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Yup, you can use an RGBHV switcher for component video, just use 3 of the channels instead of all 5.


Most industrial switchers use BNC connectors, you will probably need BNC/RCA adaptors, available at your local Radio Shack.


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Why 4 in 2 out? Why not 4 in 1 out. (Reason I am asking is I am making a box right now to do that and would be happy to sahre information.



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Quote:
Originally posted by cf101:
Why 4 in 2 out? Why not 4 in 1 out

If you only need 1 out, you might try a product from

Inline Inc.:

http://www.inlineinc.com/products/matrix/


They make 2-1, 4-1, 6-1 switchers both for RGBS and RGBHV.


And they do have BNC connectors, so you'll need cables that

have RCA at one end and BNC at the other, or RCA/BNC

adapters for the box side of the connections.
 

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I have a Sierra Video Systems 51C now-it is 4X1 with loop thru and RS232 remote capability: I could program serial remote via RTI T2 or replace switcher (which has mechanical selector switches) with electronic switcher and avoid serial program:easier to do in IR. I have 2 monitors I would like to independantly control-what are you building?
 

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I am looking for a switcher with 4 in, 2 out high band component video (3 connectors)with IR remote capabilities:I have seen several on ebay (eg Barco RCVDS 05) but they all seem to be set up for RGB analog: can I use that?: if I have to buy new set up for Component they are expensive.
 

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I am looking at the IN3582. It has 4 outputs compared to Component Video's three. Which ones do I use to have auto -switching component so that I may hook my HD100 and a new progressive scan DVD player to my 57" XBR RPTV with it's ONLY 1080i component input?
 

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Re: the inline in3552r switch

Can the HV of the RGBHV switch be used to carry the stereo audio output if the RGB portion is used to carry the component video signal?

Brian


Never mind, just saw this on their web site, it should work fine.

"Video / Audio Compatibility The IN3552R will also operate with low resolution NTSC / PAL / SECAM sources in the component, Y/C, or composite video formats. Due to the unit's passive design, any of the RGBHV signal paths may be used to carry video signal, sync signal, or even audio."


[This message has been edited by bmel (edited 07-01-2001).]
 

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Quote:
Originally posted by Chiph:
I am looking at the IN3582. It has 4 outputs compared to Component Video's three. Which ones do I use to have auto -switching component so that I may hook my HD100 and a new progressive scan DVD player to my 57" XBR RPTV with it's ONLY 1080i component input?
I have to report that I just this weekend got my custom

Audioquest YI2Q cables (1m RCA-to-BNC, 2m RCA-to-BNC, and

1m BNC-to-RCA). I had received my IN3582 earlier in the

week and was just waiting for the cables to try this all

out. Boy was I excited.


So I quickly disconnected my RCA-to-RCA cables and plugged

in the new Audioquest cables. The instructions don't

describe what to do with the three RGB cables and the

four connectors on the switch, but I'd previously called

tech support to get their advice.


I have a Panasonic DST50 with YPbPr output, and a Sony

S9000ES progressive DVD player with YPbPr output. I had

been told to connect the 1080i progressive device to

"input 1" and the 480p progressive device to "input 2".

Naturally, the switch doesn't have any indication on it

of which input is 1 or 2, but I made a guess (or it doesn't

really matter). I guessed that the TOP set of connectors

(next to the printing, on the "face") was input 1, but

who knows. Whatever... it doesn't really seem to matter.


Since the Green cable has the sync on it (its really RGsB

components), you plug the Green cable into the Sync

connector on the IN3582. The Red cable goes to Red

connector on the IN3582, and Blue cable goes to the Blue

connector on the IN3582. The Green connector on the IN3582

is left open as the Green cable is on the Sync connector.


Same with the outputs... Red to Red, Blue to Blue, and Green

to Sync. So you use 3 out of the 4 connectors for the three

component video cables.


You also have to plug in the 12v transformer to the IN3582,

and that's it. Good to go.


Now you can imagine my anticipation when turning things on.

First, I turned on the DVD player and sure enough the DVD

picture appeared on my TV! Then I turned off the DVD player

and turned on the STB, and sure enough the HDTV OTA picture

appeared on my TV!


