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Great.

Your results are now better because you have improved your knowledge about adjusting your particular display controls.

You have improved your knowledge about manual calibration by understanding all that useful info you get from multiple ColourSpace charts about how TV controls/settings affect panel performance.

So now you know more stuff about calibration generally ;)
I did follow multiple graphs while doing this last calibration, and this TV seems a little stubborn. D Nice was right about Low end granularity issues. When using that on the High Low, I was getting weird results on the final calibration, so don't touch those. It's weird to me because I was using those on the other program, but it was definitely showing up when using this, but then again, the results are different when using this. I'm going to use Mad Max Fury Road as an example for one of my testing scenes. There is a section where they are driving in the sand and the fire coming out of the cars always looked like they were added post production, they looked weird and fake, but now they actually look like they should naturally be there. It just looks natural now. That was always a problem scene for me. I was pretty excited to see that.
 

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I have a new question about the Sony TV. Should I check for RGB Separation on the TV? I'm starting to use more of the graphs for my calibration now with checking clipping and EOTF Dif in the final stages of 21 point grayscale, making sure they are both on the line before moving on, but I've spoken to Ted about RGB Separation, and even read across different threads about it, but it's been mainly for the LG TVs. I know the Sony's are a little different when it comes to contrast. So again, do I need to check for RGB Separation on the Sony, or just not worry about it?
 

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Did a new 21^3 profiling of the screen,seems like i am missing something out due to the time it took (before around 3.05 and now 3:39) thought the new klein api was to improve the speed.
Klein settings i used:

1. Stabilisation 0.350 sec
2. Intelligent int "unticked"
3. Average low light "unticked"
4.Integration 1.250 sec
5. Extra delay time 0.5 sec
6. Calibration setting "15:blank"


Klein api tid.PNG
Pankake dE.PNG
 

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Drift 15 is not required for any reason to use, and it will not provide any help with any display, its very low value.

<snip>

When you see such a drop, you had a bad read, so the pattern generator you used hasn't generated the patch on time, so meter read something else.

Which pattern generator have you used?
Hi Ted, thank you for the detailed answer.

I used drift 15 because I wanted to make sure the patch sequence I made was good enough.

It was a profile done with the i1D3 during the night, using the ColourSpace pattern generator (the one that opens by clicking with the mouse on a patch in the Profile window) so I don't know what happened. It took 3h 27m 49s to complete. All eco timers, logo removal and other stuff was disabled, so it was not that. I left GSR enabled in the service menu though - I have a feeling the TV is no longer running its automatic panel refresh when you turn it off if GSR is disabled.

I noticed in the past the TV having low luminosity for a while just to suddenly become brighter later, so maybe this is what happened here. Maybe my sequence has a longer series of dark patches and it made the TV enter into that low brightness mode.

I also noticed that ColourSpace sometimes "hangs", but I don't think this is what happened here. For example, if you have two profile windows open, and you do measurements in one, while you start a i1Pro2 calibration in the other, the patch display in the first window halts until the i1Pro2 calibration is done - this is when using the ColourSpace internal pattern generator.

I will look in the measurements file and try to figure out what is the problematic area, as you suggested. Thanks!
 

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For i1Display PRO REV.A-02 and projectors, select BURST Mode 1.5 sec.
Hi Ted,
This is a picture showing my profile run, where I suspect my meter settings - due to the sizer/number of tangents.

20200916 profile.png

Could you clarify the 1.5secs you refer to in your quote? My settings are shown, with the meter attached....but not all options are available. Are he other settings corect?

Its a Rev A.02 - and a Projector.
iD3Pro.png

Thanks,

Wayne.
 

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Did a new 21^3 profiling of the screen,seems like i am missing something out due to the time it took (before around 3.05 and now 3:39)
Did you use a Pre-Roll, and if so what were your settings?
 

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@Ted, I identified the drift measurement with the problem.

It's the drift frame 2193. But I also noticed there is a patch frame 2193. What is the relationship between this patch frame and the drift frame with the same number?

As a side-note, ColourSpace said that it showed 4977 patch frames + 332 drift frames, for a total of 5309 frames.

The previous drift frames had good values (the previous drift frame number was 2177 and the next was 2209), and I'm thinking of removing from the measurements file all the frame patches between 2177 and 2209 as well as the drift frame 2193, instead of doing what you said, just to be safe. Does that make sense?
 

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Sure did 1000p 1sec.
Okay so that would be almost 23 minutes to remove from the total time shown.

Other than that, based on the tests I did over the weekend, a 21^3 should take around 2Hr 45/50 Minutes, although with extra low luma patches in such a large set it is possible that it could be slightly longer than that.

I have here the exact nit levels where the Integration time automatically changes from the maximum you set in the options up to the fastest the Klein can read. I plan to put it all together into an easy to read/understand sheet at some point when I have some time.

I know with the LG OLED optimised 17^3 that most people use it is about 20 minutes quicker with the new settings, and with the 5400 point set Fabio mentioned in his last post, it saves over 25 minutes with the new settings.

