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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello!

I’m in the process of renovating my house and am planning to turn my basement rec room into a dedicated home theatre room. I used an acoustical calculator to figure out the optimal dimensions based on my anticipated ceiling height (8’) and the output was room dimensions of approximately 12’8” x 18’6”. My rec room is about ~13’ wide by ~19’ long - pretty close!

The theatre will be in the basement of a two level house. The kitchen is directly above. Two side walls will be exterior, another shared with a guest room and the fourth shared with a mud room. Everything is gutted at the moment. Ive attached our house layout.

#1. Soundproofing
A key item for me is to incorporate effective sound transfer control mitigation measures into the design. I have 2 subs (SVS PB 2000s) and intend on having 4 sub eventually (want to build two "Martys") - I like deep bass...

Based on my research, the soundproofing plan for the HT room and the adjacent guest room is to use Safe n Sound insulation within the joist bays covered by 5/8” plywood (for anchoring purposes) then resilient channel (type to be determined) holding two layers of 5/8” drywall adhered using green glue. I am also going to install a sound “kill box” in the HVAC runs into the theatre. Only one window (will install a window block). There will be a small room between the main house and the HT room area that will assist with managing sound leakage past the main HT door. Both doord will be fully sealed. Lighting will be via wall sconces. Nothing through the ceiling except the projector outlet and cable throughport (need to think this one through).

Any thoughts on other considerations related to managing sound transfer? Should this be sufficient to hold back most of the bass noise?

#2 Speaker layout.

I have a Yamaha 2070 w 9 channels. I currently have a 5.2.2 speaker system that could be 7.2.0 (my two ATMOS speakers (SVS Prime Elevations) could be used as rear surrounds).

I can add two more speakers to my system, so in the absence of buying another amp to power a 7.2.4 system (optimal), what do you suggest is better for an immersive surround sound experience, 5.2.4 or 7.2.2?

There are so many different speaker layouts with F or R presence speakers, overheads etc. I’m in a bit of analysis-paralysis on layout at the moment as it relates to where I run speaker wire. I don’t want to regret anything once the drywall goes on!

#3 Location of Components

It seems that most HT rooms that I see online have their components outside of the room or at the back. I have had mine at the front, as it seems to make sense for line of sight control, being able to observe active audio codecs, volume etc on the AVR. Also, I have little kids and the low component shelf helps keep dirty hands off of the very expensive fixed projector screen!

Anything I missing here that should compel me to relocate my components to the back? A back corner would take out a logical subwoofer spot. Need to run all my cables now!

Suggestions would be much appreciated!

Thanks!

Trevor
 

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Hello!

I’m in the process of renovating my house and am planning to turn my basement rec room into a dedicated home theatre room. I used an acoustical calculator to figure out the optimal dimensions based on my anticipated ceiling height (8’) and the output was room dimensions of approximately 12’8” x 18’6”. My rec room is about ~13’ wide by ~19’ long - pretty close!

The theatre will be in the basement of a two level house. The kitchen is directly above. Two side walls will be exterior, another shared with a guest room and the fourth shared with a mud room. Everything is gutted at the moment. Ive attached our house layout.

#1. Soundproofing
A key item for me is to incorporate effective sound transfer control mitigation measures into the design. I have 2 subs (SVS PB 2000s) and intend on having 4 sub eventually (want to build two "Martys") - I like deep bass...

Based on my research, the soundproofing plan for the HT room and the adjacent guest room is to use Safe n Sound insulation within the joist bays covered by 5/8” plywood (for anchoring purposes) then resilient channel (type to be determined) holding two layers of 5/8” drywall adhered using green glue. I am also going to install a sound “kill box” in the HVAC runs into the theatre. Only one window (will install a window block). There will be a small room between the main house and the HT room area that will assist with managing sound leakage past the main HT door. Both doord will be fully sealed. Lighting will be via wall sconces. Nothing through the ceiling except the projector outlet and cable throughport (need to think this one through).

Any thoughts on other considerations related to managing sound transfer? Should this be sufficient to hold back most of the bass noise?

#2 Speaker layout.

I have a Yamaha 2070 w 9 channels. I currently have a 5.2.2 speaker system that could be 7.2.0 (my two ATMOS speakers (SVS Prime Elevations) could be used as rear surrounds).

I can add two more speakers to my system, so in the absence of buying another amp to power a 7.2.4 system (optimal), what do you suggest is better for an immersive surround sound experience, 5.2.4 or 7.2.2?

There are so many different speaker layouts with F or R presence speakers, overheads etc. I’m in a bit of analysis-paralysis on layout at the moment as it relates to where I run speaker wire. I don’t want to regret anything once the drywall goes on!

