cleaning Microfiber tools. It's flat and has a swivel, a pole attaches to it, and it has Velcro to attach the Microfiber. I used it wet/squeezed, just warm water. Gently, straight up and down, went over it a few times. Don't have spots on mine, so I don't know. I read online that other folks did it this way with good results. Worked for me here.
 

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I had a small brownish stain (maybe coffee) on mine (HP 2.4)
Tried cleaning with water and it didn't really help, however some of the screen surface did come off, clearly visible. That was the end of that screen for me.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I had a small brownish stain (maybe coffee) on mine (HP 2.4)
Tried cleaning with water and it didn't really help, however some of the screen surface did come off, clearly visible. That was the end of that screen for me.
That's what I'm afraid of. I still have not mustered the courage to try cleaning it. I just live with the small anomalies. I wish that DaLite still made the material. That way, if it did not go well, there is a plan "B". It's a testament to how great the HP is that I would rather live with a few small stains then go to something else...
 

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Humbland, I never did clean my entire screen. Had a few bugs so I cleaned them by re-hydrating them with a wet rag for a few minutes.
However, once removed (without great rubbing) there were micro beads missing. This leads me to believe that the bug guts after long exposure breaks down the adhesion.. So your chips where the bugs were may not have been avoidable or your fault at all. The reason I did not clean the complete screen was that the spot cleaning left no viable clean spot so I guess it is not really ready for a bath!
 

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That's what I'm afraid of. I still have not mustered the courage to try cleaning it. I just live with the small anomalies. I wish that DaLite still made the material. That way, if it did not go well, there is a plan "B". It's a testament to how great the HP is that I would rather live with a few small stains then go to something else...
I feel exactly the same. I used the distilled water method on the full screen and alcohol on a food spot and I've ended with a 1/2" mark in the lower half of the screen and light streaking in large areas of the screen visible on pure white scenes but it's still worth it.

There is NOTHING as good as the late, great original 2.8 Highpower...
 

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There is NOTHING as good as the late, great original 2.8 Highpower...
Anyone who ever had one knows how true that is. There's a tremendous market for any company which would resurrect it. I still can not understand why no one does. In addition to so many optical advantages, for over a decade it was one of the cheapest and most durable materials available. The 2.4 on the other hand, was extremely fragile and prone to production problems.

As I've argued many times: It CAN be manufactured again. There must be a patent on file (which by now must be public domain). It was manufactured beginning around 20 years ago. It was made in a factory - on machines - not in a cave by magic elves.

Regarding cleaning: The 2.8 and 2.4 are entirely different. The 2.4 surface is very fragile and prone to damage. The 2.8 surface is extremely forgiving. On my 2.8 I've tried many cleaning agents to spot clean insects and never did any damage. Start with the safest (water) and work your way up the ladder. Always test in one of the corners. Don't ever use anything abrasive, and be sure the cleaner will not leave any residue.

Cleaning large areas is more difficult for the following reason: Over time, the surface gets covered with a layer of very fine dust. When you clean large areas it is very difficult to completely remove this dust from the entire surface evenly. Unless you can remove this dust perfectly uniformly, you're usually left with some streaking. This is usually only visible on large very bright fields.

Pip
 

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Anyone who ever had one knows how true that is. There's a tremendous market for any company which would resurrect it.

Pip
For one time buys.. think about it, how long did you have the 2.8.. Most say I would never part with it.. An the masses want to be able to see a bright image from the sides as well as just the 2 seats in front of the lens. I will never part with mine and have a smaller one as backup.. but I can understand why it is no longer manufactured.. Current projectors have ample light for larger screen sizes.
 