When I get chance I will run a 21^3 and see how long it takes here as it was on my “to do list” anyway.
 

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Excellent,the patch set i used is the sofs7 preroll 1000p-profile 21*3-verification 1000p set,guess those was made for 2018 oled,maybe the later patchset 17*3 is better to use even if it has less points?
 

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It's the drift frame 2193. But I also noticed there is a patch frame 2193. What is the relationship between this patch frame and the drift frame with the same number?
Drift Frame "xx" and Patch Frame "xx", just means that the Drift Frame "xx" was measured after the specific Patch Frame "xx". So Drift Frame "1" is measured after Patch Frame "1" (Patch 1 is usually Black) and so on. In your case, Drift Frame 2193 was measured after Patch Frame 2193.

I'm thinking of removing from the measurements file all the frame patches between 2177 and 2209 as well as the drift frame 2193, instead of doing what you said, just to be safe.
There is no need to do this. Enable Tangents in Graph Options and check the CIE Graph and/or the 3D Graphs. If you see any strange tangents that look completely out of place (exceptionally long, lines going in a different direction to the others) then you will know that it from a bad read. You can double click that specific point and either remeasure it or delete that single point from the "Point Info" window that opens.
 
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Excellent,the patch set i used is the sofs7 preroll 1000p-profile 21*3-verification 1000p set,guess those was made for 2018 oled,maybe the later patchset 17*3 is better to use even if it has less points?
The 17^3 that Ted provides to users with the LG OLED profiling instructions are considered the "optimal" patch sequences for all model years. While many of us experiment with different patch sequences, any potential benefits from using them are well within the realms of "diminishing returns".
 

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Excellent,the patch set i used is the sofs7 preroll 1000p-profile 21*3-verification 1000p set,guess those was made for 2018 oled,maybe the later patchset 17*3 is better to use even if it has less points?
I don't use 21^3 sets for a long time now because there are zero benefits compared to the ”small” set I created or the one Ted is sharing for the template users, which I made also.

You can achieve better results and save a lot of time, which is essential, especially for people who do calibrations regularly.
 
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Hi Ted,
This is a picture showing my profile run, where I suspect my meter settings - due to the sizer/number of tangents.

View attachment 3046140

Could you clarify the 1.5secs you refer to in your quote? My settings are shown, with the meter attached....but not all options are available. Are he other settings corect?

Its a Rev A.02 - and a Projector.
View attachment 3046137

Thanks,

Wayne.
You should change the intelligent integration to 1.00 Nit and increase the extra delay to a minimum of 0.5 sec
 
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I don't use 21^3 sets for a long time now because there are zero benefits compared to the ”small” set I created or the one Ted is sharing for the template users, which I made also.

You can achieve better results and save a lot of time, which is essential, especially for people who do calibrations regularly.
Will give the 17*3 a try tomorrow 🤓
 

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You should change the intelligent integration to 1.00 Nit and increase the extra delay to a minimum of 0.5 sec
Thanks, I take it my Integration Time remains at 0.75secs?

btw, I’m not certain these were the Settings when I did that profile, it was a few weeks and an update ago.
 

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Noticed in win apps that the version was Colourspace .750 but when i start the program it showed .773,seems like i have managed to installed it twice some how? had to uninstall it twice .750 and .773 in windows app and then did a new clean .773 installement.

Did a new try with the 17*3 patchset provided from Ted (created my Blackjoker i guess) and timing now seems on par with you guys with 2:09:36 incl 1000p preroll set at 1.1 sec,the verification took 20 min,drifting seems ok and also in angermikis excellent pancake chart creation,panel is an 77C8 with 6500+ hours on it.


17Cube time.PNG
17Cube drift 50.PNG
17Cube verification.PNG
17Cube pancake.PNG
 

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Thanks, I take it my Integration Time remains at 0.75secs?
I believe Ted recommended that in your case with a Rev.A meter and a projector you should set Burst Mode and an Integration time of 1.5 Seconds

For i1Display PRO REV.A-02 and projectors, select BURST Mode 1.5 sec.
 
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I believe Ted recommended that in your case with a Rev.A meter and a projector you should set Burst Mode and an Integration time of 1.5 Seconds
Thanks. I will try the Settings in the attached, should get some time to try a Re-run.
0882F693-4FF8-4E73-AA05-3D1A125977D4.jpeg
 

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Noticed in win apps that the version was Colourspace .750 but when i start the program it showed .773,seems like i have managed to installed it twice some how? had to uninstall it twice .750 and .773 in windows app and then did a new clean .773 installement.

Did a new try with the 17*3 patchset provided from Ted (created my Blackjoker i guess) and timing now seems on par with you guys with 2:09:36 incl 1000p preroll set at 1.1 sec,the verification took 20 min,drifting seems ok and also in angermikis excellent pancake chart creation,panel is an 77C8 with 6500+ hours on it.


View attachment 3046387 View attachment 3046388 View attachment 3046389 View attachment 3046390
As you can see slightly better results and you safe almost 90 minutes
 
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