#3 Location of Components

It seems that most HT rooms that I see online have their components outside of the room or at the back. I have had mine at the front, as it seems to make sense for line of sight control, being able to observe active audio codecs, volume etc on the AVR. Also, I have little kids and the low component shelf helps keep dirty hands off of the very expensive fixed projector screen!

Anything I missing here that should compel me to relocate my components to the back? A back corner would take out a logical subwoofer spot. Need to run all my cables now!

Suggestions would be much appreciated!

Thanks!

Trevor

If you put plywood on the joists and clip and channel on the plywood, you're going to create a triple leaf effect, which will degrade the soundproofing performance. If you want plywood, it gets suspended on clip and channel, as the first of two (or if you want three) layers. https://www.soundproofingcompany.com/soundproofing_101/triple-leaf-effect


And you're going to want hat channel, not resilient channel.
 
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I 've worked on dozens of theater projects and the only time plywood was useful was to hang a heavy coffered ceiling. What is unique about this project? two layers of 5/8 is preffered.
Also I wouldn't put a double door to a guest room/bedroom I'd put the bedroom entrance off the hall. Better sound isolation, better theater acoustics, Maybe you don't plan on using that bedroom as a bedroom but you should consider future resale value. You need to put closets in your floor plan. Also draw out the layout of the theater space to scale showing screen, seating and speaker placement before you commit to the plan. Double doors opening into a theater room can often limit seating configurations.
 

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#2 Speaker layout.

I have a Yamaha 2070 w 9 channels. I currently have a 5.2.2 speaker system that could be 7.2.0 (my two ATMOS speakers (SVS Prime Elevations) could be used as rear surrounds).

I can add two more speakers to my system, so in the absence of buying another amp to power a 7.2.4 system (optimal), what do you suggest is better for an immersive surround sound experience, 5.2.4 or 7.2.2?

There are so many different speaker layouts with F or R presence speakers, overheads etc. I’m in a bit of analysis-paralysis on layout at the moment as it relates to where I run speaker wire. I don’t want to regret anything once the drywall goes on!
5.2.4 is superior to 7.2.2 - the rear surrounds add a tiny bit to the experience but 4 atmos speakers adds a whole lot :)


I would pre-wire for 7.2.6 - I have just added a pair of Atmos speakers to make mine a .6 and it has filled in a hole I didn't even know was there. Ths was done by simply daisy chaining a 2nd Atmos AVR via HDMI and using it to power just the 2 Top Middle speakers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I 've worked on dozens of theater projects and the only time plywood was useful was to hang a heavy coffered ceiling. What is unique about this project? two layers of 5/8 is preffered.
Also I wouldn't put a double door to a guest room/bedroom I'd put the bedroom entrance off the hall. Better sound isolation, better theater acoustics, Maybe you don't plan on using that bedroom as a bedroom but you should consider future resale value. You need to put closets in your floor plan. Also draw out the layout of the theater space to scale showing screen, seating and speaker placement before you commit to the plan. Double doors opening into a theater room can often limit seating configurations.

Thanks for all the responses!

Hat channel is the term I was searching for. Thanks!

In terms of plywood, I wanted to build in an anchoring surface for my projector and also for surface mounted (on ceiling) ATMOS speakers. I suppose I can do so in between the joist bays over top of the insulation. Any other suggestions?

The guest room will also be an office and the whole area may be subject to kids playing. I had to be multipurpose to some degree. I am going to reload at the entry way. It could save us a lot of $$ on soundproofing!

I’ll work on my theater layout plan. That’s a good suggestion.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
#2 Speaker layout.

I have a Yamaha 2070 w 9 channels. I currently have a 5.2.2 speaker system that could be 7.2.0 (my two ATMOS speakers (SVS Prime Elevations) could be used as rear surrounds).

I can add two more speakers to my system, so in the absence of buying another amp to power a 7.2.4 system (optimal), what do you suggest is better for an immersive surround sound experience, 5.2.4 or 7.2.2?

There are so many different speaker layouts with F or R presence speakers, overheads etc. I’️m in a bit of analysis-paralysis on layout at the moment as it relates to where I run speaker wire. I don’️t want to regret anything once the drywall goes on!
5.2.4 is superior to 7.2.4 - the rear surrounds add a tiny bit to the experience but 4 atmos speakers adds a whole lot /forum/images/smilies/smile.gif


I would pre-wire for 7.2.6 - I have just added a pair of Atmos speakers to make mine a .6 and it has filled in a hole I didn't even know was there. Ths was done by simply daisy chaining a 2nd Atmos AVR via HDMI and using it to power just the 2 Top Middle speakers.
Thanks for your feedback on speaker layout. Really wrestling with this. I read an article about ATMOS and the actual content on the ATMOS track for the vast majority of movies is actually quite limited. Sounds awesome on demos though! A lot of other content seems to get picked up which does add to the immersive feeling.