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For one time buys.. think about it, how long did you have the 2.8.. Most say I would never part with it.. An the masses want to be able to see a bright image from the sides as well as just the 2 seats in front of the lens. I will never part with mine and have a smaller one as backup.. but I can understand why it is no longer manufactured.. Current projectors have ample light for larger screen sizes.
Doug:

I agree with all but your final conclusion. I think now more than ever, this material could capture a huge share of the screen market. It’s extreme durability and high gain make it a natural for the presentation market. Due to the vast expansion of the DIY market in home theater, it’s benefits and value for us would be more appreciated than ever. For anyone other than dedicated bat cave installations, it has tremendous advantages: Retroreflective means superb ambient light rejection. It doesn’t reflect any light to or from adjacent walls or ceilings. Retroreflective also means no need for tensioning for drop down applications. It is high gain with absolutely no hot spotting. And regarding brightness, unless you have seating beyond the sides of the screen, even with a ceiling install, the image is still brighter than anything 1.3 or less. I've had many screens up side by side in my non-dedicated room.

Pip
 

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I called Da-lite and they recommended denatured alcohol diluted 1 to 5ish with water, IIRC. It worked great for my electric 133" 2.8.


I will probably sell mine when I go AT down the road. I am not a 3d guy and the new pj's are quite bit brighter than my old jvc. But for now it is nice to never have to worry about a dim picture. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I called Da-lite and they recommended denatured alcohol diluted 1 to 5ish with water, IIRC. It worked great for my electric 133" 2.8.


I will probably sell mine when I go AT down the road. I am not a 3d guy and the new pj's are quite bit brighter than my old jvc. But for now it is nice to never have to worry about a dim picture. :)
HI GCN,
Can you describe the exact procedure you used to clean your 2.8?
BTW, you are one of the few AVSers I have seen from our neck of the woods. In fact, you are just up the road from us. If you are ever in Duck country, give me a PM. :)
 

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HI GCN,
Can you describe the exact procedure you used to clean your 2.8?
BTW, you are one of the few AVSers I have seen from our neck of the woods. In fact, you are just up the road from us. If you are ever in Duck country, give me a PM. :)
Go Ducks! :)


Since I had never cleaned my screen in the 5+ years I had had it, at that point, I first gently wiped it down with a wet, soft towel. Then wiped it down again with the diluted denatured alcohol, then with a clean, water only towel and then a very light drying with a dry towel to get the excess water off. Since it is electric and only down when in use I did not realize that just a little dust residue can add up over the years and get distributed as splotches on the screen when it rolls up and down - again over the years. Anywho, it cleans up very easily and after 30 minutes, or so, is completely dry.


I find the 2.8 is fairly durable to clean you just don't want to bend or crease the screen as that breaks the micro beads. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Go Ducks! :)


Since I had never cleaned my screen in the 5+ years I had had it, at that point, I first gently wiped it down with a wet, soft towel. Then wiped it down again with the diluted denatured alcohol, then with a clean, water only towel and then a very light drying with a dry towel to get the excess water off. Since it is electric and only down when in use I did not realize that just a little dust residue can add up over the years and get distributed as splotches on the screen when it rolls up and down - again over the years. Anywho, it cleans up very easily and after 30 minutes, or so, is completely dry.


I find the 2.8 is fairly durable to clean you just don't want to bend or crease the screen as that breaks the micro beads. :)
Did you use a microfiber cloth? Did you wipe in only one direction? Did you use distilled water?
Details? I'm paranoid about trying it and I want to get as much info as possible.
BTW, mine is a 110" 16 x 9 Cosmopolitan Electrol electric drop screen (HP 2.8).
Thanks
 

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Did you use a microfiber cloth? Did you wipe in only one direction? Did you use distilled water?
Details? I'm paranoid about trying it and I want to get as much info as possible.
BTW, mine is a 110" 16 x 9 Cosmopolitan Electrol electric drop screen (HP 2.8).
Thanks
Ha, I can tell. You do sound paranoid. :)


I just used regular water and LIGHTLY wiped back and forth with a very wet, soft towel. Microfiber would be even better. My thinking was not scrubbing whatever dust may be on there but dislodging it with fluid, which is why I did not towel to complete dry.


I have the 133" cosmo electric.
 
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