IT WAS WORKING!!! LIKE MAGIC!!! IT'S A MIRACLE DEVICE!!!


With both devices on it looks like the first one in has the

switch (or I've got my 1080i and 480p inputs reversed). But

this isn't really crucial. In other words, if the DVD

player (480p) is left on and I turn on the STB (1080i), it

did not switch to the STB but left the switch toward the

DVD player. However when I then turned off the DVD player

the STB picture automatically appeared. I had thought the

1080i device was supposed to be given preference from input

1, but who knows. There's nothing in the documentation

about this.


So all that you really need to do is have one source device

on or the other on at any one time... which is how you'd do

things normally anyway. So there's really no reason to get

carried away trying to figure this out.



Bottom line: the Inline IN3582 is FANTASTIC!



It works perfectly as an automatic auto-sensing 2-1

component video switcher. And my picture is ABSOLUTELY

PERFECT!


The switch has ZERO LOSS OF SIGNAL, and ZERO INSERTION. The

picture on my Sampo is just as perfect now as it was before

I inserted the switch. No blooming, no color change, no

brightness/contrast/sharpness change... nothing. Perfect!


YOU GOTTA GET THIS ONE IF YOU NEED A 2-1 SWITCH! Just don't

forget to obtain the proper RCA-to-BNC (and vice versa)

cables. I guess you could try adapters but I wouldn't want

to chance a quality degradation. And then there's the

physical size of the adapters, and whether or not all of

the three you'd need for each input and output would be

able to sit next to each other given the size of the

switch.


Yes, Audioquest YI2Q cables aren't cheap, but they are

spectacular.


NOTE: Inline also makes 4-1 and 6-1 switches, as well as

matrix switchers (multiple outputs). Based on my experience

with my simple IN3582, I'd say that this is my company for

all future needs. Price was $245 from my local supplier,

but YMMV.
 

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I have a poor man's solution that probably not suitable for you guys. It works well for me. I spend some $15 at Radio shack for a mechanical switch. Since it is mechanical, it has unlimited bandwidth. The downside is no remote control, and possibly need a replacement after couple years when the buttons get sticky.
 

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Quote:
Originally posted by DSperber:
Bottom line: the Inline IN3582 is FANTASTIC!


YOU GOTTA GET THIS ONE IF YOU NEED A 2-1 SWITCH.
Does anybody know where this can be purchased on the internet?
 

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Dsperber,


I've been using this same device for the last 4 months and absolutely very happy with it. You can have both your STB and your 9000es on at the same time, but the 9000es will be tbe preference. To switch to the STB, you simply press the video on/off button of the 9000es. This is an excellent switcher that you won't even have to think about, I have mine mounted at the back of my rack. I use the rca/bnc adapter from Radio Shack.
 

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I must add to this report that devices like the DiSH 6000 have an active video sync signal present even when the device is off. I guess its really not off, its in standby.


I bought a 4-to-1 Extron auto-switcher so that I could hopefully auto-switch between DVD, Dish6000, Evu6000, and UM1000a. Unfortunately, the Dish6000 and Evu6000, together, are essentially not compatible with an auto-switcher. You can put either one of these in the lowest priority position, so that if any other device has been turned on, it takes precedence. But, you can't put both 6000 receivers on the switcher, since they are always active.


I did notice that the sync does go inactive if the box is turned off from the front panel and the panel light flashes (is this some sort of reset on the 6000?). That was the only time I could get the sync to go inactive.


Its possible you could X-10 control the AC to each 6000, but I'm not sure they will like having the power reset all the time.


For now, my switcher works for the DVD/UM/Dish6000, but I've got to get off my sofa to manually switch the RatShack push-button to get Evu6000 or HTPC. (HTPC was a different problem with the switcher...it wouldn't sync correctly).
 

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Quote:
Originally posted by Will7:
Dsperber,


You can have both your STB and your 9000es on at the same time, but the 9000es will be tbe preference. To switch to the STB, you simply press the video on/off button of the 9000es
Why will the 9000ES have preference (as it seems for you,

as well as for me)? This contradicts what I was told by

Inline tech support, who advised me to plug the 1080i device

into "input 1" (whichever that was, since it wasn't marked

in any way that I could find on the switch) and it would

have preference (or so I thought). Although this does

describe my real-world experience, which is like yours.