I guess what I was wondering is if I will hear more of the movie soundtrack w 7 speaker surround w 2 ATMOS vs 5 surround and 4 ATMOS speakers. Essentially what is my (sound) return on (speaker) investment. I think that makes sense. Your recommendation is pretty emphatic so I’m going to go with that for now!

I’ll work on my layout and post it for comment.
 

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Thanks for your feedback on speaker layout. Really wrestling with this. I read an article about ATMOS and the actual content on the ATMOS track for the vast majority of movies is actually quite limited. Sounds awesome on demos though! A lot of other content seems to get picked up which does add to the immersive feeling.

I guess what I was wondering is if I will hear more of the movie soundtrack w 7 speaker surround w 2 ATMOS vs 5 surround and 4 ATMOS speakers. Essentially what is my (sound) return on (speaker) investment. I think that makes sense. Your recommendation is pretty emphatic so I’m going to go with that for now!

I’ll work on my layout and post it for comment.
I just edited my previous post :


5.2.4 is superior to 7.2.4 - the rear surrounds add a tiny bit to the experience but 4 atmos speakers adds a whole lot

Should have read :


5.2.4 is superior to 7.2.2 - the rear surrounds add a tiny bit to the experience but 4 atmos speakers adds a whole lot

If you search you will find this is the general consensus so definitely a good decision to with x.x.4 :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
5.2.4 is superior to 7.2.4 - the rear surrounds add a tiny bit to the experience but 4 atmos speakers adds a whole lot

Should have read :


5.2.4 is superior to 7.2.2 - the rear surrounds add a tiny bit to the experience but 4 atmos speakers adds a whole lot

If you search you will find this is the general consensus so definitely a good decision to with x.x.4 [IMGclass=inlineimg]/forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif[/IMG]


Ok that makes sense.

7.4.4 is my goal... one day!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Glad to see another local avs theater going up! Im in Pitt Meadows myself

Just up the road! Great to hear there are other enthusiasts in the area. I feel like there are very few people I talk to that have any interest in this hobby!

I’m going to post my layout shortly. Just pulled down a fire place today. Not fun...
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Attached is a draft version of my room layout. It needs a few adjustments, but in the interest of time, I wanted to post what I have.

A few key points:

My front and rear speakers will likely be mounted about 48” and 55” off the ground respectively. A little higher than ideal, but I need to keep them out reach of little fingers. I found swivel mounts that allow me to adjust the position of the speaker so I can toe in and slightly down. Worked well in my last theatre.

My center channel will be positioned on the leading edge of the component shelf (positioned right under the screen). I suppose I could put the component shelf at the rear of the room, but I need something to act as a barrier to kids putting their popcorn fingers on my screen!

Importantly, I will be using SVS Prime Elevation speakers for the ATMOS arrangement. These speakers are meant to fire on an angle, so I’m trying to figure out the best location and orientation to mount them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
FWIW your seating looks awfully close to center of the room which tends to be a no no, can put the listeners in a null
Great point. The sofa should be basically under the projector. I think I am going to get a bigger screen so I will be able to move the projector back anyway (Optoma is fairly quiet, but don't like having it directly overhead!).

I'm also re-thinking my ATMOS speaker layout. I am using the SVS Prime Elevations which fire on an angle regardless of how you mount them. I'm thinking of mounting them on the wall (fore and aft of the sofa) so they down fire around the MLP.
 
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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
Any thoughts on the layout attached above? It’s pretty rough, but hopefully it gets the point across.

To soundproof the cable pass throughs I plan to use a standard junction box (not a low voltage insert) surrounded w putty pads and stuffed w insulation, then a cable outlet face plate. Anyone have any improvements to this?

I am going to run PVC conduit for the projector HDMI cable and will stuff the ends with insulation to help prevent sound transfer.

I’m planning to have my Panomax power conditioner supply power to ALL components, the projector and the subs (currently two). This will require a bunch of wall inlets (as opposed to outlets) behind my components shelf.

No one has commented yet re my question on the location of the component shelf!

I’d really appreciate some comments on this: My room shrunk a bit in length and will now be 18.6’ x 13.6’ x 8’. From my research, the optimal dimensions for a room w an 8’ ceiling are 18.6’ x 12.8’. I really want the space to perform well acoustically. Is my room width being 10” wider going to affect the acoustics significantly?

EDIT: What is the best room dimension calculator? I tried the Amroc Room Mode Calculator and found my dimensions are w/in the Bolt Area. Not sure if I can trust this tool??
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Feel like I’m talking to myself here. Am I posting in the right section?

I have a lot of questions. And also want to provide value to this community!!
 

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To soundproof the cable pass throughs I plan to use a standard junction box (not a low voltage insert) surrounded w putty pads and stuffed w insulation, then a cable outlet face plate. Anyone have any improvements to this?

