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Discussion Starter · #1 ·

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I live in Topeka and plan on rebuilding my 4T's with curved walls, so I won't have any use for my current enclosures. But that likely won't be till next summer depending on how busy I am with school, work, and remodeling.


Oh, they have the MF/HF driver orientation for the MKII version, not the SE.
http://clearwave.forumotion.net/t108...namic-4t-mk2-s
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrrame /forum/post/20788133


I just stumbled upon Clearwave site, and found the DIY part very interesting.


However, I haven't done any sort of wood work and have no tools, (Well, I have a hand held hack saw
)


Just want to know if anybody in Norther VA would be interested in building these speakers.

If you want to DIY, you could always have a flat pack wood kit done on a CNC. Several of my customers have gone this route as well. All you would need then is glue and clamps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jed K. /forum/post/20789701


If you want to DIY, you could always have a flat pack wood kit done on a CNC. Several of my customers have gone this route as well. All you would need then is glue and clamps.

Can you please elaborate on this one. Does it mean, I have to take the mdf's some where to cut according to dimensions?

or

I get precut MDF's along with the drivers?


Thanks
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrrame /forum/post/20790477


Can you please elaborate on this one. Does it mean, I have to take the mdf's some where to cut according to dimensions?

or

I get precut MDF's along with the drivers?


Thanks

You would take the plans to a local cabinet making shop and have them cut the wood for you, per the plans.

Doesn't have to be a cabinet making shop, but I would start with them first.

Probably looking at a couple hundred or so to have a normal shop cut the wood.

They will want to use their own wood, which you will pay a little over Home Depot prices for.


Or you can contact the website where CNC operators with down-time offer their services for a discounted rate. But then you have to pay shipping on the wood panels. I'm not sure what the website is.


Then again, you could just spend $100 on an electric saw and straight edge to cut your own wood. Plus another $50 for jigsaw for holes & glue & a bit more for stain...

I'd go this route. Since DIY is addictive for some people. So this way is more interesting & cheaper in the long run.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrrame /forum/post/20790477


Can you please elaborate on this one. Does it mean, I have to take the mdf's some where to cut according to dimensions?

or

I get precut MDF's along with the drivers?


Thanks

I have some contacts of people that would cut all the wood panels and holes for the drivers on a CNC and ship it to you. Email me if you would like their email addresses.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jed K. /forum/post/20791168


I have some contacts of people that would cut all the wood panels and holes for the drivers on a CNC and ship it to you. Email me if you would like their email addresses.

Thanks. Sent you an email.
 

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Never heard the Monitor 11 .v6. If I had to "bench race" 'em, I'd put my money on the 4T being the better speaker. Oh wait, I did do that, so I guess I took a leap of faith having not heard the Monitor 11's prior to buying the 4T kit?
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Looneybomber /forum/post/0


Never heard the Monitor 11 .v6. If I had to "bench race" 'em, I'd put my money on the 4T being the better speaker. Oh wait, I did do that, so I guess I took a leap of faith having not heard the Monitor 11's prior to buying the 4T kit?

It seems like your paying a premium for

The speakers thru that company. Does anyone have a copy of the plans so I can see if other speakers will work? If clearwave would allow you to just purchase the plans and not the speakers from them it would be a better deal.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mpray1983 /forum/post/20796438


It seems like your paying a premium for

The speakers thru that company. Does anyone have a copy of the plans so I can see if other speakers will work? If clearwave would allow you to just purchase the plans and not the speakers from them it would be a better deal.

Dayton 7" woofers on sale right now $296 for eight. I think it's normally around $340.

Tang band 4" mid. $339.28 for four.

Tweeters. $161.50 for two.

Precision ports. $27.80 for two.

Dayton binding posts. $16.96 for two pair.

Sound deadener, screws, wire, crossovers. $???

I could look at my crossovers and itemize the costs, but that's too much of pain.


I'm up to 1003.04 with the sale price listed above, plus the $???. Crossovers are at least $150-175/pair.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Looneybomber /forum/post/20796591


Crossovers are at least $150-175/pair.

Crossovers are around $300 for the pair because they use Mundorf resistors and matrix boards, Solen caps with no electroylics anywhere, and high quality inductors. Upgrades in the crossover are available at the price in retail/difference. So, as you can see from the total above, the kit is really the sum of the parts you'd pay PE and Madisound-- actually probably a little bit less.


There is a free download if anyone wants to see the cabinet construction ahead of time. Just click on the pdf links.


Regards,


Jed
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mpray1983 /forum/post/20796608


Seems to be a great deal then

It's supposed to be the price we'd pay for all the parts, but we get the labor of assembling the crossover for free. How Jed can make money is he gets the parts cheaper than we can, which pays for his R&D, labor, and shipping to us.


Jed beat me by seconds...
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jed K. /forum/post/20796668


Crossovers are around $300 (my cost) for the pair

I knew I was going to be undershooting the cost of them (hence the "at least" comment), but I didn't know it was going to be that much.


Side note: The crossovers can be upgraded with Clarity caps and Mills resistors if you ask...and pay more. But I believe they come on PCB's now instead of the MDF as shown (basic kit shown on PCB's). Maybe Jed will confirm.

You can also get silver coated wire (not shown).

 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Trying to figure out what option would work best for me.


What tools do I need to cut the mdf?


Any recommendation for saw's, clamps, drills etc ?
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrrame /forum/post/0


Trying to figure out what option would work best for me.


What tools do I need to cut the mdf?


Any recommendation for saw's, clamps, drills etc ?

I recommend as many clamps as you can afford. If you can get 12 per box that should do it. I would suggest pipe clamps with 1/2 diameter piping works well. Table saws are the best but a skill saw with a guide will also work. You also need a good router with 1/4 straight bits, and flush trim bits. I also like using a roundover bit 1/2" for my edges and circles. I use a nail gun rather than a drill because it's just way easier, you can use a drill and course thread screws tho. You may want to read as many build threads as you can to see how this works. Before you start.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrrame /forum/post/20802774


Trying to figure out what option would work best for me.


What tools do I need to cut the mdf?


Any recommendation for saw's, clamps, drills etc ?

I used a jig saw, circular saw, drill, and router. I also used as much weight as I had sitting around because I didn't have many clamps. You could get by without the circular saw or jig saw, but not both. A router with a circle jig, 1/4" up spiral bit, and flush trim bit are essential.

http://clearwave.forumotion.net/t108...namic-4t-mk2-s
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Looneybomber /forum/post/20803575


I used a jig saw, circular saw, drill, and router. I also used as much weight as I had sitting around because I didn't have many clamps. You could get by without the circular saw or jig saw, but not both. A router with a circle jig, 1/4" up spiral bit, and flush trim bit are essential.

http://clearwave.forumotion.net/t108...namic-4t-mk2-s

Thanks. Just checked your thread, The woofers in your picture look different than what I see in CLD Site. Did you upgrade?



from CLD
 
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