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Keep in mind that all sensors are calibrated themselves - even the spendy ones require this to keep a NIST tag. Some of the better sensors have multiple calibration tables dependent on usage.


So YMMV truly applies. While Tom finds his Spyder2 with the LCD filter was the worst- I found my prototype without the LCD filter used on-lens was dithering to the ten thousandth xy place compared to the very spendy $$K Konica Minolta and it measures high contrasts and deep colors very accurately the way I calibrate. The person who let me borrow it uses it professionally and they had retagged it just recently to their lab spectro - and they retag it quite frequently as they use it for display production. You can be sure I pack it with dessicant and knock on wood everytime I use it though! The point is the spendy KM is going to fair just as badly in such comparisons if it is not kept tagged.


So comparisons like this are rarely comparisons of the sensor itself - but how well the OEM calibrated it individually. By design some are more sensitive to drift or more sensitive at blacks or more sensitive at brights once you get past the calibrated sensor problem - and you will have to chose from those tradeoffs. You can buy the spendy KM with the fancy lens- but do you really need a lens for HT calibration?


If you are serious about calibration - then you should buy from OEM vendors that individually calibrate your sensors and will update the calibration every year and replace them if your sensors drifted too far to be calibrated anymore. You likely cannot afford a NIST tag level of service - but this is a happy compromise. Usually those selling the sensors will have spendier equipment to compare it with and tweak if necessary.


You don't get that same support from free spreadsheets and pulling sensors out of retail packs at the photo store or used on fleabay - so don't expect that same accuracy unless you are lucky.
 
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