I am going to run PVC conduit for the projector HDMI cable and will stuff the ends with insulation to help prevent sound transfer.

I’m planning to have my Panomax power conditioner supply power to ALL components, the projector and the subs (currently two). This will require a bunch of wall inlets (as opposed to outlets) behind my components shelf.

No one has commented yet re my question on the location of the component shelf!

Yes box with puttly pads, Make sure you use the gray electrical conduit with sweeping curves, not found in the plumbing section.

Make sure you aren't overloading your panomax and starving your amps for peak demands.

Where were you proposing to place your component shelf, best practice is outside the theater, second best is out of sight inside the theater.

As for room size calculators . I've usually felt there were two deadly sins. Having any dimension a multiple or identical to another, placing your listening position in a bass null. Everything else is relatively inconsequential and can be addressed with calibration. I don't see a problem with 10 extra inches.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Thanks BIG. Very helpful and timely!

I have been deliberating placement of the AV components quite a bit and need to make a decision quickly (need to wrap up electrical).

I could put the components in the adjacent room, but my wife doesn’t want to give up the space. She really wants the components at the back or front of the theater. Putting them in another room just seems to add a layer of complication that I’m not clear is necessary for me.

If I were to put the components in the adjacent room (on the right side), would I need to ensure that my speaker wire lengths were the same to all matched speakers? It strikes me that having my left front or rear speaker with 20’ more cable could affect the speaker performance(?).

Can you please say more about overloading the Panomax? How would I know if this is the case? I had planned on running all my components (AVR, blueray, projector, cable box and subs) through the Panomax (which would be connected to a dedicated circuit). This is a big part of my wiring scheme at the moment, particularly pulling the projector power back through the Panomax.
 

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She really wants the components at the back or front of the theater. Putting them in another room just seems to add a layer of complication that I’m not clear is necessary for me.
If you're planning on having 4 subwoofers you're going to need external amps, which means more noise and heat. If you can convince your wife to give up a little extra space to put the rack outside the theater I think she'll be thankful later.

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
 

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Any reason why you are not doing an AT screen wall?

Do you really need to design around speakers you already own? I see a lot of people doing this (I did it myself) and it ends up being a huge regret and ends up compromising the design...

Adding pocket doors means that whole wall will not have proper isolation and no room for running wires up and down the wall for speakers/outlets. I would advise you put the door to that room in the hallway as BIG had mentioned earlier.

Another thing I would do is wire the room for 7.x.4 so you can upgrade your receiver in the future or just buy something for the space instead of designing a space for old equipment.

If you would like help with CAD DWG's I can do that for you.


Chris
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
If you're planning on having 4 subwoofers you're going to need external amps, which means more noise and heat. If you can convince your wife to give up a little extra space to put the rack outside the theater I think she'll be thankful later.

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
Thanks for this. I just want to confirm the need for external amps... is that related to having too many subwoofers on the Panomax or my previous reference to adding two DYI subs? The two subs I have now are internally amplified, so I don't think they have much draw. I had all the components in my last theater up front and they weren't noisy or overly hot. Still wrestling with the pros/cons of remote AV rack. I've tried to search for threads that talk about it and not much available.


Any reason why you are not doing an AT screen wall?

Do you really need to design around speakers you already own? I see a lot of people doing this (I did it myself) and it ends up being a huge regret and ends up compromising the design...

Adding pocket doors means that whole wall will not have proper isolation and no room for running wires up and down the wall for speakers/outlets. I would advise you put the door to that room in the hallway as BIG had mentioned earlier.

Another thing I would do is wire the room for 7.x.4 so you can upgrade your receiver in the future or just buy something for the space instead of designing a space for old equipment.

If you would like help with CAD DWG's I can do that for you.


Chris
I like the idea of an AT wall and could do it my speakers are PERFECT for it. My only concern is compromising my audio or video quality. I don't my conventional placement of speakers and am not too caught up in having an authentic theater experience. BUT I like the idea of being able to more optimally place my speakers (behind the screen).

I'm am certainly designing around what I have (as it works well for the moment), but am all ears on what I should do to future proof the space. I do plan on running the wires of 7.X.4. That is a great suggestion.

The pocket doors are already there. They are staying. I was able to get $5k of extra bass proofing and new center channel and a dedicated theater, but doors have to stay. As a result of the doors, we had to sound proof the WHOLE guest room. As does the entry way configuration - stays as planned. I figure I'm still pretty fortunate :rolleyes:

Running wires is easy. The whole basement is down to studs. Fortunately the doors are in a location that shouldn't be needed for speaker placement and I'll add an acoustic curtain in front of them and equally over the window on the opposite side.

Pm'd you re drawings!
 
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