AVS Forum banner
1 - 20 of 30 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
136 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey Guys,


Does anyone know where i can purchase the round columns or half or quarter rounds like Reuben used in his theater i cannot find anything like them anywhere i live in northeastern pennsylvania if that helps at all.


Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
136 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by daviddeng /forum/post/16954263


thinking out of box, will cut sonotube in half works? how strong these sonotubes, anyone did it before?

I was actually thinking about this to and then just veneering over the tube i guess my biggest question is how would you cut it evenly down the center
 

·
RETIRED theater builder
Joined
·
36,126 Posts
I imagine you could clamp a rigid straight edge to the sonotube and cut it with a jig saw. Leave the first and last few inches intact on the first cut until you complete the other side then go back and finish the first cut. Just use a starter hole for that first cut. That will keep the tube somewhat stable while making the long cuts.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,939 Posts
Very nice, I second where are the step by step. Also go to the ops area of the forum to learn how to imbed the photos.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
349 Posts
Not trying to highjack the thread, but I have a related question. When putting up columns, I see most people's base column is a U shaped and goes up against the wall. How do you scre that in to the wall? If you're luck, once side will be in a stud, but its very possible neither side of the U will be where a stud is. Do I need to plan ahead and make sure I put studs here my columns are?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
136 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Next we have half round the process i did for this is:


First thing i did was measure the outside diameter of the tube with one of those flexible type measuring tapes like they use to measure your waist


it came out to a total of 40 inches.


Next you rip the full round tube on a table saw i just set my fence and stood up cinder blocks along side the fence to give me extra height i need then just keep the tube straight and rip it down the table saw, rememeber since this is a radius the first cut can be anywhere in the tube as long as its straight



Now that you have your first cut you take your measurement from step 1 and divide that in half so in this case 20 inches. So you measure 20" from the first cut on the top and then 20" from the first cut on the bottom of the tube and put a pencil mark. Next snap a chalk line on the 2 marks, then i used a metal straight edge and clamped it 1.5" away from the line (this is to accomadate the fence on my jigsaw) after that is lined up let your jigsaw rip down the line and you now have 2 perfect halves of a sonotube


 

·
Registered
Joined
·
136 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Next you just cut your sonotube to whatever height you want for the top and bottom pretty simple i think.


After that you cut your veneer to size and i used contact cement i applied the cement with a roller to the half round tube and then also to the back of the veneer sheet like it dry for about 20 minutes just until both surfaces are slightly tacky. The next part is critical once those 2 surfaces with the cement mate there is no turning back so make sure everything lines up the way you want or you will be starting from scratch



A trick i used for this is to use regular kraft paper i got at home depot i applied it to the half round tube, aligned the piece of veneer where i wanted it this allows you to be able to move your sheet with it permanetly sticking to the surface. When things are all aligned peel back about 3" of paper and then press on the half round with your veneer roller, now the first 3 " are permanantely stuck, next peel back another 3-4" of paper and press down with the roller and keep using this process until the whole half round is complete. This process worked very well for me for veneering.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
136 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Next step after veneering is to build the back of your box to whatever height you need i made my boxes 18" wide and the side 4" deep i then used a roundover bit on the router to route the sharp corners so that i could wrap the veneer around the boxes without having to cut it this worked well. After the boxes are built its time to veneer i know someone here had a question on how i would attached the box to the wall well i used a couple of strips that i finish nailed across the back so that i could anchor to the wall that you can see in this pic:




My studs are 16" OC so i know i will hit them if you wont hit a stud i would suggest using industrial strength velcro to the back of the box and to the wall.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
136 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
After your light boxes are built and veneered it is time to sand them. I sanded them first with 150 grit followed by 225 grit, after sanding blow the dust off with your compressor blow attachment then wipe down with a tack cloth.


You are now ready to begin the staining process. For this i used the same steps and process as SMX. Here is a pic of products i used:




My spray gun that i used has a 20 oz capacity so for the first step i used the ML Campbell microton color called cordovan i filled the sprayer cup with 10 oz of lacquer thinner and 10 oz of cordovan color for a perfect 50/50 mix. I sprayed each box and each half round 3 times with this mix, this gives you a color of a penny.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
136 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Next step after that is to use a paste wood filler i ordered from constantine's the color i ordered was red mahogany. You put some filler in a container and mix it with mineral spirits you want it to become a creamy constintency. After I mixed it i applied it to everything with a burlap cloth which i also ordered from constantines you rub the filler into the grain in a circular motion you need to press pretty hard and you can see the filler working its way into the grains of the veneer. After the filling process is complete i let everything dry overnight
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
136 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Now it is time to remove the filler for this i used very fine steel wool and gum turpentine i purchased from home depot. You apply the turpentine to the steel wool and rub the veneer AGAINST the grain then wipe down WITH the grain using the burlap cloth after this process you will see how the wood has filled very nicely and you will also notice that the venner is a bit darker than before.


After removing the filler i wiped everything down with a tack cloth.


Next we will begin the final stages of this process
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
136 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Now it is time to begin your final mix for this i used ML Campbell Red microton stain and ML Campbell Magnamax clear coat.


As i stated earlier my sprayer has a 20 oz capacity so for this step i put in exactly 15 oz's of magnamax clear coat, and 5 oz of the red stain for a 75/25% ratio.


Spray your first coat on everything with this mix and let it dry for about 45 mins to an hour, after that rub everything down with steel wool and then wipe with a tack cloth, you are now ready for the second coat.


The second coat is the exact same process 75/25 mix let dry for 45mins- hour, after that steel wool and wipe with tack cloth, time for third coat.


After you finish spraying the third coat you can end it here if you like, however i chose for a fourth coat.


So after my third coat i once again steel wooled everything followed by the tack cloth, for my fourth and final coat i did not mix any of the red stain with the clear i used clearcoat only. after it dried here is the results like i said the pictures do not do the grain or the color justice these came out really nice and smoother than glass








I think that just about covers everything if anyone has any questions please do not hesitate to ask and i will answer as best as i can.


Thanks

Frank
 
1 - 20 of 30 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top