I can understand, however, how both can still be left on

and you can trigger a switch to the STB by pushing the DVD

video on/off button (i.e. green "standby mode" button on

the remote). Most likely this turns off sync from the DVD,

causing the switch to go over to the STB whose sync is

still present.


Anyway, I don't need to leave my DVD player on when I'm

not watching a DVD, so this "both devices on" problem isn't

really a problem at all for me.


But this switch is terrific... set it up, and forget it.
 

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Quote:
Originally posted by Victor C:
I have a poor man's solution that probably not suitable for you guys. It works well for me. I spend some $15 at Radio shack for a mechanical switch. Since it is mechanical, it has unlimited bandwidth. The downside is no remote control, and possibly need a replacement after couple years when the buttons get sticky.
Are you talking about the Radio Shack 15-1952 "Audio/Video

Selector"? That's the RCA 2-1 A/B-switch with three RCA

connectors for A, B, and Out (total of 9 RCA connectors).


I have one of those that I use for my computer TV card,

routing my two sat/VCR setups to my computer through RCA

a/v cables so that I can watch any TV program or VCR while

working at my computer.


I thought about using the same device for my HDTV component

video switch (yes, I realize it's manual and not electronic)

and even went out and bought another one for the job. But

then I got "cold feet", and was concerned about HDTV

bandwidth requirements (if that was a valid concern) and/or

signal loss of even the tiniest amount. But you're saying

that your experience is that there are no problems.


Oh well. The Inline IN3582 is cooler http://www.avsforum.com/ubb/biggrin.gif though much more

expensive.
 

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Quote:
Originally posted by Marty:
Does anybody know where this can be purchased on the internet?
You can find it at Ritz AV:

http://www.ritzav.com/gsa/INLINE/IN2160_IN6902.htm


List price is $325, they sell it for $260, plus shipping

and maybe tax.



I bought mine from a dealer here in Dallas (MCSI

phone 972-661-8765) for $245. But I had to pay tax as well

along with drop-shipping so it's probably sixes.


I did call a second dealer here in Dallas (Ford Audio Video)

but they wanted $290 so I hung up.
 

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DSperber:


So, you have experience with this mechanical A/B switch. I think this switch is just an extension of the cable and has no limition on bandwidth. Theoritically, all electronic switch has bandwidth limitation. For HD usage, make sure your switch has a minimum bandwidth of 40 to 50 Mhz.
 

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Quote:
Originally posted by Victor C:
DSperber:

For HD usage, make sure your switch has a minimum bandwidth of 40 to 50 Mhz.
The IN3582 has a 280mhz bandwidth.
 

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Just bought an EXTRON 2/1 RGBS SW2AR

switcher (non-auto) on e-bay for $60,List $350

but think some may come up for less. Bandwith is 250MHz.

They are made in multiple inputs up to 8, with a

variety of output formats...RBGS, RGBHS, DB15 etc.


A poster referred to the use of a Barco switcher that

would be effective. I obtained a RCVD 800 model only

to find that it would NOT operate as a stand-alone

switcher. Tech support at Barco informed me that

these units are meant to interface with Barco projectors

and utilize that for logic. If you look at the back panel

of the Barco switchers, you will see a plug labelled

"remote projector". If someone knows how the bypass this

specificity, it would be worth re-trying that unit.
 

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End of Summer www.sima.com told me their replacement working just like their sucessful SVS-4 that I have. I have had no trouble in ownership for 2 years +, so I will wait for theirs.


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Gary Seven
 

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Kind of a dumb question, but: Inline 3582 states it's specifically designed for analog video signals in RGBS format. If I'm coming from a digital cable box through a HDD-200 digital high-def box into the switch, can it handle the signal (being analog)? Or is the whole signal analog, despite the box fronts stating "digital."


Need a switcher for the same reason you all need one. One set of component inputs on my display and two sets of component inputs that need to be used.

Leslie
 
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