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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
MAINS:
Oem QSC 2150s not clones bought for a really good deal off avs member cdy2179

SURROUNDS,REARS,ATMOS:

10 VOLT LX . I already had 2 in ported boxes that I bought from a local avs member and loved the sound. The rest were bought new from diysoundgroup.com

PROJECTOR:

Jvc rs 400 bought during the preorder from avscience also just ordered a chief rpma mount from them. Plugged in just to make sure everything worked fine. Was amazed the picture it produced on just a white wall. Happy JVC came out with a projector with more lumens to do the screen size I wanted.

AVR:

Going with the denon 5200 or 6200 or the Marantz 7009 or 7010



SCREEN:

165" 16:9 center stage xd acoustically transparent material . I'm going to be building my own frame out of 1x4s.

AMPS:

2 xbs fp20000 watt 240v clones

SUBS:

4 submaximus v3 horns with bc21ds115s 21s and 2 devastor horns loaded with 18 sound 21s

ACOUSTICS:

1.5 " LINACOUSTIC RC for side walls . 1" for baffle wall and front wall. 2" on rear wall and front face of bar. Most likely 8 2x4 BAD panels

WALL COVERINGS:

acoustimac castle suede in Ruby and Dmd black. I wanted to do all dmd but they didn't have the colors that me or my wife liked and acoustimac reassured us that the dmd is only 6 percent more transparent.

CARPET:

Looked at a ton of carpet ended up going with Shaws caress line carpet style is appreciation. There's a picture on the second page only difference is were going with the black and grey.

LIGHTING:

3 zone grafik eye.this will control main lights and soffit lights . I'm still not sure what to do with third zone. The risers lips will have led strip lighting installed underneath each of them. 12 to 14 uv lights for star ceiling. These will be controlled off a light switch next to the grafik eye

BAR:

the wife wanted something flashy for the bar top so we're going to use a backsplash tile that is pictured also on page 2 plus I'm going to be doing accents behind the bar with brushed alluminum the face will be done in dmd black with theater name which is still to be determined embroidered in dmd material








Just went and bought all the wood and drywall to start my home theater. Ceilings are 16 foot cathedral but am dropping to 10 foot. With a 10 inch soffit or possibly a light tray soffit similar to the bacon theater build. Room probably isn't going to be soundproofed. Room dimensions are 32x18 unfinished. My plan is to do 1 set of 3 recliners in the front and a set of 4 on the first riser . The second riser will have a 10 foot bar behind it. Front wall will be a false wall with a 150 in AT screen. All speakers will be bought from diysoundgroup exception for the 4 siht18s in marty sub boxes. Projector is a jvc rs400 which should be here Monday.
 

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RETIRED theater builder
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Wonderful blank canvas.

the back bar can be on the same level as the second row, if it is a normal 42 inch tall bar height, the lower you keep the back bar the better surround sound for money seats. You could make the entire riser taller than needed because you have so much headroom. Not sure I would come down to 10, maybe 11.

One of my favorite theaters had a 24 inch riser and I think a 12 ft ceiling. Swizzle stick in my signature. If you are planning on using the riser as bass absorber the taller the better.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Big it's funny you mention that I was going through a bunch of your builds and seen the higher riser. I definitely like the idea of using the riser as a bass absorber . What is all involved in turning the riser into a bass absorber
 

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Discussion Starter #5
My biggest worry about going taller than 10 is the wall the screen is going on has the sub panel box on it. That will be a 3 foot out false wall which would put the wall right at 10 foot if I go higher my room size keeps getting a little smaller which isn't that big a deal for me . Im just not sure how to make the room look good in the back where the one window is because we're the ceiling meets the back part cathedral I'll have a few foot still showing of the cathedral. Can't think of any way to not have it like that without building another wall at the back
 

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I definitely like the idea of using the riser as a bass absorber . What is all involved in turning the riser into a bass absorber
It is easy and actually more economical then some other designs.

Basically you build the riser so that it is all one connected air space, fill with cheap fiberglass insulation and add vents on the top near the side and rear walls.

Specifics: lets say you are building a 12 inch tall riser, use 2x12s for the perimeter but use 2x10s or 8s for the internal stringers leaving 2-4 inch air gap across the entire bottom. Fill with batt insulation. Cut in 4 inch by 36 to 48 inch vents where the side walls meet the riser top and two along the back wall. I add mid span supports so it doesn't get bouncy and 2-3 layers of decking with Green Glue between layers.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
thanks BIG for the advice it's crazy how much I've learned in the short time being on this forum
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Also the waf is coming into play on the taller 2 foot riser she likes the 2 step more. If I do the 2 step does only the bottom riser that's along the floor need to be 4 inched off the ground
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Good luck. I look forward to some pics. A nice big room like yours will be a ton of work, especially if you have not done stuff like this before. But, when you are done you won't want to leave the room.... ever.
Yeah this is my first time ever doing anything like this I'm just trying to soak up everybody's advice.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I definitely like the idea of using the riser as a bass absorber . What is all involved in turning the riser into a bass absorber
It is easy and actually more economical then some other designs.

Basically you build the riser so that it is all one connected air space, fill with cheap fiberglass insulation and add vents on the top near the side and rear walls.

Specifics: lets say you are building a 12 inch tall riser, use 2x12s for the perimeter but use 2x10s or 8s for the internal stringers leaving 2-4 inch air gap across the entire bottom. Fill with batt insulation. Cut in 4 inch by 36 to 48 inch vents where the side walls meet the riser top and two along the back wall. I add mid span supports so it doesn't get bouncy and 2-3 layers of decking with Green Glue between layers.
Also will the front board of the riser be a 2x12
 

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I think that your space is amazing. Looking at the ceiling, to me, it begs to be finished with the open expansive height and not covered up. It reminds me of many historical theaters that have an extremely high ceiling that is painted like the sky, or even just painted black. A great example is the Fox Theatre in Atlanta, shown in the photo below that I found with a quick Internet search. If you build a soffit around the perimeter of the ceiling to help hide the corners, and paint it a dark color, the ceiling would almost disappear from view. It would probably be a lot cheaper and easier to build it that way than having to frame in a lowered ceiling. You wouldn't need to do anything like the "old fashioned" look in the Fox Theatre. It works with any style, even ultra modern. There are plenty of home theaters with dark ceilings and night sky images, but with the lights partially on, you still see the ceiling. With a ceiling that high, it would just fade away, giving your theater a wide open expansive feel.


 

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Discussion Starter #16
Sorry for no updates been a busy week at work . I haven't got to work on the theater to much this week . Me and my father in law plan to have the lowered ceiling in by this weekend. My initial plan was to leave the ceiling in cathedral and do the soffit around but after looking at tons of home theaters I just prefer the flat look better.Also I feel like acoustically it would be less challenging to make a flat ceiling right than a cathedral. Don't get me wrong I do love cathedral ceilings most of the rest of the house is cathedral ceilings. Im just not sure about it in the theater
 
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